5.3 s475 foxbody, with A/C and holley efi.
#201
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I had some time to build the trans cooler mounts last night. Only thing left is to cut a piece of sheetmetal to weld the brackets on to then it can be bolted in on the frame rail under the car where that big open space is underneath the rear seats.
I also got a quote for my rear end to get done, so I'll be dropping that off in the morning probably.
I also got a quote for my rear end to get done, so I'll be dropping that off in the morning probably.
#204
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Not yet. Once I get the rear of the car squared away that's my next mission. Pulling the interior out, hush matting the floor, and then I'll run all the big cables, and then my some temporary wiring for the ecu so I can fire it up.
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Build is coming along nicely. Maybe it's the angle of the pictures but on the turbo drain line it looks like the line drops down then goes back up before it goes into the pan. If that's the case you could have a problem with oil backing up in the line since there isn't much pressure there. I've always been told it has to always be sloping down till it reaches the pan.
#206
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Build is coming along nicely. Maybe it's the angle of the pictures but on the turbo drain line it looks like the line drops down then goes back up before it goes into the pan. If that's the case you could have a problem with oil backing up in the line since there isn't much pressure there. I've always been told it has to always be sloping down till it reaches the pan.
#207
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Don't have too much to report other then the rear end is still at the chassis shop, but should be done by the end of the week. I ordered a set of 15x10 weld vitesse wheels. Just the rears for right now as the rear end is narrowed so in case I have to move the car I have them.
I've also been trimming the nose for the intercooler. There isn't much left of the chin of the air damn, but I think it looks better then just removing it completely like I see most guys with 4" cores on foxes. Just have to do the driver side now, and I'll be done with that.i
I built the brackets for the trans cooler, but keep forgetting to pick up some sheet metal to mount them to.
That's about it for now!
I've also been trimming the nose for the intercooler. There isn't much left of the chin of the air damn, but I think it looks better then just removing it completely like I see most guys with 4" cores on foxes. Just have to do the driver side now, and I'll be done with that.i
I built the brackets for the trans cooler, but keep forgetting to pick up some sheet metal to mount them to.
That's about it for now!
#208
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I spent a bunch of time Thursday nite talking all the little **** that I've been meaning to do. Like remove all the old fuel, and vent lines, got the throttle cable working, installed the rear shocks, new upper and lower control arms, got the trans cooler ready to be welded in place, and even tore the dash apart to mock up my new gauge cluster.
I also to all the interior out of the back of the car, and started laying down the sound mat. It's hvac duck insulation. So it's stupid cheap ($11) a roll, and ultra lite. One roll took care of the truck area. So I'm figuring I'll have about $50 in to sound matt and a fraction of the weight of dyno mat, and hush mat. There's a huge difference in sound when tapping on the metal before and after. The battery box is also mounted.
I'll also make mention that the lokar throttle cable I got was the perfect cable to use in this application. It's ment for fbody cars. But what makes it so great is you can completely disassemble the cable and cut it to length. I cut about a foot out of mine. The other benefit is, because you can take it completely apart, you can use the factory plastic ford cable mount on the pedal since the pedal end of the cable is larger then where it goes through on the ford pedal.
As always, here's some pics.
I also to all the interior out of the back of the car, and started laying down the sound mat. It's hvac duck insulation. So it's stupid cheap ($11) a roll, and ultra lite. One roll took care of the truck area. So I'm figuring I'll have about $50 in to sound matt and a fraction of the weight of dyno mat, and hush mat. There's a huge difference in sound when tapping on the metal before and after. The battery box is also mounted.
I'll also make mention that the lokar throttle cable I got was the perfect cable to use in this application. It's ment for fbody cars. But what makes it so great is you can completely disassemble the cable and cut it to length. I cut about a foot out of mine. The other benefit is, because you can take it completely apart, you can use the factory plastic ford cable mount on the pedal since the pedal end of the cable is larger then where it goes through on the ford pedal.
As always, here's some pics.
#212
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I finished up the brakes last night. Had to source gt spindles to work with my brake kit. Other then packing the bearings, and hooking up the brake line they're ready to rock.
Found a lightly used set of mt et streets for $150 for the set. Figure that be better then letting the car sit on new tires, and then tear them up on the dyno. Had them mounted, and set them on the car. I really think they work on the car very well. Something different the the 5 spoke weld rts wheels everyone has.
<a href="http://s18.photobucket.com/user/onesfallendream/media/B3C90F69-86ED-4645-8992-7B56F22A8C54.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b128/onesfallendream/B3C90F69-86ED-4645-8992-7B56F22A8C54.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo B3C90F69-86ED-4645-8992-7B56F22A8C54.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s18.photobucket.com/user/onesfallendream/media/DBBC0ACC-DF05-411C-A84C-5BF00C15359D.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b128/onesfallendream/DBBC0ACC-DF05-411C-A84C-5BF00C15359D.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DBBC0ACC-DF05-411C-A84C-5BF00C15359D.jpg"/></a>
And still waiting on the rear end.
I picked up battery cable, lugs, and a battery switch so I'm going to start messing with that tonight. My goal is to have the main wiring done so I can at least start the dang thing. My goal is to fire it up by the end of next month.
Found a lightly used set of mt et streets for $150 for the set. Figure that be better then letting the car sit on new tires, and then tear them up on the dyno. Had them mounted, and set them on the car. I really think they work on the car very well. Something different the the 5 spoke weld rts wheels everyone has.
<a href="http://s18.photobucket.com/user/onesfallendream/media/B3C90F69-86ED-4645-8992-7B56F22A8C54.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b128/onesfallendream/B3C90F69-86ED-4645-8992-7B56F22A8C54.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo B3C90F69-86ED-4645-8992-7B56F22A8C54.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s18.photobucket.com/user/onesfallendream/media/DBBC0ACC-DF05-411C-A84C-5BF00C15359D.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b128/onesfallendream/DBBC0ACC-DF05-411C-A84C-5BF00C15359D.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DBBC0ACC-DF05-411C-A84C-5BF00C15359D.jpg"/></a>
And still waiting on the rear end.
I picked up battery cable, lugs, and a battery switch so I'm going to start messing with that tonight. My goal is to have the main wiring done so I can at least start the dang thing. My goal is to fire it up by the end of next month.
#218