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I heard back from the tech guy at Baker Electronix:
Our TSDr (or our ATSDr) with a x1/3 setting should work to reduce the 24 pulse/cam-rev signal to 8 pulse/cam-rev signal. However, our module normally outputs a 0V to 12V signal and it sounds like you may need a 0V to 5V output signal to supply to the Dodge PCM/ECM. We do sell a custom version of our module with a 5V output, we refer to it as the TSDr5V or ATSDr5V. If you need the 5V version, you can purchase the standard TSDr module (with a x1/3 multiplier) or our ATSDr (Low frequency version) from our website and then email us letting us know you need the TSDr5V option or the ATSDr5V_Low option. If the output voltage is not an issue, you can just purchase our standard TSDr module (with a x1/3 multiplier) or our ATSDr with low frequency option (email us after the purchase letting us know you need the ATSDr_Low option).
A couple words of caution:
• Most camshaft sensors have some sort of break to the pulsing signal (either a long tooth or a long gap) to indicate the start of each camshaft rotation. If this is the case, that long pulse (or long pause) could potential cause some jitter to the RPM signal. There's no good way to know if this will be the case, it would depend on how severe the pulse/pause is, what RPM it is running at, our module's built in signal averaging algorithm and how much damping the vehicle's tachometer has built into it. You would simply have to try it to see if it is noticeable.
• If for any reason the Dodge system needs to "see" the actual position of the cam sensors signal our module would not pass that kind of information through. Our module tries to average the signal out so that erratic pulse like that are reduced, and our module's output is not held in phase to any actual cylinders being fired.
I had not considered the cam sensor for RPM purposes, but it sounds like they can solve the tach issue with one of their adapters. I'll give this some more thought & post as I have more info.
Through some investigation I have found out that when "crank" is selected the ecm is going to output a pulse (or frequency, a pulse is a frequency) based on the 58x crank sensor. The minimum values in HIRES/LORES are 1/1. This means for every 2 crank pulses you will get 1 tach output pulse from the ECM. The highest resolution tach output signal is 29 pulses per revolution. 58/2
The reply dealt with a Gen 4 computer with 58 tooth wheel, which has slightly different tach output options (frequency or crank; he used crank). My 1998 F-body file only has high and low settings, but a Gen 3 2001 5.3L truck file I have lists a 12V pullup as an option.
Since my swap is underway, I have been working on wiring. I have version 3 of the above guide completed and will attach it.
This includes new details on the AC. It now uses GM sensors and allows the GM PCM to control the AC. I found some GM sensors that would thread onto the Dodge fittings and had similar pressure values to the ones from the 99-02 GM trucks. This was done so the GM PCM could control the fan(s). Since I still have no engine, at this point I'm planning on using a Sanden AC compressor and will need to redo the lines to connect the Dodge evaporator and condenser.
Also added is an updated page with the necessary Dodge PCM wiring. I have finished my harness and a lot of the wires can be removed. I'm attaching a pic of the semi-final product with the connectors labeled.
I have also adapted the Dodge fuel evap system so it can be controlled by the GM PCM. It's interesting how similar the two trucks are.
I've also updated how to use the Dodge Check Engine lamp for the GM PCM w/o running a new wire to the dash. I took my dash apart and while it involves some soldering it is the best alternative for now.
Thanks. It is an ongoing work in progress. I did the dash mod last night and need to update one of the pages. The good news is when I ran power & ground I got the check engine light to come on, so my hack worked.
(For future reference) I think the trick to doing that part of it will be to pull the old bulb out of the socket, and then run one the same size but with some leads that can have small wires soldered to them. I ended up using a small bulb with tiny leads that were nearly impossible to solder in the Check Engine socket. I then soldered the wires to the contact pads for the OD Off socket.
EDIT
Here are some pics of the PCM piggyback mount and the dash Check Engine lamp soldering.
Last edited by V8 Supra Builder; 04-03-2018 at 02:48 PM.
Reason: Added pics
Thanks. It is an ongoing work in progress. I did the dash mod last night and need to update one of the pages. The good news is when I ran power & ground I got the check engine light to come on, so my hack worked.
(For future reference) I think the trick to doing that part of it will be to pull the old bulb out of the socket, and then run one the same size but with some leads that can have small wires soldered to them. I ended up using a small bulb with tiny leads that were nearly impossible to solder in the Check Engine socket. I then soldered the wires to the contact pads for the OD Off socket.
