2003 S10 L33 5.3 Swap
#41
I've read that cooler t-stat wont let the computer go into closed loop mode giving you poor mpg's.
Maybe you could set that in a tune, to go into closed loop at a low temp.
Maybe you could set that in a tune, to go into closed loop at a low temp.
#42
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I have a scan gauge & it tells me when its in open or closed loop & it goes into closed loop at about 140 degrees water temp so thats not the problem.
These modern engines need to run at a higher temp in order to run efficently.
These modern engines need to run at a higher temp in order to run efficently.
#43
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I have always been a fan of running my motors with 165 thermostat......
I had a 185 stat in my truck & was getting around 100 miles from a full tank to 3/4 tank. The motor temp runs right around 195-200 with the 185 installed.
A couple weeks ago I installed a 165 stat & was only getting 70-74 from full to 3/4 tank. I thought it was a fluke but after severel fillups it was consistently getting about 75 miles out of the first 1/4 tank of fuel.
Last week I reinstalled the 185 stat & my mileage went back to 95-100 miles on the first 1/4 tank of fuel. I have checked it 4 times & its def getting better mpg with the hotter stat.
I average 16 mpg with the 185 stat around town & 20-21 mpg on the hwy.
I talked to a guy the other day with a 99 vette with a 5.7 & he said he gets 30 mpg... I find that hard to believe.
I would love to get better mpg. I guess a lot has to do with the tune so I may get a another pcm & have it tuned for better mpg & see what that gets me but I dont want to lose the power I have now. Any ideas ???
I had a 185 stat in my truck & was getting around 100 miles from a full tank to 3/4 tank. The motor temp runs right around 195-200 with the 185 installed.
A couple weeks ago I installed a 165 stat & was only getting 70-74 from full to 3/4 tank. I thought it was a fluke but after severel fillups it was consistently getting about 75 miles out of the first 1/4 tank of fuel.
Last week I reinstalled the 185 stat & my mileage went back to 95-100 miles on the first 1/4 tank of fuel. I have checked it 4 times & its def getting better mpg with the hotter stat.
I average 16 mpg with the 185 stat around town & 20-21 mpg on the hwy.
I talked to a guy the other day with a 99 vette with a 5.7 & he said he gets 30 mpg... I find that hard to believe.
I would love to get better mpg. I guess a lot has to do with the tune so I may get a another pcm & have it tuned for better mpg & see what that gets me but I dont want to lose the power I have now. Any ideas ???
As far as the vette getting 30mpg, it's doable....maybe not w/ in town avg figured in, but hwy trips easily. I have gotten 28-30 w/ my f-bodies, and the Vette weighs less. A 6 spd is likely required.
Who tuned your truck? An optimal tune for fuel economy shouldn't really hurt your performance...the tune is going to be more lean than a factory tune...GM tunes in some extra fuel to be extra safe. A good tune should help performance and economy. Don't forget that you are lacking in aerodynamics.
On a separate note, did you have any close calls on interference between your steering linkage and the front of your oil pan? I have a friend doing an S10 swap and I guess his inner tie rod is wantin to contact the pan...
#44
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Steering clears just fine I am using the GM H3 oil pan.
I had PCMforless do my tune & it was more towards performance. I am getting another PCM & gonna have it tuned for more MPG & see how that does.
I had PCMforless do my tune & it was more towards performance. I am getting another PCM & gonna have it tuned for more MPG & see how that does.
#52
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Did you have to do anything to make tach read correctly with the V8? I also have a 2003 XQ9 S10, and intend on doing same mod.
I think the 5.3 would make a great S10 engine and be as good or better on gas than my 4.3.
I think the 5.3 would make a great S10 engine and be as good or better on gas than my 4.3.
#55
Very well done build and a nice truck.
I'm putting an LS1 from a 2000 Formula Firebird on an 88 S10 chassis right now. The body is a 49 chevy 5 window pick up.
Anyway, Looks like I have the same headers as you have in your truck. I'm trying to install the engine close to the factory location like you did but when I have the engine in what looks like the factory location, the driver side down tube, with the 02 bung, hits the rear lower control arm mount. If I move it further forward, it will clear the rear lower control arm mount but the rear _upper_ control arm bushing/mount is in the way. It looks like the upper control arm would hit the headers right at the collector. It still has the firebird oil pan so I can move any further forward. I guess I'll have to drain it and remove it but I'm hoping you can confirm this for me. I will swap pans if it gets me where I need to be.
