5.3/T56 68 Camaro
10-25-2017, 03:19 PM
#41
Transmission So I now have a T56 trans. Basically just the gearbox and no shifter or bellhousing. Is there a kit that sells everything for a decent price? Clutch, TOB, PP, shifter, etc. If anyone has a write-up or a thread on here that would help me find the parts and what not, it would be greatly appreciated!
Last edited by seanb128; 10-25-2017 at 04:06 PM.
10-26-2017, 09:23 AM
#43
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (27)
Hey Sean,
I don't believe anyone makes a kit, but I bought a used t56 a while ago and it didn't come with a shifter and clutch master. I posted a wanted ad here and someone sold me one within a week.
Try to avoid getting a GTO bellhousing as they will work, but it limits you to use only a GTO starter. With an Fbody bellhousing you can use any LS starter.
I don't believe anyone makes a kit, but I bought a used t56 a while ago and it didn't come with a shifter and clutch master. I posted a wanted ad here and someone sold me one within a week.
Try to avoid getting a GTO bellhousing as they will work, but it limits you to use only a GTO starter. With an Fbody bellhousing you can use any LS starter.
10-26-2017, 11:21 AM
#44
Hey Sean,
I don't believe anyone makes a kit, but I bought a used t56 a while ago and it didn't come with a shifter and clutch master. I posted a wanted ad here and someone sold me one within a week.
Try to avoid getting a GTO bellhousing as they will work, but it limits you to use only a GTO starter. With an Fbody bellhousing you can use any LS starter.
I don't believe anyone makes a kit, but I bought a used t56 a while ago and it didn't come with a shifter and clutch master. I posted a wanted ad here and someone sold me one within a week.
Try to avoid getting a GTO bellhousing as they will work, but it limits you to use only a GTO starter. With an Fbody bellhousing you can use any LS starter.
10-26-2017, 12:08 PM
#45
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (27)
To replace your auto trans with a 6 speed t56 you will need Clutch assembly, clutch master cylinder, bellhousing, shifter and the wiring. Yes, you would need to wire in the reverse lockout, VSS and reverse lights. You will also need to flash the ECU to replace the auto trans with a manual.
Are you running the Holley motor mounts that are designed to work with the 302-2 pan? If not, I believe you will need to do some surgery to your transmission tunnel. If you have any questions feel free to PM me. I sent you a link to my build which I have addressed many of the problems that you are about to come across.
Are you running the Holley motor mounts that are designed to work with the 302-2 pan? If not, I believe you will need to do some surgery to your transmission tunnel. If you have any questions feel free to PM me. I sent you a link to my build which I have addressed many of the problems that you are about to come across.
10-26-2017, 12:12 PM
#46
...and you'll need to replace the flex plate with a flywheel....may also need a different input yoke on the driveshaft, may also need a different length driveshaft, may also need a different transmission mount and/or cross member - depending on tranny choice.
11-30-2017, 09:40 AM
#51
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As far as the clutch pedal hydraulics go., If I can make a suggestion....
I JUST finished building my pedal/master setup to work with the 4th gen master cylinder and I went with a heim joint end adapted onto the shortened factory rod and made a new hole in the pedal arm at the correct pivot point.....I feel like already if I could go back though I would've just used the factory style rod end and cut it down and drilled/tapped it and just used all that OE stuff.... I'm sure the pros may come after me here with torches/pitchforks but the heim joint end just seems like overkill?
I JUST finished building my pedal/master setup to work with the 4th gen master cylinder and I went with a heim joint end adapted onto the shortened factory rod and made a new hole in the pedal arm at the correct pivot point.....I feel like already if I could go back though I would've just used the factory style rod end and cut it down and drilled/tapped it and just used all that OE stuff.... I'm sure the pros may come after me here with torches/pitchforks but the heim joint end just seems like overkill?
11-30-2017, 10:42 AM
#52
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (27)
As far as the clutch pedal hydraulics go., If I can make a suggestion....
I JUST finished building my pedal/master setup to work with the 4th gen master cylinder and I went with a heim joint end adapted onto the shortened factory rod and made a new hole in the pedal arm at the correct pivot point.....I feel like already if I could go back though I would've just used the factory style rod end and cut it down and drilled/tapped it and just used all that OE stuff.... I'm sure the pros may come after me here with torches/pitchforks but the heim joint end just seems like overkill?
I JUST finished building my pedal/master setup to work with the 4th gen master cylinder and I went with a heim joint end adapted onto the shortened factory rod and made a new hole in the pedal arm at the correct pivot point.....I feel like already if I could go back though I would've just used the factory style rod end and cut it down and drilled/tapped it and just used all that OE stuff.... I'm sure the pros may come after me here with torches/pitchforks but the heim joint end just seems like overkill?
Question for you though, how heavy is your pedal? I took mine for a test drive about a month ago, and was the pedal felt much heavier than I had expected. My dad has a 2000 SS 6 speed, and his is definitely not that heavy. I'm not sure if my mystery clutch setup is an aftermarket that is more stiff, if my geometry for the pedal is off, or if I have a bad clutch master?
11-30-2017, 01:26 PM
#53
As far as the clutch pedal hydraulics go., If I can make a suggestion....
I JUST finished building my pedal/master setup to work with the 4th gen master cylinder and I went with a heim joint end adapted onto the shortened factory rod and made a new hole in the pedal arm at the correct pivot point.....I feel like already if I could go back though I would've just used the factory style rod end and cut it down and drilled/tapped it and just used all that OE stuff.... I'm sure the pros may come after me here with torches/pitchforks but the heim joint end just seems like overkill?
