jozw30

Ok, so I'm putting a 1960 Dodge D100 pickup on a 2001 s10 chassis. I'm using an LY6 and 4l80e.

Got the transdapt motor mounts and with a small notch in the crossmember, the engine and trans are sitting nice.

I have read up as much as I can on the ls/s10 swaps and haven't seen Any mention of the s10 motor being off-set to one side?

I thought I might get lucky and use the hooker cast exhaust manifolds. But I've got two issues:

1. Looks like the flange location on the left side, puts the down pipe right on the corner ear/tab of the trans bell housing? Might work if I can just remove that ear?
2. Went to hold the right side in place and it hits the upper control arm suppport bushing area. That's when I noticed how off-center my motor is.

It's more than an inch to the right.

I have lots of room for the exhaust but all of the headers I've seen point down too soon. I need something with the pipes more horizontal with the flange behind the rear exhaust port on the head......

Basically if I can find a header or manifold that willl clear this engine/trans combo for the s10 it will work with my custom setup as I don't see any clearance issues from the Dodge cab. Plus I will have flexibility with my steering linkage.

gsjimmy

I did the swap on a 2003 S10 EXT Cab w/zq8 suspension.

Since your doing basically the same swap I did except outer sheet metal and the 4L80e trans. This should work. I used a set of 1998-99 F body manifolds, this places the dumps behind the cross member. You will have to "trim to fit" This means that the ears of the manifolds get taken off *where the bolts are.

Then you will need to extend off of the bottom of the flange area and build a custom Y-pipe or plumb into a true dual system. Since the chassis is all S-10, the single exhaust may be the easier route, unless you relocated the gas tank (Blazer tank is a popular way to go)

In my case, I ran the driver's side into a 90* elbow, then under the trans, and junctioned into a "custom fabbed" Y-pipe at the pass side.

The pass side will need more of a "drop pipe" added, then a 45* elbow and do the merge of the two pipes at that point.

Another way is to do another 90* and merge into a dual to single fitting, then the cat and on out the back. I just merged everything into the stock 2.5" exhaust. eliminated the rear O2's. Only have to add the O2 on the pass side as the dr side is already set-up with a fitting tat clears the frame.

Are you using the Poly engine mounts? This will effect the exhaust as well

gsjimmy

Hade the same two issues. You can cut off the ear without an issue. As for the pass side, I was able to cut out the A.I.R. tube on the bottom of the exhaust manifold to gain 1/4 to 3/8 more clearance. The using my BFH (big friendly hammer) I gained an additional 1/4 inch on the arm by heating and bending it down at the bushing area. Do not cut this arm. Safety issue. You can squish it some, but don't get too carried away.

Remember that the stock 2.8 rubber mounts will deflect and change how the engine fits.

gsjimmy

If you don't already have the ZQ8 suspension, get it. Your increasing the weight over stock along with a taller body (heavier steel in 1960 v. 2001). This is going to increase body roll (bad thing). With the S-10 Extreme and ZQ8 equipped S-10's & Sonoma's you get a few nice upgrades. Heavier front anit-roll bar (33mm), additional anti roll bar on the rear, Bilstien shocks and polyurethane bushings. Gives a much stiffer (sporty) feel to the truck.

Can also do poly bushings in the a-arms and sway bar end links to tighten up the suspension. This will cost a few additional dollars over stock replacements, but well worth it.

Also think about the ZQ8 fast ratio steering box and a Grand Cherokee steering shaft (no more rag joint).

gsjimmy

Here is the dr side installed and a pic of the pass side

ss454327

iTrader: (10)

I'm running the BRP longtubes on mine...no issues.

jozw30

Thanks for all of the ideas guys! I will check them all out.

I've converted the front to C5 brakes and plan to use a Belltech drop kit. The truck needs to be lowered at least 5" from where it is now to look right. But I was going to wait until I got more stuff bolted on to see where it sits.

I will be replacing all of the bushings and wear parts as well.

Here's a pic of what it looks like so far. Got the rear cab mounts tack welded in place and want to wrap up the headers & trans crossmember before I go any further.