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Well sorry for no updates. But I got my Flange, piping kit, and my Holley alternator pigtail.
Got the Holley pigtail on, swapped alternators and wired to a switched 12v wire. Worked like a champ.
I got my turbo collector and merges welded up. First time ever cutting pipe like this. Used a portaband. I think it came out pretty good. I'll weld the 3" to the merge when I get the turbo placed on the car. I want to be able to move the merges around clockwise or counterclockwise if I need to. I will cut the merge and belt sand the bottom flat later.
Squared up the 3" pipe as much as I could. I will take a die grinder to the inside edge to smooth it out a little more where I couldn't get it perfect. That way it doesn't heat up and crack later.
VS Racing billet 78/75 next to a fifth of Jim beam for reference.
Don't laugh at my welds, I'm no pro, but I have some good penetration that I can tell from the back side of the flange and piping judging by the heat marks.
Well, Plans are changing yet again.... the car is going auto. I love the T56, but it is going to take too much effort to get it to last at the power levels I want.
Picked up a 2001 2wd 4l80e with 79k on it. Driveshaft to flexplate for $250 bucks. Going to keep my eye out for a converter, thinking about a 3100-3200 stall.
Also possibly picking up a 32x12x3" Intercooler and a 3" Intercooler piping kit. Any disadvantage or advantages to going 3" over the 2.5" Piping?
Going to keep driving the car here and there till November comes along. Ill keep buying parts and doing what i can till then. Seemed fitting to tear the car apart one year after it all started lol.
Well, Plans are changing yet again.... the car is going auto. I love the T56, but it is going to take too much effort to get it to last at the power levels I want.
Picked up a 2001 2wd 4l80e with 79k on it. Driveshaft to flexplate for $250 bucks. Going to keep my eye out for a converter, thinking about a 3100-3200 stall.
Also possibly picking up a 32x12x3" Intercooler and a 3" Intercooler piping kit. Any disadvantage or advantages to going 3" over the 2.5" Piping?
Going to keep driving the car here and there till November comes along. Ill keep buying parts and doing what i can till then. Seemed fitting to tear the car apart one year after it all started lol.
I love a stick car but the t56s are just too damn much. The amount you sell that for with the flywheel and clutch vs a 4l80e with a good converter you'll probably make money. I like it. As far as your stall I think you're supposed to match it to whatever your cam's powerband is. Not sure if you have a cam yet but if you do I'd talk to whoever your getting the converter from and tell them what you have they can probably recommend something. I went 3" on my intercooler but that's just because the kit I bought was dirt cheap. From what I've read 2.5" has supported up to at least 1000hp so there really is no benefit as far as I'm aware. I'm sure other guys can chime in. I'm excited to see what kind of a monster you make this thing.
I love a stick car but the t56s are just too damn much. The amount you sell that for with the flywheel and clutch vs a 4l80e with a good converter you'll probably make money. I like it. As far as your stall I think you're supposed to match it to whatever your cam's powerband is. Not sure if you have a cam yet but if you do I'd talk to whoever your getting the converter from and tell them what you have they can probably recommend something. I went 3" on my intercooler but that's just because the kit I bought was dirt cheap. From what I've read 2.5" has supported up to at least 1000hp so there really is no benefit as far as I'm aware. I'm sure other guys can chime in. I'm excited to see what kind of a monster you make this thing.
Funny enough i am keeping my T56 just in case i get a wild hair up my *** to LS Swap the vette lol. The converter is what a local speed shop recommended me for my 6.0 and turbo choice as well as a stage 2 turbo cam from any manufacturer. He said its near impossible to get the stall correct without engine dynoing prior to getting it.
Funny enough i am keeping my T56 just in case i get a wild hair up my *** to LS Swap the vette lol. The converter is what a local speed shop recommended me for my 6.0 and turbo choice as well as a stage 2 turbo cam from any manufacturer. He said its near impossible to get the stall correct without engine dynoing prior to getting it.
