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A/C question with swap

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Old 07-22-2014, 11:01 AM
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First off I'd like to say I have the ability and access to use CNC and manual machining equipment.

I'm going to be swapping a 5.3/4L60E into my dodge Dakota. Currently the truck has a 318 and A/C that works. Can I use my dodge compressor and make or modify a bracket to allow it to be used on the 5.3 or should I get the correct compressor for the 5.3? My donor engine did not come with a compressor.

I will be using a PSI harness, is there anything harness related that needs to be added if I use the compressor found on the 5.3's?

When it comes to A/C I don't know that much. I could be wrong, but from what I understand at WOT the compressor stops compressing and just free wheels???? If I use the compressor from the 318 what's controlling that function? Is it a simple pressure switch on my current set up?

Does anyone know if I will have major troubles with adapting a compressor found on the 5.3's to my factory Dodge stuff????


Suggestions/ snide remarks welcomed
Old 07-22-2014, 11:17 AM
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You can use the LS compressor and just have the hoses modified, thats gonna be much easier in the long run as opposed to designing a bracket to fit your dodge compressor. You can take your hoses and have them redone at an A/C shop, and some auto parts stores can make you new hoses from your existing fittings. Its much easier than ya think.

Mark
Old 07-22-2014, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by autocomman
You can use the LS compressor and just have the hoses modified, thats gonna be much easier in the long run as opposed to designing a bracket to fit your dodge compressor. You can take your hoses and have them redone at an A/C shop, and some auto parts stores can make you new hoses from your existing fittings. Its much easier than ya think.

Mark
that's what I was needing to hear...thanks!
Old 07-22-2014, 01:25 PM
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With some ingenuity it can be done either way. If the GM compressor won't fit your frame, you may be forced to create a bracket to relocate it or the stock unit. I've done and seen both methods, it really depends on what you have, need and how comfortable you are building stuff.

I suggest gaining access to the service manual for the Dakota so you can look at the schematics and see exactly what the AC system in that vehicle requires to run. Compare that information to the several options for various LSx engines and choose the one that fits your needs best. Once you have that information fit the engine in the chassis and see which compressor will clear best and where it can be mounted. Everything changes once the engine is test fit that first time.
Old 07-22-2014, 03:12 PM
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You've got great advice here.

1. how does the Dakota call for AC (to cycle the compressor)? Does it do this via a body control computer? Or via a simple switch panel with a thermostat? If the latter, I'd find the compressor clutch controller (12V+) and use that to trigger your own compressor clutch. You'd have a "standalone" system rather than using the GM PCM.

2. Assuming the GM compressor fits the frame, I'd use that, but you will need to make sure that both are of the same type of compressor (fixed or variable displacement). If not, you'll need to find a matching one that bolts to the GM engine (or possibly convert from variable to fixed). If you see the part # on the compressor, google it. You'll find plenty of info on its parameters and whether it is fixed or not.

3. I bought an AC hose crimping tool from Amazon for $150. It worked great. And the bulk hose and ends for the hose from www.nostalgic air.com . I used these adaptors for the Denso 10s20F compressor which came with my engine (F - stands for Fixed displacement).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LS-Swap-AC-Compressor-adapter-fittings-for-Denso-10S17F-10S20F-/281362815344?vxp=mtrNote, you need the adapter fittings unless you can reuse the stock GM fittings which attach to the compressor. In my case, I could not as the hoses were much larger (for a suburban) than in my vintage truck.

I added a basic schematic that will give you an idea of how things are routed. Not for your application, but it helped me keep fluid flow direction, etc. in mind.
Attached Thumbnails A/C question with swap-ac_schematic_upgrades_zpsf3f2c77e.jpg  
Old 07-22-2014, 03:17 PM
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BTW - this is the crimper. It worked awesome. I had a local hot rod / AC shop quote me $400 to build one new custom hose, fit a different end on an existing hose, evacuate my system and recharge.
Amazon Amazon

I bought the fittings, bulk hose, the crimper, a new receiver / drier (always replace that when servicing the system) for $250 total. The refrigerant was another $28.
I own the charging gauges / manifolds $60 from Harbor Freight
And a vacuum pump $100 from Harbor Freight
both from a different project.

I think I came out ahead!
Hope the info helps!

Doug
Old 07-22-2014, 03:27 PM
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BTW - the crimping tool has a #6 die that can also be used with 3/8 lines which you might use to build power steering hoses:
http://www.amazonsupply.com/weatherh.../dp/B0027SA8FU



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