F body pan for A body swap ?
#1
F body pan for A body swap ?
Does the f body pan fit well in the gm a body frame ? I just picked up a 71 cutlass and already have the f body oil pan on my motor but if there is a better fitting pan I will sell mines to get what fits right. Also what mounts work good with either pan ? I have 1" setbacks that I picked up for my 78 T/A will those still work for me? Thanks
#3
This is a CTS-V pan in my 72 Olds 442. Also using 1" setback mounting plates.
According to the oil pan sticky, the f body extends 1" farther forward, so the f body pan is going to be really close to the crossmember.
According to the oil pan sticky, the f body extends 1" farther forward, so the f body pan is going to be really close to the crossmember.
#4
Looks like I may be selling my pan, it's never even had oil in it yet so it's new still other than being mounted. How much do the CTS V pans go for ?
#6
Good news is F body pans go for $200-250, CTS-V go for about $150. I got mine with dipstick and windage tray. I think the f body pans use a short windage tray, CTS-V use the long ones, same as trucks. Not sure about the dipsticks.
My build:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...442-build.html
My build:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...442-build.html
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#8
The F-body pan is a very tight fit. I tried it on mine before going to the CTS-V pan
You have about 3/8" between the front of pan to the Crossmember and about 3/8" from the Right/Passenger side head and the Firewall. Have to shoehorn it in and out.
I went to the CTS-V cause I didn't like it being so close to the crossmember, I wanted more room and air flowing between.
Here is a picture of the front and crossmember of both the F-body and CTS-V using the same mounts (early BRP style).
BC
You have about 3/8" between the front of pan to the Crossmember and about 3/8" from the Right/Passenger side head and the Firewall. Have to shoehorn it in and out.
I went to the CTS-V cause I didn't like it being so close to the crossmember, I wanted more room and air flowing between.
Here is a picture of the front and crossmember of both the F-body and CTS-V using the same mounts (early BRP style).
BC
#9
I got a new takeoff from the pro-touring board classifieds for $140.
Check the classifieds here, ebay, craigslist, etc.
And if you havn't found it, there's a sticky for A bodies. You might see if anyone squeezed an F body pan in there.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...2-gm-body.html
Check the classifieds here, ebay, craigslist, etc.
And if you havn't found it, there's a sticky for A bodies. You might see if anyone squeezed an F body pan in there.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...2-gm-body.html
#10
#11
I tried to make the fbody pan work but it would require the engine to set way too far back and getting it in and out was next to impossible.
I ended up trying the Hummer H3 pan (Gm muscle car pan) and it hangs too low. If I had it to do over I would get an aftermarket pan like the Holley or the Autocraft stamped pan. They should both have plenty of clearance without hanging so low...only downside is they are expensive.
Worth it though IMO for a good fit and it's not like it's a wear item you will have to replace (unless there is a major engine malfunction that sends hard parts through it)
I ended up trying the Hummer H3 pan (Gm muscle car pan) and it hangs too low. If I had it to do over I would get an aftermarket pan like the Holley or the Autocraft stamped pan. They should both have plenty of clearance without hanging so low...only downside is they are expensive.
Worth it though IMO for a good fit and it's not like it's a wear item you will have to replace (unless there is a major engine malfunction that sends hard parts through it)
#12
A modified F-body pan works great on the A-body. What ever you decide on be aware that many pans have issues with clearing the steering knuckles. The f-body pan doesn't have this issue or at least mine didn't.
#15
I may just try the f body pan and see how it works out, not worried about having trouble pulling it in and out. Once it's in it will be there a couple years before I can afford any upgrades.
#16
BCZEE pretty well covered it. I am running the f-body pan on my 67 but it is a verrry tight fit. For example, my 700r4 kicked the curb and I am having the pull the front clip and the engine and trans together to get it out. I am going back in with a T56 and either changing the pan or modifying the tunnel to allow trans removal by itself. Just my $0.02.
#18
Modified F-body pan.
I posted pictures of Street&Performance's modified f-body pan installed in my 72 Chevelle. My engine has no setback and is pretty much in the stock location. Biggest downside to this pan is expense.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/16661747-post29.html
Has anyone else had any steering issues with any of the pans they are using? I know from personal experience that the GM muscle pan sucks. With the S&P pan above only minor steering linkage issues compared to the GM pan.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/16661747-post29.html
Has anyone else had any steering issues with any of the pans they are using? I know from personal experience that the GM muscle pan sucks. With the S&P pan above only minor steering linkage issues compared to the GM pan.
#19
Yes, but the PN has changed from what's in the sticky. The LSA pan just has extra bosses on the side for an iol cooler.
You'll also need the pickup tube, correct O ring, windage tray, and maybe dipstick and baffle.
http://sdparts.com/details/gm-factor...parts/12631828
You'll also need the pickup tube, correct O ring, windage tray, and maybe dipstick and baffle.
http://sdparts.com/details/gm-factor...parts/12631828
Last edited by garys 68; 09-20-2012 at 07:45 AM.