Perfect that's gonna be wicked then! If you keep the t56 I think you may have to get to ls swapping that vette now! :-) I await the thread haha.
Perfect that's gonna be wicked then! If you keep the t56 I think you may have to get to ls swapping that vette now! :-) I await the thread haha.
I want to so bad, just dont want to cut up such a clean vette lol.
Found a deal on an 32x12x3" Intercooler and 3" piping kit for $120 bucks so i snagged that up. Also found a deal on Twin 40mm JGS wastegates brand new, will the twin 40mm's be too much? Was going to do a single at the merge, but this way i can make sure i dont overboost or spike if the single goes bad. What do you guys thinnk?
I want to so bad, just dont want to cut up such a clean vette lol.
Found a deal on an 32x12x3" Intercooler and 3" piping kit for $120 bucks so i snagged that up. Also found a deal on Twin 40mm JGS wastegates brand new, will the twin 40mm's be too much? Was going to do a single at the merge, but this way i can make sure i dont overboost or spike if the single goes bad. What do you guys thinnk?
I think either way would be fine. I have twin 38's just because of the way I piped it. If I was going to do it again I would do 1 single after they merge for simplicity. 1 of anything rather than 2 is easier in my opinion, less to go wrong. Overboost with a single if it's set up right with the right gate shouldn't be an issue. I think that's the same IC kit that I have. Works great so far no complaints.
Last drive N/A, took it to work. I love this hood, need to get the car or just the hood painted over the winter. I think i want to paint the car Stealth Gray from the New Focus RS.
The new to me 4l80E! Didnt realize how heavy and big this thing is compared to the t56! lol
Started to mock-up my turbo placement. Used some 3/8" solid steel rod and some steel tube spacers to mount the turbo. I think it turned out alright!
Also decided to ditch the passenger side using a truck manifold (wanted to keep sway bar) so I used a c6 manifold. I angled the v band a bit because i messed up my initial angle on the pipe attached to it header. It clears the k-Member and the sway bar!
I started to make some pie cuts for the transition into the merge, I made the angle radius to big, so i need to make some smaller pies to be make the turn a little more tighter. Its going to be a lot more welding and fabrication time, but in the end it will be worth it. If anyone wants to learn how to do pie cuts, i highly suggest checking out The Fabrication Series channel. His videos are truly the best ones i could find.
I think my welds are starting to get a little better. I need to figure out how to continue all the way around the pipe. I tack it on both sides then split the weld in half, i wish it went full 360.
I ordered some more v-bands as i have now used two on passenger side alone. Ill be able to remove each bank from the merge separately. I need to figure out still if i want to have dual wastegates or just run a big single. I dont know if i have enough room for a big single with how the turbo collector is placed? My plan is to get everything all fabricated for the hot and cold side then rip the radiator support off and start making it removable. After that it should make removing the engine/trans setup a breeze if i should ever have to. I am probably going to use a connector to make the wires that run through the support able to split in half. If i can keep from removing the body harness every time i take the engine out that would be awesome lol.
Any new edge guys run their down pipe through the exhaust?
Last drive N/A, took it to work. I love this hood, need to get the car or just the hood painted over the winter. I think i want to paint the car Stealth Gray from the New Focus RS.
The new to me 4l80E! Didnt realize how heavy and big this thing is compared to the t56! lol
Started to mock-up my turbo placement. Used some 3/8" solid steel rod and some steel tube spacers to mount the turbo. I think it turned out alright!
Also decided to ditch the passenger side using a truck manifold (wanted to keep sway bar) so I used a c6 manifold. I angled the v band a bit because i messed up my initial angle on the pipe attached to it header. It clears the k-Member and the sway bar!
I started to make some pie cuts for the transition into the merge, I made the angle radius to big, so i need to make some smaller pies to be make the turn a little more tighter. Its going to be a lot more welding and fabrication time, but in the end it will be worth it. If anyone wants to learn how to do pie cuts, i highly suggest checking out The Fabrication Series channel. His videos are truly the best ones i could find.
