1980 Pontiac LeMans Station Wagon
04-22-2017, 08:40 PM
#206
This exhaust system has been one seriously exhausting undertaking. But, it is mostly done now (just need to weld the hangers on).
The biggest challenge was fitting this exhaust with cats and getting the x-pipe to cooperate. I had to section the DS front leg and kick it out, add a bunch of pipe sections, and grunt a lot. Holley got this right on their Blackheart exhaust. Speaking of Holley... I really don't think they were thinking about using full-sized cats with their headers.
I decided to put a second WBO2 bung in the x-pipe to get a balanced reading off both banks. There is some debate about how much error there is having a sensor post-cat (0.1-0.5 AFR on the gas scale) - however for the purposes of baseline tuning it is plenty accurate. I will move the sensor forward of the cat when I start doing WOT blasts.
Other than that it was just a bunch of tweaks to make sure the cats, pipes, mufflers, and tails were all even and level.
Back to tweaking the tune. I will post another idle video once I get the tune better sorted (and yes, it sounds sweet).
The biggest challenge was fitting this exhaust with cats and getting the x-pipe to cooperate. I had to section the DS front leg and kick it out, add a bunch of pipe sections, and grunt a lot. Holley got this right on their Blackheart exhaust. Speaking of Holley... I really don't think they were thinking about using full-sized cats with their headers.
I decided to put a second WBO2 bung in the x-pipe to get a balanced reading off both banks. There is some debate about how much error there is having a sensor post-cat (0.1-0.5 AFR on the gas scale) - however for the purposes of baseline tuning it is plenty accurate. I will move the sensor forward of the cat when I start doing WOT blasts.
Other than that it was just a bunch of tweaks to make sure the cats, pipes, mufflers, and tails were all even and level.
Back to tweaking the tune. I will post another idle video once I get the tune better sorted (and yes, it sounds sweet).
04-27-2017, 09:39 PM
#207
Decided not to shorten my 4" diameter shaft, and had a 3.5" made instead. When I did the final assembly of the exhaust the x-pipe needed to be moved back, so gaining some room with suspension droop is going to be advantageous.
Also built an overflow/expansion tank (started running out of space for things) and added a vacuum distribution block for the heater bypass valve (seriously the only reason I need a vacuum source in this car thanks to electronics).
Also built an overflow/expansion tank (started running out of space for things) and added a vacuum distribution block for the heater bypass valve (seriously the only reason I need a vacuum source in this car thanks to electronics).
04-29-2017, 09:09 PM
#208
It might move under its own power tomorrow. I finished up a few minor things thus far this weekend: 3" wheel studs, torquing down the front suspension, heat shielding around the gas tank, more wiring, and finally got the brakes to hold pressure (we'll see how well in the morning).
Other than that I have a few little things left to do; but most important is to fill the differential.
I know I would really like to wash it.
Other than that I have a few little things left to do; but most important is to fill the differential.
I know I would really like to wash it.
04-30-2017, 10:08 PM
#209
And done!
No, not really.
Today was just a bunch of farting around tying up loose ends... hell I even put the interior back together. We had snow today, and now lots of rain, so I could not get it outside to dink around with it - or wash it. More rain tomorrow.
But, for the first time in 3.5 years it is on the ground - and sitting at 25.5" front and 26.5" rear. Going to need to add a lot of negative camber... probably source some offset cross shafts.
Going to have to do the safety circle jerk in the meantime (lights and stuff) to make sure it is prepped for certification.
No, not really.
Today was just a bunch of farting around tying up loose ends... hell I even put the interior back together. We had snow today, and now lots of rain, so I could not get it outside to dink around with it - or wash it. More rain tomorrow.
But, for the first time in 3.5 years it is on the ground - and sitting at 25.5" front and 26.5" rear. Going to need to add a lot of negative camber... probably source some offset cross shafts.
Going to have to do the safety circle jerk in the meantime (lights and stuff) to make sure it is prepped for certification.
05-04-2017, 11:48 AM
#211
I am a horrible person.
Yesterday I robbed a bunch of rubber parts off of the other cars to continue refreshing the wagon. Many rubber door bumpers were stolen. It is going to be a rainy weekend so I doubt I am going to get to do much tuning - so I will probably just insulate the doors with some more sound deadener.
Yesterday I robbed a bunch of rubber parts off of the other cars to continue refreshing the wagon. Many rubber door bumpers were stolen. It is going to be a rainy weekend so I doubt I am going to get to do much tuning - so I will probably just insulate the doors with some more sound deadener.
05-04-2017, 11:48 AM
#212
I am a horrible person.
Yesterday I robbed a bunch of rubber parts off of the other cars to continue refreshing the wagon. Many rubber door bumpers were stolen. It is going to be a rainy weekend so I doubt I am going to get to do much tuning - so I will probably just insulate the doors with some more sound deadener.
Yesterday I robbed a bunch of rubber parts off of the other cars to continue refreshing the wagon. Many rubber door bumpers were stolen. It is going to be a rainy weekend so I doubt I am going to get to do much tuning - so I will probably just insulate the doors with some more sound deadener.