I saw that you are using tubular upper control arms. Is the factory upper control arm clearance issue why you changed upper control arms?
Does your driver side down tube go down through the space on the frame between the frame cross member/cradle and the rear lower control arm mount?
I'd appreciate any insight you might have.
Thank you,
I'm putting an LS1 from a 2000 Formula Firebird on an 88 S10 chassis right now. The body is a 49 chevy 5 window pick up.
Anyway, Looks like I have the same headers as you have in your truck. I'm trying to install the engine close to the factory location like you did but when I have the engine in what looks like the factory location, the driver side down tube, with the 02 bung, hits the rear lower control arm mount. If I move it further forward, it will clear the rear lower control arm mount but the rear _upper_ control arm bushing/mount is in the way. It looks like the upper control arm would hit the headers right at the collector. It still has the firebird oil pan so I can move any further forward. I guess I'll have to drain it and remove it but I'm hoping you can confirm this for me. I will swap pans if it gets me where I need to be.
I saw that you are using tubular upper control arms. Is the factory upper control arm clearance issue why you changed upper control arms?
Does your driver side down tube go down through the space on the frame between the frame cross member/cradle and the rear lower control arm mount?
I'd appreciate any insight you might have.
Thank you,
Last edited by w70442; 11-02-2013 at 01:12 AM.
#57
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Such a nice and neatly done swap...looks like it was meant to be in there !!!
So basically it's a stock rebuild ???? Did it drop a tad in the compression
since goin w/5.7 (milled .015") heads ??? Perhaps still 9.7-9.8 range. Also
curious if the front ride height remained unchanged with the aluminum motor
Any plans to drag it just to get an ET ????
WAIT JUST A MINUTE HERE SLEEPER JOE......
Anyone else take note that no cam or head pics...save for the ones on the
engine with the shorty headers blocking the exhaust ports.....GEE I wonder
what casting number they are.??? Oh wait that appears to be machined off
WTF....this guy's got some street racer moxy goin' on here....LOL
So basically it's a stock rebuild ???? Did it drop a tad in the compression
since goin w/5.7 (milled .015") heads ??? Perhaps still 9.7-9.8 range. Also
curious if the front ride height remained unchanged with the aluminum motor
Any plans to drag it just to get an ET ????
WAIT JUST A MINUTE HERE SLEEPER JOE......
Anyone else take note that no cam or head pics...save for the ones on the
engine with the shorty headers blocking the exhaust ports.....GEE I wonder
what casting number they are.??? Oh wait that appears to be machined off
WTF....this guy's got some street racer moxy goin' on here....LOL
Last edited by A.R. Shale Targa; 11-09-2013 at 04:02 PM. Reason: after further review
#58
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Such a nice and neatly done swap...looks like it was meant to be in there !!!
So basically it's a stock rebuild ???? Did it drop a tad in the compression
since goin w/5.7 (milled .015") heads ??? Perhaps still 9.7-9.8 range. Also
curious if the front ride height remained unchanged with the aluminum motor
Any plans to drag it just to get an ET ????
WAIT JUST A MINUTE HERE SLEEPER JOE......
Anyone else take note that no cam or head pics...save for the ones on the
engine with the shorty headers blocking the exhaust ports.....GEE I wonder
what casting number they are.??? Oh wait that appears to be machined off
WTF....this guy's got some street racer moxy goin' on here....LOL
So basically it's a stock rebuild ???? Did it drop a tad in the compression
since goin w/5.7 (milled .015") heads ??? Perhaps still 9.7-9.8 range. Also
curious if the front ride height remained unchanged with the aluminum motor
Any plans to drag it just to get an ET ????
WAIT JUST A MINUTE HERE SLEEPER JOE......
Anyone else take note that no cam or head pics...save for the ones on the
engine with the shorty headers blocking the exhaust ports.....GEE I wonder
what casting number they are.??? Oh wait that appears to be machined off
WTF....this guy's got some street racer moxy goin' on here....LOL
Yeah I basicly built it from scratch just replaced,rings,timing chain.oil pump,rod & head bolts,comp cams trunnion kit. It runs real good & I drive it everyday & it hasnt let me down,I have about 60,000 miles since swap was done.
