jlast

Stupid swap takes a C6 alternator (4 pin plug, 3 pin populated in the alternator, none of the terminals are labeled), came with no plug and there is NO gecm that would have been on a c6 factory, and using 04 ls1 which does not nave ecm controls for the alt. Anyone wired one of these up ?

yes i searched alot, found truck and earlier stuff

squarles67

There was an alternator write up from Pirate 4x4 that was posted the other day. I know nothing on C6 alternators but it might help.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...voltagesensing

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

Look close at the outside edge of the alternator side of the plug, I've used a couple of that type of alternator and both have the letters on then and so have all the other truck and Camaro alternators. You should see the letters PLFS

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Looping the S terminal back to the output stud defeats the whole purpose of wiring the S terminal. That is not the right way to do it. The S terminal needs to go to the main point of power distribution.

Andrew

jlast

thank you for the replies.

on the 35ohm, the 35 just regulates watt output to low enough not to burn the alt up ? i have a 6ohm 50w here, but searching sounds like it would allow to much current ?

i understand the concept of S terminal, either would "work" but yes it normally would be to the distribution point.

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

The resistor is just used excite the alternator so it will start charging same as a light bulb (dash alternator light in older cars) puts a load on it, Here is a copy and paste that explains how it works.

"Yes, the alternator light does work by a balance. When you turn on the key, 12 volts is supplied to the alternator's field windings through the idiot light. This gives an indication that the alternator's field circuit is intact, and it also provides the current to start the alternator charging. In fact, the alternator may fail to charge if that light bulb is burned out. When the engine starts and gets up to a high enough rpm for the alternator to start putting out voltage, there is a diode inside that takes some of the output voltage and featured back to the terminal that goes to the idiot light. The net result of this is that when the engine is running and up to proper rpm, the idiot light is receiving 12 volts at both ends, which means that the total voltage drop across the light is the zero volts and the light doesn't light."

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

I only run one wire, I don't run a wire from the S terminal but I will say this, It works as the diagram shows..... A heavy load will drop voltage at the alternator output just the same as it does if hooked to the distribution point. I had that argument before and was proven wrong by a guy that's been rebuilding alternators and starters longer than I have been alive lol.

jlast

Thank you i am familiar with the way it works, my concern was for the specific rating for the resistor, for the current output to not fry the alternator. Due to these not having a dash light but specifically only controlled by the ECU.

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

I just wired a bulb inline under the hood but I'm running a Holley system so it will warn me if voltage drops. A bulb like this should last for years though.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

470ohm sounds right...

Holley sells a pigtail with the resistor already installed.

Andrew

jlast

Thank you for the input and help. I have not ran into the 35ohm 10 watt rating on the resistor, so i was curious if the circuit requirements in the newer c6 alternator required it. No biggie i ordered it all and will figure out which works, and

560ohm 1/2 watt speced by holley

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

I made this picture a few years ago, and am still using the same setup now.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

I am splitting hairs here, but the plug on the alternator is not a Weather pack. It is a MetriPac 150 series. IN case anyone wants to add terminals to that plug...

Andrew

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

The CS series alternators have internal voltage sensing in the event that the S terminal isn't connected externally. As Andrew mentioned, it should be connected to the power distribution block, but it isn't absolutely necessary.

Holley's 560 ohm resistor suggests that the L terminal just needs to see some voltage, and isn't terribly picky. For example, a 50 ohm resistor is equivalent to a 4-watt bulb (such as PN 194) at 14 volts.

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

I made a couple diagrams when researching the wiring for a swap,

always happy to share