mOtOrHeAd MiKe

iTrader: (8)

After cleaning up the garage I decided to make it messy again by building a driveshaft loop (out of one of those Summit universal kits) with integrated exhaust hanger locations. Funny the projects you forget about until you start to tidy up... welding 1/4" plate is so much fun with the right welder.

mOtOrHeAd MiKe

iTrader: (8)

Here is a quick comparison between the first driveshaft loop I ever bought, and the one I just built. Much more clearance with the new one near the yoke and in terms of driveshaft droop.

mOtOrHeAd MiKe

iTrader: (8)

Time to start putting the LS1 in this LS1 swap! Over the last week I have swapped a set of BTR dual valve springs (polished springs and tool steel retainers) onto the PRC Stage 1 LS2/6 (CNC'd 799 castings) heads, stabbed in a Straub trunnion kit, and (today) I got into the internals with a cam swap (CamMotion 228/234 .627"/.612" 112+3, should fit with non-milled heads and stock 5.7L MLS headgasket) and started mocking up the N-Motion single roller chain (which won't work with the TFS damper - FML another aborted idea).

I will get back to fitting parts tomorrow.

mOtOrHeAd MiKe

iTrader: (8)

Been fighting a bit of a cold lately, and felt Sunday was better spent with the girls baking and decorating cookies.

Anyway, this engine continues to fight me in one small way or another...

Started off by degreasing the sludge filled oil pan (165K miles and countless hours idling in a cop car will do that), and the front and rear covers. Then it was time to get the oil pump drive on, I left a heat gun set on high pointed at it for a while and then slid it on (melted my neoprene glove it was that hot). Then on went the oil pump centered with a SacCityCorvette Align-It tool. I used a combo of the Kent Moore and SacCityCorvette tools to get the oil pan, and front and rear covers installed - all with new gaskets and seals. Popped on the LS6 valley cover - which went on really easy given this engine is based on an LS6 block. Next the BTR SLR lifters went in with new LS2 lifter trays and bolts, I had to polish one of them up with some 2000 grit sandpaper to get it into the lifter bore - no big deal.

The fun really began when I went to put the heads on and the 11mm (.4331" diameter ) ARP studs wouldn't thread (M11x2.0) into the block without binding/galling - whereby the stock bolts go in without issue. Yes, the threads were chased (6 times per hole) and blown out (with compressed air and solvent). Measured the stock bolts (.423") and the ARP studs (.430") to find a .007" difference. The basic pitch matches in both the bolt and stud, and each measures out at 2.0 with a gauge. ARP's tech line basically said they aspire to a "higher class of bolt" (let's say a Class 3) which may be causing the problem where a regular production class threaded hole (let's say a Class 2), thus the variance in tolerance from one to the next is the root issue of the interference fit. Another possibility is the block is sitting around 10-13*C (~50-55*F) causing the tolerances to close up - but that is a bit of a stretch (bolt pun fully intended).

Thread class article:
https://www.fastenal.com/content/fed...s%20Design.pdf

Rather than mope - I just cleaned the orange sealant/thread-locker goop off the threads of a set of new GM bolts, coated them with ARP Ultralube, and torqued them down. A pretty easy process by comparison - except that I am out $200+ on the ARP studs. Using this process these bolts were good enough to hold the heads down on my Procharged LS2, and they will hold this thing together.

At this rate it is going to take a week to build this thing...

Advanced Design

I never knew about the classification for thread fit. Thanks for the share on that one. Engine is coming together nicely!

mOtOrHeAd MiKe

iTrader: (8)

Thanks, and always glad to help!

mOtOrHeAd MiKe

iTrader: (8)

Updates are overdue... this thing called Christmas got in the way. Go figure.

First up... I decided to port the LS6 intake. I couldn't think of a better way to devalue a nice speed part. Long story short the ports are now closer to 1.10" wide (up from .980" stock) to better compliment the PRC heads (1.20" wide), the throat is now a solid 75mm behind the throttle body, and blended corners and deburred what I could. After that was done I decided to re-port (is that a thing?) the throttle body as it wasn't done very when I first did it 10 years ago. So out came the carbides and 80 grit drum rolls... finished it off with some 220 wet/dry sand paper.

mOtOrHeAd MiKe

iTrader: (8)

Next up: Making things fit or finding homes for the Speed Hut gauge sensors.

I almost turned a stock coolant temp sensor into an adapter. But, snapped it when I took the tap too deep. FML. The next one was steel and already tapped for 1/8" NPT, I just had to grind down the OD and run a M12x1.5 die over it. It sucked, but worked out okay. The washer? Just a bango bolt copper washer from a brake line.

Then it was just a matter of drilling and tapping for the oil pressure gauge. Pretty cut and dry until the headers went on... FML. Time to find another solution/relocation method.

mOtOrHeAd MiKe

iTrader: (8)

Jammed in a couple of new knock sensors, and added a rear steam pipe (which will get tied into the one at the front) for cheap four corner venting. I did the same thing on our TBSS.

Then the intake was washed out in the kitchen sink (because my wife was out and I needed the deep sink and goose-neck faucet. LOL.) and set in place with some FAST intake port gaskets. Popped in some 40something lb/hr injectors (Racetronix sells them as 37s @ 3 bar) which should provide more than enough fuel for this thing.

Jammed in some TR6s gapped at .040" - because there is a nitrous tank in the back which I haven't forgotten about. For giggles I tried indexing them.

Installed the Carshop Inc adapter plates and Moroso solid mounts. Had a small interference issue on the DS near the pan rail. Nothing a little grinding couldn't fix.

Popped on the Hookers, tweaked the stock dipstick tube a hair, and everything went together very smooth. The fit and finish is really worth the extra money.