Not sure on the comp but they are 853 heads. I am looking for a set of 243's to get it back where it should be as a L33 & a LS6 intake woudlnt hurt either.
Ride height stayed the same as the iron 4.3 thats the reason I went with the L33 aluminum motor.
#59
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Long story,but has been a while since I posted in this thread.
My power steering had been given me issues. I was running stock truck acc with a brand new AC Delco power steering pump & the small Dorman pulley...every once in a while I would go to make a turn & had no power steering which can be a big suprise when it was working just fine. Pump had plenty of fluid,belt is tight,etc.
Then it started whining & I could hear it at low speed like coming into my neibhorhood so I decieded to change things up & try something different.
So I bought a alt/ps bracket from LS Brackets which would use a PS pump from a late 80s Chevy truck & the fullsize LS pulley. I attributited the no power steering issue to the smaller dorman pulley which was spinning the pump faster than it should & overheating the fluid & after hearing story of other guys breaking the Dorman pulley at high rpm & punching dents in the hood I didnt want that to happen.
So I installed the LS Brackets kit & was very happy with the way it put the pump up & in close to the block & running the stock size pulley had LOTS of room between the pulley & the steering box.
After the install it was quiet again but after a few days I started getting the dreaded belt chirping at first it was just when it was cold then after a few days it started getting worse. I was using a cheap belt from Orielys so I took it back & got a Gates belt...after about a week the chirping was back again.
This time I got a Goodyear Gatorback belt that they advertise as being the "Quiet belt" well I have been driving it for a couple months now & it hasnt made a peep.
But now the powersteering works good in the morning when cold but after 10 minutes of driving it looses all power steering at idle only,works good at anything above idle.
So I took the pump back & got another one & installed it today & everything is working like it should again.
I highly recommend the LS Brackets if you are using truck acc & dont want the alt to hit the hood & the PS pulley to hit the PS box. A LOT less problems in the long run. Mileage 215,300
http://lsbrackets.com/category/ps-alternator-brackets/
My power steering had been given me issues. I was running stock truck acc with a brand new AC Delco power steering pump & the small Dorman pulley...every once in a while I would go to make a turn & had no power steering which can be a big suprise when it was working just fine. Pump had plenty of fluid,belt is tight,etc.
Then it started whining & I could hear it at low speed like coming into my neibhorhood so I decieded to change things up & try something different.
So I bought a alt/ps bracket from LS Brackets which would use a PS pump from a late 80s Chevy truck & the fullsize LS pulley. I attributited the no power steering issue to the smaller dorman pulley which was spinning the pump faster than it should & overheating the fluid & after hearing story of other guys breaking the Dorman pulley at high rpm & punching dents in the hood I didnt want that to happen.
So I installed the LS Brackets kit & was very happy with the way it put the pump up & in close to the block & running the stock size pulley had LOTS of room between the pulley & the steering box.
After the install it was quiet again but after a few days I started getting the dreaded belt chirping at first it was just when it was cold then after a few days it started getting worse. I was using a cheap belt from Orielys so I took it back & got a Gates belt...after about a week the chirping was back again.
This time I got a Goodyear Gatorback belt that they advertise as being the "Quiet belt" well I have been driving it for a couple months now & it hasnt made a peep.
But now the powersteering works good in the morning when cold but after 10 minutes of driving it looses all power steering at idle only,works good at anything above idle.
So I took the pump back & got another one & installed it today & everything is working like it should again.
I highly recommend the LS Brackets if you are using truck acc & dont want the alt to hit the hood & the PS pulley to hit the PS box. A LOT less problems in the long run. Mileage 215,300
http://lsbrackets.com/category/ps-alternator-brackets/
#60
Hello,
I want to install the 03 S-10 Cluster in my 70 Camaro with LS1.
How does the PCM communicate with Cluster? Serial wire I assume. What about Oil Pressure and Fuel Level. How did you get that to work?
thanks
Ernie
I want to install the 03 S-10 Cluster in my 70 Camaro with LS1.
How does the PCM communicate with Cluster? Serial wire I assume. What about Oil Pressure and Fuel Level. How did you get that to work?
thanks
Ernie