I JUST finished building my pedal/master setup to work with the 4th gen master cylinder and I went with a heim joint end adapted onto the shortened factory rod and made a new hole in the pedal arm at the correct pivot point.....I feel like already if I could go back though I would've just used the factory style rod end and cut it down and drilled/tapped it and just used all that OE stuff.... I'm sure the pros may come after me here with torches/pitchforks but the heim joint end just seems like overkill?
11-30-2017, 01:58 PM
#54
Was there a route you guys chose to eliminate buying pieces here and there? Seems like I can’t really find a kit that has mostly everything. I’m not sure where I can find a list of parts that I’ll need either. I know that I need a clutch kit, master cylinder, pedal setup, some wiring pigtails, bellhousing, shifter, yolk, etc.. Just makes it easier to buy it all as one or maybe 2 or 3 kits.
Thanks.
Thanks.
11-30-2017, 06:05 PM
#55
TECH Apprentice
Okay I'm jumping in on this conversation. Great build thread to OP, for those with a Tick master cylinder on their first gen F body could you please tell me what mounting plate you're using at the firewall? I'm considering using the Tick for my swap because I don't want the basic 4th gen clutch master. however, I read on their site that they will not warranty the unit if it's used in a swap. Also, I've heard of people having fitment issues with a booster installed. SO, an alternative could be using the DSE adapter along with a wilwood clutch master (P/N 260-3376). I'm just wondering what fits and works that is NOT the stock GM 4th gen piece. Thanks in advance.
Your method was almost to a "T" how I did mine as well, but the reason I had a heim joint was because I have the Tick M/C and it comes that way.
Question for you though, how heavy is your pedal? I took mine for a test drive about a month ago, and was the pedal felt much heavier than I had expected. My dad has a 2000 SS 6 speed, and his is definitely not that heavy. I'm not sure if my mystery clutch setup is an aftermarket that is more stiff, if my geometry for the pedal is off, or if I have a bad clutch master?
Question for you though, how heavy is your pedal? I took mine for a test drive about a month ago, and was the pedal felt much heavier than I had expected. My dad has a 2000 SS 6 speed, and his is definitely not that heavy. I'm not sure if my mystery clutch setup is an aftermarket that is more stiff, if my geometry for the pedal is off, or if I have a bad clutch master?
11-30-2017, 06:12 PM
#56
TECH Apprentice
Well I'm not sure about finding a "kit" per se. However, I just ordered the LUK LS7 clutch kit (04-905) comes with clutch/pressure plate/flywheel/alignment tool/pressure plate bolts, the LUK master/slave (LSC265B), and ARP flywheel to crank bolts for a good OEM clutch job. It's not meant for crazy amounts of torque but plenty of people here and on corvette forums are beating them up with basic mods and they are holding up fine. Price is unbeatable in my book, look up on Rock Auto. I'm sure if you look around or place a WTB ad here you will come up on the bellhousing. As for the master cylinder, I'm in the same boat as you right now. I was going to use the stock 4th gen piece but would rather avoid problems others report with "spirited driving" shifting into 3rd gear etc. I'm either going to go with wilwood (P/N 260-3376) or Tick if I can make it work. Anyway, good luck with your build and enjoy the journey!
Was there a route you guys chose to eliminate buying pieces here and there? Seems like I can’t really find a kit that has mostly everything. I’m not sure where I can find a list of parts that I’ll need either. I know that I need a clutch kit, master cylinder, pedal setup, some wiring pigtails, bellhousing, shifter, yolk, etc.. Just makes it easier to buy it all as one or maybe 2 or 3 kits.
Thanks.
Thanks.
11-30-2017, 09:50 PM
#57
Well I'm not sure about finding a "kit" per se. However, I just ordered the LUK LS7 clutch kit (04-905) comes with clutch/pressure plate/flywheel/alignment tool/pressure plate bolts, the LUK master/slave (LSC265B), and ARP flywheel to crank bolts for a good OEM clutch job. It's not meant for crazy amounts of torque but plenty of people here and on corvette forums are beating them up with basic mods and they are holding up fine. Price is unbeatable in my book, look up on Rock Auto. I'm sure if you look around or place a WTB ad here you will come up on the bellhousing. As for the master cylinder, I'm in the same boat as you right now. I was going to use the stock 4th gen piece but would rather avoid problems others report with "spirited driving" shifting into 3rd gear etc. I'm either going to go with wilwood (P/N 260-3376) or Tick if I can make it work. Anyway, good luck with your build and enjoy the journey!
Awesome thanks for the input. I will have to check out that Luk then.
12-01-2017, 06:22 AM
#58
Staging Lane
For the clutch hydraulics, Mcleod makes a kit that includes clutch pedal with predrilled hole, bracket, and master cylinder. I bought one for my 67 Firebird, and have not yet installed it, so can't comment how well it works.
Something to look into. Also, contact Bowler Transmission for your other needs. I've heard many positive reviews about them.
Something to look into. Also, contact Bowler Transmission for your other needs. I've heard many positive reviews about them.
12-01-2017, 10:30 AM
#59
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (27)
I used the cheapest bracket that I could find on ebay. It was powder coated and looked to be a very solid piece, however upon installation I realized that when it was bent incorrectly. Instead of being bent straight, it was bent angling towards the passenger side causing the master cylinder rod to be at a severe angle. Would have lead to a failure. I put it on a 30 ton press and flattened it, then re-bent straight outward to get a much better angle.
Make sure if you use a similar bracket that it is bent straight forward, not angling to the side. I then used a Tick master cylinder, but had to shorten roughly 1" out of it to allow for adjustablity. Works great, just troubleshooting a heavy clutch right now.
Make sure if you use a similar bracket that it is bent straight forward, not angling to the side. I then used a Tick master cylinder, but had to shorten roughly 1" out of it to allow for adjustablity. Works great, just troubleshooting a heavy clutch right now.