Last thing I managed to install today was the Hughes SFI flexplate with some ARP bolts (amazingly they fit!) - need something to hold up to those nitrous hits.

mOtOrHeAd MiKe

iTrader: (8)

Bonus: Wheels!

For Christmas my brother had the modified wheels stripped. Saves me a lot of work! FWIW, there is a 1.25" or 1.5" adapter behind the wheel - should fit great without those in there.

mOtOrHeAd MiKe

iTrader: (8)

If you couldn't tell in the pics the garage was turning into a pig-sty. So I spent the afternoon cleaning up... after I installed the freshly painted balancer and pinned the crank. I really appreciated the pneumatic drill I picked up before Christmas which helped make short work of the job. Added a drop of red Loctite to the pin, and set it flush with the hub (because if this ever needs to come apart I want some material to work with/weld to).

Because you never know when you might want to supercharge something.

Then I ran in the ARP balancer bolt and torqued it down. Tried torquing downward to get the 235ft/lb spec, but that lifted me off the ground. Went the other way and did a healthy deadlift to get it done.

mOtOrHeAd MiKe

iTrader: (8)

...and this is why we mock things up before attempting to install them in the car. The AC compressor bracket interfered with the PS mount and adapter plate. So a little chopping, drilling, grinding, and swearing and we have some much needed room. I opened the mount up to accept a 3/4" bolt which should work out just fine. I may or may not add another bolt to the mount/adapter, as this is the compression side of the engine it is unlikely that it will be necessary.

Also got the rest of the accessories test fitted, the steam line run (requires paint and clamps), 160* thermostat in, Turnone pulley on, and the nitrous install started.

mOtOrHeAd MiKe

iTrader: (8)

And that is pretty much it - the engine is built; except that I have to measure for and order some pushrods. The last thing I had to finish up was the nitrous kit. The goal here was to install all of the components on the intake itself (short of a few relays); just in case I need to remove it from the engine (to say install it into the car).

Unfortunately the old dishwasher I salvaged the micro-switch from didn't have a lever arm installed... so I made one and integrated it into the bracket. The WOT micro-switch is connected to a fuel pressure safety switch, which is connected to an RPM window switch - because safety first.

I would really like to set the purge up to bleed out of the unused antenna hole in the fender.

mOtOrHeAd MiKe

iTrader: (8)

Tore into the trans (out of 2002 Tahoe - go figure) and started to install some parts from Sonnax:

Performance Pack (HP-4l60E-01)
2nd and 4th Gear Super Servos (779911-03K and 77767)
2-3 Shift Valve (77754-41)

The instructions are pretty straight forward, but still leave a little bit to be desire from a clarity stand point if you have never done this before. The most I have ever done with a transmission to this point was install them, swap a converter, and change out a servo. So this was new territory for me. To help anyone along here are a bunch of photos to augment the instructions.

I disabled the PWM function of the TCC, so now it should work just like an ON/OFF switch (like an old school TCC trans).

Plus, there is a Coan 3200 stall, single disc, converter waiting to go on.

mOtOrHeAd MiKe

iTrader: (8)

Few more.

mOtOrHeAd MiKe

iTrader: (8)

Spent most of the day shoveling heavy wet snow.

But, I did manage to get the tranny pan stripped and painted. Somewhere down the line a goon threw black paint on the pan and it was flaking off at the slightest touch. I scuffed it up, grabbed some primer and some gunmetal wheel paint; but, man is it still ugly.

And I finally put on my man-pants and cut the exhaust tips. A long sawzall blade and slight touch-up with a hand-file later, and I could breathe a sigh of relief. Done. Once the engine and trans goes in I can start laying out the whole system - for some reason I love building/fitting exhaust systems.

You know you have a good wife when she runs to the transmission parts to store to pick up your order. But, then mentions how "two gaskets" and a "little thing" don't look like they are "worth $70". She's a keeper.

mOtOrHeAd MiKe

iTrader: (8)

Not a lot was accomplished but, a BIG box in the project was ticked:

The trans was buttoned up today with the Sonnax 2-3 Shift valve being the last piece. I used the Sonnax "plastic" ***** in all of the case and VB locations. I saturated the filter element with some fluid to avoid a dry start up (do the same thing with an oil change). Hopefully this thing works well for a while. Just have to top it off with some Amsoil ATL.

For reference the details on the internal tweaking of the 4L60E is documented here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ce-needed.html

OLDSMAN

This read is really an ongoing saga and I know it must be in here somewhere, but what oil pan, frame mounts, and adapter plates did you use?

mOtOrHeAd MiKe

iTrader: (8)

3 years and counting...

As of right now:
1. Factory 4th Gen F-body oil pan (completely stock);
2. Moroso SBC frame and engine mounts (clearly modified); and
3. CarShop Inc adapter plates (tweaked a bit).

I hope that helps.

We should have the engine and trans laid into the chassis in a few weeks to see if it all works together. Fingers crossed, welder ready.

mOtOrHeAd MiKe

iTrader: (8)

Speaking of jobs that require manning up, and a lot of manpower: Today I rolled the rear inner fender lips. Which is much preferred method to chopping them out to avoid cutting side walls. It also preserves the stock spot welds, and strength and integrity of the sheet metal.

It will tuck (squeeze) the 345s now.

I also mocked up the 17x11s to suit. Added a 1/8" spacer behind them to see how far out I can safely bring the wheels and still have full engagement on the studs/lugs. There is 1.5" minimum clear around the rim on the inside - and by my calculations for mounted section width I only need 1.25" to the inside and outside.

Next up: paint the hoops and mount the buns.