I think my welds are starting to get a little better. I need to figure out how to continue all the way around the pipe. I tack it on both sides then split the weld in half, i wish it went full 360.
I ordered some more v-bands as i have now used two on passenger side alone. Ill be able to remove each bank from the merge separately. I need to figure out still if i want to have dual wastegates or just run a big single. I dont know if i have enough room for a big single with how the turbo collector is placed? My plan is to get everything all fabricated for the hot and cold side then rip the radiator support off and start making it removable. After that it should make removing the engine/trans setup a breeze if i should ever have to. I am probably going to use a connector to make the wires that run through the support able to split in half. If i can keep from removing the body harness every time i take the engine out that would be awesome lol.
Any new edge guys run their down pipe through the exhaust?
I'm not a big cowl hood guy but something about the way it looks in that pic makes me think about reconsidering. I really like that hood on your car. I had all my hotside and coldside done before I figured out my wastegate setup it helped a lot because I ran out of real estate pretty quick! I used my truck manifolds and still kept my sway bar just cut and angled it a bit different than yours. As long as results yield choo choo noises who cares haha. If I had a GT car originally I probably would've kept the exhaust and ran the turbo into it at the end of the H-pipe. I didn't though and I don't have a tubular K-member so I went down against the firewall passenger side. Pretty tight but I made it. Side exit exhaust after the passenger door. I'm not a good example. Looking good though and nice on the welds. Any problem with the V-bands warping? Everything I tried I always ended up with a little bit.
I'm not a big cowl hood guy but something about the way it looks in that pic makes me think about reconsidering. I really like that hood on your car. I had all my hotside and coldside done before I figured out my wastegate setup it helped a lot because I ran out of real estate pretty quick! I used my truck manifolds and still kept my sway bar just cut and angled it a bit different than yours. As long as results yield choo choo noises who cares haha. If I had a GT car originally I probably would've kept the exhaust and ran the turbo into it at the end of the H-pipe. I didn't though and I don't have a tubular K-member so I went down against the firewall passenger side. Pretty tight but I made it. Side exit exhaust after the passenger door. I'm not a good example. Looking good though and nice on the welds. Any problem with the V-bands warping? Everything I tried I always ended up with a little bit.
I thought it was too big at first, but man with the low look of the car and the bumper it just fits! Yeah i cut the truck manifold wrong the first cut and couldnt use it lol. I put a strait edge on my v band and as far as i could tell it doesnt have any warpage. I did however let it cool down on a perfectly flat surface (1/2" glass pane i got from work).
Started mocking up the inter cooler as i didn't have funds to do much else with the car at the moment. It started well.... everything looks nice.
Then I started looking how to fit the 3" intercooler piping. And realizing i wish i could make the motor easier to slide out if i had to... two birds one stone. This way i can move radiator up as far as possible and remove the engine through the front lol. I have some steel tubing coming in this week. Going to weld a plate on the sides and make it bolted. Will use some tubing to support the intercooler as well.
With a little extra time, i decided to finally tackle all of the stock ford wiring on the passenger side and above the radiator. I was worried about all that was tangled in that mess, but turns out you only keep 3 wires on the passenger side, and 2 wires on the radiator support. Should make for a much much cleaner appearance, I also deleted the CCRM in the process.
Pass side turn signal is in that mess... only connectors you keep. These are plugged into the connectors underneath the PCM in the car.
Only wires that you need to keep that go over the radiator support. I chose to cut and heat shrink the ends of the wires i didnt need. I just didnt want to trace back to the dash harness connector and fuse box. It will be protected underneath the battery tray so i am not concerned,
Speaking of no money, now i really have no money, Happened to be on facebook marketplace at the right time last night. These popped up for 1200 bucks, 7 months old, came with lugs and caps, needs new rear tires. 17x5/15x10. They were on there for 35 mins and have 42 comments. I just so happened to have cash and lived fairly close to the guy. Went and picked them up for $1000
Earlier this month i also bought a set of ID1000's, and a Tial 44mm Wastgate. Really only couple of things i can think of that i still need to buy to keep pushing is fuel pumps, BOV, oil feed/return for turbo, and a timing cover to either weld or have it already done to have the oil drain into.