No, unlike my other builds I am not spending my time detailing a how-to since several others have already done so. I'm trying to address issues they had such as the tach not working, and others I've found such as the check engine light.
I figure this thread is as good as any for related posts.
No, unlike my other builds I am not spending my time detailing a how-to since several others have already done so. I'm trying to address issues they had such as the tach not working, and others I've found such as the check engine light.
I figure this thread is as good as any for related posts.
I'm looking to put a 2006 GTO LS2 motor and 4L60e trans in my 2004 Dakota. My question is this, If you had to do it all over again, would you still do this swap and overall... Was it worth it?
I'm looking to put a 2006 GTO LS2 motor and 4L60e trans in my 2004 Dakota. My question is this, If you had to do it all over again, would you still do this swap and overall... Was it worth it?
Yes, yes yes. I have two more RT's sitting in the back yard that have plans for LS swap on the drawing board.
And, not sure if you know I did the LS swap Durango with AWD and an LSA supercharger. I drive it almost every day.
Yes Sir I saw that on YouTube!! Effing Legendary Sir! Much respect for even attempting that and more so for making it work!
I'm looking forward to getting this project underway.. What fuel system updates do I have to do besides the Walbro 255 pump? Factory motor is the trash 3.7 V6 coming out so do I have to run new larger fuel lines also? And best I can gather the motor mounts for 3.7/4.7 are the same? I'm just gonna make my own adapter plate with 3/8 steel and grade 8 bolts to get it in there
Yes Sir I saw that on YouTube!! Effing Legendary Sir! Much respect for even attempting that and more so for making it work!
I'm looking forward to getting this project underway.. What fuel system updates do I have to do besides the Walbro 255 pump? Factory motor is the trash 3.7 V6 coming out so do I have to run new larger fuel lines also? And best I can gather the motor mounts for 3.7/4.7 are the same? I'm just gonna make my own adapter plate with 3/8 steel and grade 8 bolts to get it in there
For an LS2 that is cammed or mostly stock, a 255 Walbro (real, not knock-off), would be more than enough. On the LSADAK I used a corvette fuel pressure regulator/filter, and the stock fuel line. I have had no trouble at all on this truck with the 6.0 and LS9 cam making 450-ish crank HP? I have a fuel pressure gauge tapped at the fuel rail, and recommend this. Cheap insurance for fuel issues. Good luck!
Ok, Good to know that eases my mind alot actually. That just leaves one more thing I'm concerned about before I go ahead and start the tear down on it. It's a stock ls2 motor and will put in the GM hot cam for it and leave it be. My truck has the 8.25 rear end it is LSD and has 3.92 gears, I'm thinking of going probably 3.55(?) Thoughts? with the gears but in your experience with these builds, would you say the 8.25 is strong enough? I dont plan on beating this thing too crazy hard. Then again, everyone says that..
Ok, Good to know that eases my mind alot actually. That just leaves one more thing I'm concerned about before I go ahead and start the tear down on it. It's a stock ls2 motor and will put in the GM hot cam for it and leave it be. My truck has the 8.25 rear end it is LSD and has 3.92 gears, I'm thinking of going probably 3.55(?) Thoughts? with the gears but in your experience with these builds, would you say the 8.25 is strong enough? I dont plan on beating this thing too crazy hard. Then again, everyone says that..
D
I had 3.92 gears for about 2 years in the LSDAK, and used the 6l80 transmission. I had fantastic off of the line power but it cruised on the highway at like 2600 RPM. I swapped out to 3.55 later, and had better highway cruising, but of course gave up that super hard launch. But then, less wheelspin from a standstill also. You can always do the rear gears later, so drive it until you get used to it, and then make the decision.
Hey everyone! I want to thank the OP Geezers Garage for posting this info. I actually just completed this same swap in my 1992 Dakota. I only have the motor and trans in now, so it is not complete but I will update as I go. FYI at the end of this posting will be my YouTube channel where I will video blog the build. The channel is called Racer X Garage.
We did things a little different than and the OP I'll try to include some pics and info for those still looking to do this to a GEN 1 Dakota.
Couple pieces of info that I was not able to find within this thread.
1. Oil Pan - the pan that the OP and I used is an early 5.3 or 6.0 truck pan (1999-2006). Part number is 12579273. This one fits excellent with plenty of room and does not hang much below the cross member.
The engine I bought had a CTSV Oil pan on it, and I can 100% assure you it, nor the F-Body oil pan will not work with the Dakota.
2. Motor Stands - I found out during this project, that the engine stands that bolt to the crossmember for 1991-1996 Dakota's are all the same regardless of which engine came in the truck originally. For example, my truck came with a 2.5 4cyl originally, but the engine stands are the same as a V6 or V8 truck. I assume this is the same for 87-90 but I cannot confirm.
3. Motor Mounts- you will need to buy motor mounts for a V6 or V8 application. The 4cylinder mounts are much different.
4. Motor Placement - the GEN 1 Dakota's have the engine/transmission installed 4.5 inches offset to the passenger side. Even the rear end is offset and the tunnel for the transmission. When performing this swap, do not be alarmed when you see the motor so far over to the passenger side.
Here is mysetup:
Truck: 1992 Dakota Regular Cab Short Bed
2006 5.3
TH400 Transmission
Swap Mounts: we cut 2 1/4 in steel plates to mount to the motor. We started with a rough estimate of 4 3/4 inch wide by 7 inches long.
We then measured and laid out the diagram, drilling the top mounting holes closer to the edge than the lowers. Then we bolted them to the 5.3. We had to do some trimming of the plates to clear the bottom of the block. Once we finished that, placed/bolted the factory Dakota motor mounts into the engine stands and lowered the engine and trans down on top of the factory mounts. After this, we identified where we would need to drill bolts.
So here is where we differed from Geezers garage's install.
Passenger side: we utilized the front bottom bolt as a shared mounting point for the engine mount and plate. We then cut a portion of the rear bolt hole out of the back to also allow us to share this with the plate. We used a large washer to ensure proper capture of the motor mount. This meant that we only needed to identify and drill one hole for the passenger side mount.
Driver side: once the motor was placed and passenger side was temp mounted, we scribed around the motor mount onto the plate to identify placement. Once that was done, we were able to identify where the holes would need to be drilled. We did notice for this way, we will have to counter sink 1 or 2 of the mounting holes to avoid interference. We have not don't this yet, but I will update when we do.
Will be blogging this swap. Working on this episode now
Cut two 4 x 7 plates (I think) out of 1/4 inch thick plate steel One plate done Both plates Plate mounted. Note, in this picture it is mounted wrong (upside down) . The area with more material should be facing down towards the oil pan Passenger side motor mount. Not the notch cut for the bottom left mounting hole. We used a large washer to make sure the mount was captured we cut this easily with a hacksaw. Passenger side plate and mount installed on the motor. Driver side plate scribed out after placing it on the factory motor mount. We we will have to counter sink the front bottom plate to engine bolt hole. Aligned to identify where to drill mounting holes. Note we know we will have to counter sink the front right mounting point for the engine mount. (Counter sink from back). Motor in a bolted int place. It does sit a little to passenger side by design. Don't be alarmed, this is normal for this truck. Motor in and bolted in place Difference in oil pan sumps
I have a 52 dodge b series sitting on a 95 Dakota frame with the Dakota 4cyl and 5spd trans. I'm going to swap it soon but dont know where to start. Thought about getting a s10 frame, but if the Dakota will work then I'll just keep it. Think itll work out good without too much modifications? My email is dlabossiere18 @ gmail(dot)com. Thanks!
I have a 52 dodge b series sitting on a 95 Dakota frame with the Dakota 4cyl and 5spd trans. I'm going to swap it soon but dont know where to start. Thought about getting a s10 frame, but if the Dakota will work then I'll just keep it. Think itll work out good without too much modifications? My email is dlabossiere18 @ gmail(dot)com. Thanks!
I have a 52 dodge b series sitting on a 95 Dakota frame with the Dakota 4cyl and 5spd trans. I'm going to swap it soon but dont know where to start. Thought about getting a s10 frame, but if the Dakota will work then I'll just keep it. Think itll work out good without too much modifications? My email is dlabossiere18 @ gmail(dot)com. Thanks!
It's not the frame that matters so much, it's the available room. You have a one-off vehicle. No one can tell you details about what to do or how to fit an engine. Even going with an S-10 frame, the engine will not go back into the same spot the OE engine came from. More than likely the engine will have to go down and back. This guy does a lot of S-10 frame swaps or frame clips with LS engines. Maybe a good idea to check out his 40's and 50's era truck builds. https://www.youtube.com/c/HalfassKustoms/videos
02-13-2018, 11:10 AM
Baker Electronix adapter info 
