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I picked up a NIB Tanks Inc setup recently from a guy that decided to go a different direction with his project, and I can't find good answers to some questions I have...
- The tank came with their 400 lph pump. I have no interest in putting over 500 hp in this car, so I'm wondering if it's appropriate to run the fire hose fuel pump? Are there sacrifices like noise, reliability, amp draw, etc?
- What is the best type of fuel line and fittings? Part numbers or links would be awesome. Also pics or ideas for routing. I'm thinking of running the supply and return lines down the drivers side to match the inlet on the rail.
- The tank also came with a rollover vent. Do I need this? Pretty sure my cap is vented. Seems like it would be difficult to mount the vent high enough in a first gen to work. Also, I don't see how it hooks to the tank?
On mine, I swapped the fuel rail 180 degrees so the inlet is on the passenger side and I'm re-using most of the factory line for the supply line. I have a custom tank, so I don't need a return, but you should be able to do the same thing using the corvette filter/regulator back by the tank.
As far as the pump goes I think you can just swap it for a Walbro 255 if you have a stock or close to stock engine. For fuel lines in the past I used 3/8 brake line with F.I. rubber hoses but this last swap I used the factory type nylon 3/8 and 5/16 line with GM fittings. In order to put them together it's necessary to purchase a special tool like the one Dorman sells. I won't be going back to the brake lines. As far as routing goes stay away from heat and moving parts. Not necessary to run them on the frame, can be run down the floorboard if that's short/safe. Last, get a non vented cap and run the rollover vent. There should be a barbed fitting next to the gauge sending unit to hook to. In case of a rollover the last think you need is a fire fed by a leaking vented cap.
As far as the pump goes I think you can just swap it for a Walbro 255 if you have a stock or close to stock engine. For fuel lines in the past I used 3/8 brake line with F.I. rubber hoses but this last swap I used the factory type nylon 3/8 and 5/16 line with GM fittings. In order to put them together it's necessary to purchase a special tool like the one Dorman sells. I won't be going back to the brake lines. As far as routing goes stay away from heat and moving parts. Not necessary to run them on the frame, can be run down the floorboard if that's short/safe. Last, get a non vented cap and run the rollover vent. There should be a barbed fitting next to the gauge sending unit to hook to. In case of a rollover the last think you need is a fire fed by a leaking vented cap.
Agreed...my car has the braided stainless but I am going to swap them out in favor for the dorman nylon lines. My braided stainless are not Teflon lined and emit fuel odor in my garage.
I talked to Tanks Inc today, and they said I'm not really sacrificing anything with the big pump. I looked at the curves for it on their site, and the amp draws are higher, but not unreasonable. Probably just gonna keep it out of convenience, unless someone really scares me away.
I'm all for the rollover vent, but where do you mount it such that it is above the fill neck, and not inside the cab? I don't see a place. I've had plenty of poorly vented boat tanks spit gas on me, not interested in that. I did see how it hooks up to the tank. Forgot about the center barb fitting when I was typing up this post.
I too like the looks of the plastic line and Dorman fittings. I've read lots of keyboard jockey negative opinions on the quality of the connections, though. I want to do it right the first time. High pressure fuel leaks and headers can't be a good thing.
I didn't know you can just flip the rail around, that's good info. Thanks.
We just finished up a 67 camaro with the Tank inc tank. We mounted the roll over vent on the passenger side inside frame rail over the rear axle as high as we could get it. It's working well.
I did it much like RobM mentioned. Flipped fuel rail 180 degrees and used most of the factory style stainless 3/8" fuel line that I had installed a few years prior. I used the Corvette regulator/filter mounted on the inside of the passenger rear frame rail. I used nylon braided high pressure fuel hose for my connections from the tank to the filter regulator. I capped the vent connection on the tank and used the factory vented fuel cap. I bought a 37 degree flare tool and flared the ends of the stainless fuel line to match the 37 degree flare adapter fittings. Be careful with your filter/regulator placement, I mounted mine with no exhaust installed and then had to buy heat wrap for the exhaust pipe because it runs too close to the filter/regulator. Also if you flare the OEM or OEM style tubing, you may have to use a conical stone, to clean up the raised parting line on the tube. They were designed to seal from the OD of the tube so the parting line intrudes into the ID. If you use drawn over mandrel (DOM) tubing you will not have to do that. If you go this way and need part numbers, PM me and I will gather those numbers for you, but I went to Speedway motors for the filter regulator kit with adapter fittings and Jegs for the hose and 37 degree flare fittings.
Pics of anything fuel delivery related would be awesome.
ETA:
I'm starting to get my head around this. I'm 99% sure I actually don't have a return type rail, and I can use the Corvette regulator and a short return back by the tank. That is going to be much simpler than I was thinking.
Last edited by tracetrimble; 12-15-2015 at 11:39 AM.
I ordered the Corvette filter/regulator, and got the rail flipped around 180º. Now I'm trying to piece together the fittings I would need, and I cannot figure out how to hook it all up without converting everything to 6AN hose. I would like to go with nylon line, but I can't figure out how to get it connected to the male QD on the filter/regulator outlet, or the 1/4" NPT fittings at the tank. Any help?
Thanks for looking at it in detail. I am under the impression the Dorman 3/8" line is actually 5/16" ID? That's why I picked those fittings, but I can revise if needed. I think 3/8" is an option as well.
I talked to Tanks Inc today, and they said I'm not really sacrificing anything with the big pump. I looked at the curves for it on their site, and the amp draws are higher, but not unreasonable. Probably just gonna keep it out of convenience, unless someone really scares me away
I tried the combination of the 400 pump and the corvette fpr. They are not compatible. The pump moves so much fuel that the pressure ended up at 73 psi. I have seen others with higher psi. I ended up using a billet Holley fpr for about $150 which can be set to any pressure you want. If a smaller pump is less than that I would just change the pump.
Update... I bought all of the above fittings and line, plus these clamps. Cost for parts was $88. I have everything hooked up except the fitting to the motor, and it looks like it's going to work great. I also came up with a homebrew fitting tool, based on some posts I found here and on nastyz28.com. Super happy with the results so far.
I also picked up a 255 pump, and the 400 is for sale in the classifieds.
Pics...
Last edited by tracetrimble; 01-19-2016 at 02:49 PM.
12-14-2015, 10:24 AM
Tanks Inc Install Questions re '67 Camaro 