05-05-2017, 10:15 PM
#213
Alright here is the solution for the key lock-out (aka NSS)/reverse light issue with using the stock column range rod and the Hooker swap headers.
1. The bracket which mounts on the brake distribution block needs to have the ball socket moved up 1/2". I cut it along the bend and rewelded it - make sure you measure the angle first before cutting;
2. The bracket on the transmission selector switch need to be cut and moved up 1/2". Note you will need a nut that does not have an integrated washer due to the reduced threads to draw down against (and yes, you could weld the brackets together too);
3. The cross shaft which translates the movement from the shifter/transmission selector switch to the column lock-out needs to be straightened and shaped to go over the header. Guess how much clearance you need to add? That's right - 1/2"! I used a vice and a BFH to give it that sweet custom reverse banana bend;
4. The pinch nut which goes to the column rod needs to flipped to the other side of the bracket on the cross shaft. I rounded the edges off of it to reduce the risk of it binding on things; and
5. Lastly, you may find that you want to chop an inch or two off of the cross shaft that inserts into the ball socket. I took close to 2" off and ran a shorter spring. This really aided in assembly with the header in the way. You may also find that you want to chop an inch off of the bottom of the column rod - your results may vary. Measure once, cut once, weld once, measure again, and cut again.
I am running a B&M shifter and a 4L60E which may be wider at the case body location for the transmission selector switch than other GM transmissions.
1. The bracket which mounts on the brake distribution block needs to have the ball socket moved up 1/2". I cut it along the bend and rewelded it - make sure you measure the angle first before cutting;
2. The bracket on the transmission selector switch need to be cut and moved up 1/2". Note you will need a nut that does not have an integrated washer due to the reduced threads to draw down against (and yes, you could weld the brackets together too);
3. The cross shaft which translates the movement from the shifter/transmission selector switch to the column lock-out needs to be straightened and shaped to go over the header. Guess how much clearance you need to add? That's right - 1/2"! I used a vice and a BFH to give it that sweet custom reverse banana bend;
4. The pinch nut which goes to the column rod needs to flipped to the other side of the bracket on the cross shaft. I rounded the edges off of it to reduce the risk of it binding on things; and
5. Lastly, you may find that you want to chop an inch or two off of the cross shaft that inserts into the ball socket. I took close to 2" off and ran a shorter spring. This really aided in assembly with the header in the way. You may also find that you want to chop an inch off of the bottom of the column rod - your results may vary. Measure once, cut once, weld once, measure again, and cut again.
I am running a B&M shifter and a 4L60E which may be wider at the case body location for the transmission selector switch than other GM transmissions.
05-06-2017, 08:55 PM
#214
Aligned the car today. Boy is the stock stuff limited in its adjustability range. Best I could get was 3.5* caster, -1.25* camber, and 0 toe. Garbage!
Bled the brakes again... so many bubbles.
Oh, and I would say that the SFCs I built are doing their job stiffening up the car.
Bled the brakes again... so many bubbles.
Oh, and I would say that the SFCs I built are doing their job stiffening up the car.
05-07-2017, 01:16 AM
#215
TECH Senior Member
Uh-oh, looks like aftermarket suspension goodies are in your future......
05-07-2017, 12:06 PM
#217
We had a short break in the weather!
So I did a little tuning today and it is going surprisingly well, cold start was good, idle in P/N and Drive was good, putting around the 'hood was good. Only a few tweaks to the VE table were in order. Hot restart was a little lean so that is probably an OLFA matter.
The steering and suspension feels really tight - but ARGH! - it is rubbing on the fender liners because it doesn't have enough negative camber. I figure I can fix this with offset shafts shoved in some circle track arms, a stack of shims, and narrower tires (245/45R17 on a 9.5" wheel); or alternatively I can start cutting up my rare LeMans fenderliners (not a fan of that idea).
Appropriately Natasha asked what that was going to cost - I couldn't muster a response and just hung my head in shame.
So I did a little tuning today and it is going surprisingly well, cold start was good, idle in P/N and Drive was good, putting around the 'hood was good. Only a few tweaks to the VE table were in order. Hot restart was a little lean so that is probably an OLFA matter.
The steering and suspension feels really tight - but ARGH! - it is rubbing on the fender liners because it doesn't have enough negative camber. I figure I can fix this with offset shafts shoved in some circle track arms, a stack of shims, and narrower tires (245/45R17 on a 9.5" wheel); or alternatively I can start cutting up my rare LeMans fenderliners (not a fan of that idea).
Appropriately Natasha asked what that was going to cost - I couldn't muster a response and just hung my head in shame.
05-07-2017, 04:27 PM
#218
Sat down with a coffee and Google to do some thinking about those pesky fenderliners...
Felt a lot like this:
What about heat to reshape the plastic? Bingo. It is done all the time in the slammed luxury car world. An hour later I had gained some much needed space. I won't know how much until the next time I take it for a boot.
Felt a lot like this:
What about heat to reshape the plastic? Bingo. It is done all the time in the slammed luxury car world. An hour later I had gained some much needed space. I won't know how much until the next time I take it for a boot.