Earlier this month i also bought a set of ID1000's, and a Tial 44mm Wastgate. Really only couple of things i can think of that i still need to buy to keep pushing is fuel pumps, BOV, oil feed/return for turbo, and a timing cover to either weld or have it already done to have the oil drain into.[/QUOTE
I was going to go the timing cover route but I had pretty limited space up front to run the line there. After almost biting the bullet I realized it was a real interference with belt routing and if I did it I'd end up having to remove the oil drain to change a belt. No way no how haha. I ended up with just a barbed fitting and tapped the oil pan. Works mint and it kept it away from the front of my motor... and it was like 3 bucks for the fitting cant beat it.
Finally got around to figuring out how to notch my pipe for the cross bar. I used this website, it allows you to print off a template. I taped it to the pipe and marked it with a marker then took a grinder to it.
After all that, i tried to test my radiator.. wouldnt you know, it didnt fit between the metal plates. Oh well, lesson learned, i think it would have look goofy if i made the cuts another 1" on both side. Time to hunt for a 26-28" W x 18-19" T radiator.
Anyone have their stock v6 or GT radiators they can measure for me?
You thread and tapped the oil pan or put a bulkhead fitting?
I swore I replied to this. Guess I imagined it haha. I thread and tapped mine. Lots of grease and take your time. Or if you have the ability to drop the pan that is best.
I have a GT and a v6 radiator. I can try to get some measurements for you soon.
Things are super slow here lately, I guess its update time.
Wrapped up my hot-side for the mostly completed with the exception of the downpipe. I bought some DEI headerwrap just need to find time to wrap the stuff. Got my Tial Wastegat on, not the prettiest welds but she holds pressure.
Got my new radiator mocked, just need to create some tabs to hold it in. Intercooler piping all mocked up, i held it pretty tight so that I am able to retain the fog-lights and bezels.
RobertD came and picked up the rear end when he came to pick up the black interior for his car. He dropped it off at Tin Soilders up by him. They welded 9" ends on it, braced, straightened, welded the tubes and welded the Anti roll bar tabs on for me. Im ordering a axle kit from Strange next week, going 35 spline axles and using a spool. They are gonna set it all up for me. Pretty stoked about this rear end!
Had the welds on the car and pushed it outside with the body panels haphazardly attached. These wheels compliment the color so well!
Redoing the harness to add a couple of items (IAT, new fuel injector clips, 4l80e connector, and also to feed it into the car at a different location) so i had to order a bunch of things. I am going to mount the new fuse/relay panel inside the glovebox. I didnt like having to rip the fender off to get to burnt fuses.
Hoping to order my LJMS Stage 1 Twin Turbo cam here in the next couple of weeks, John recommended it for my manual so thats what i am going to do. Oh yeah! I am keeping the manual, i verified it was built with all the upgraded goodies inside so i went and ordered a Mcleod RXT Twin disk so that should hold me off for a while.
Well I ordered my Lil John Stage 1 Twin Turbo cam during the 15% off ebay sale. Got it for 330 out the door!
When that comes ill be pulling motor apart, should i go ahead and gap the rings or let em eat?
I guess that is gonna depend on how hard your going to push the boost and what fuel your going to use. Actually I guess it depends on how much of the motor your pulling apart too. If you're pulling everything apart and putting in new bearings I'd just gap the rings. If not, me personally I could go either way on it. Gonna have to be your call based on how much your gonna abuse this thing. Some people get lucky and never bust a ring land, some don't. I can also add if this is all gen 3 stuff, you might be at the limit of the rods before the rings would ever give you a problem. