DW SD

BTW - that is the SPAL fan. I think 14", but perhaps 16" ~ $140 from the fan man. It draws around 25 amps, so close to 400W. It kept my engine cool even in 95F weather that is with AC. And with enough air that it still cycles on and off via the PCM (though I only use one speed not PWM). I also trigger the fan with a trinary switch (AC pressure) and a parallel relay to that controlled by the PCM.

In short, it should provide plenty of cooling!

Doug

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the tips Doug.

The C6 fan mounts directly to the radiator. There are mounting tabs on the end tanks that it just bolts too. This is an aftermarket radiator, but you get the idea:



Andrew

DW SD

Do you have an aluminum radiator? If so, perhaps you could just weld on short aluminum bungs to mount it (I plan to do this with my next gen shroud when I install my new aluminum radiator)?

Or you could use the same 1/8" aluminum sheet like it did, but just use the face (not the sides) and turn the perimeter in to an adaptor flange, where the center is open to air flow. You could weld bungs to the aluminum sheet. Just 1/4" or 3/8" deep on the bungs would be sufficient to hold it. I'd use a thread locker when you are ready to mount for the long term.
Plenty of ways to do it of course!

Doug

130fe

iTrader: (14)

Andrew, I ran into the same issue (same setup you have) with with the #1 coil using the holley VC and Vette serpentine. I couldn't use the offset bracket either, I just mounted the coil with the upper bolt only and rotated the coil so it is straight instead of tilted like the others. Been working fine so far. One thing I did think of was cutting the coil offset bracket in half and only using it for the bottom mount of that particular coil.

Curious if you have thought about what radiator you are going to use for your swap?

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Chris,

Thanks for the tip on the coil mounting. I was thinking of using a C4 radiator, but I'm also considering using an inexpensive Champion direct fit aluminum radiator.

Andrew

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

I've been looking at various radiators, and I think I am going to get this one:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedw...tors,3557.html

It is 26" wide overall, and 19" high. I like the aluminum construction because I will be able to weld some mounts for the radiator directly to the tanks. I measured the fan shroud and the spacing for the mounts is right at 25", so it should work pretty well.

Andrew

DW SD

I bought almost the same one but it is tall and narrow for my '51 ford f1 L92 swap. Been too busy to install - just using original brass unit.

It's a quality piece. I think you will be happy.

PrimerDust360

I have a Panasonic in-dash 8-track that's still new-in-box for my '73 Duster. I also purchased an 8-track to cassette module. My plan is to use a cassette deck to phone adapter in that module (Android here but they make 'em for Apple products, too) Classic looks and a good theft deterrent, too if all a would be thief can see is a Waylon Jennings 8-track! (Which I'll also be able to listen to!)

PrimerDust360

Or if you had a Mopar with a flimsy bulkhead connector that liked giving you electrical nightmares on every Sunday when you were 2 hours from the nearest already-closed-for-the-evening parts store. Don't ask me how I know this.

79LS1FOX

iTrader: (11)

yeah those things are definitely dangerous, I mean who in his right mind would cut a primary 12 volt wire in half and insert an ammeter and hope nothing ever shorted out, oh wait I did just that back in the early 60's, thank god for alternators and volt meters.

kwhizz

Your manifold will be on it's way back to you on Monday..........Didn't use the other seal because it would have almost cut thru the adapters coming from both sides.....

Ken

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Ken,

You're awesome. Thank you!!!

Andrew

DW SD

Manifold is TOO cool!
Doug

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Thanks!

I am excited to get the parts back and see about making the texture of that manifold more uniform. I don't like having the machined surfaces showing where they are not needed.

Andrew

DW SD

wrinkle finish powder coat?

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Possibly. I was considering hard anodizing, but I don't know how that will work on the rough cast finish.

Andrew

Hawk465

iTrader: (10)

Where do the Holley valve covers place the coils as far as plug wire length is concerned? I know the truck wires are longer than car wires. I want to do a set of these on mine to give a cleaner look.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Here are the stock truck wires:



I don't know how much longer they are than the car ones, but at least the picture gives you a reference point.

Andrew

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

I received the package from Ken today and I couldn't be happier. If he didn't offer to machine the top for me, I probably would have lost a finger trying to do this with a drill press, and a giant hole saw...LOL



In case anyone is wondering why the spacer is needed, here is an angle that shows what's going on. The motor of the throttle body extends past the mounting surface, so it needs to be raised.



When I ordered the Hi-Ram, I thought that I also needed to order the stud kit that is recommended. However, when I received it, there was already a stud kit included. Well, lucky for me, I kept the extra stud kit, because they work perfectly to mount the throttle bodies to the intake. They are perhaps a hair long, but good enough.





Here is everything mocked up.



I am thinking that I need to take the top and the spacers and have them bead blasted to give them a cast appearance. Then either paint the intake or have it hard anodized.

Andrew

Knoxferatu

I'd mask off anything you don't want blasted, such as threads, blast with 80-100 grit aluminum oxide, degrease with acetone or MEK, and then coat with KG Gun Kote Satin Black. You can cure it in your oven. This is a very durable coating that will look a lot like Mil Spec hard coat anodizing with a film of CLP. Much easier and cheaper than having it anodized.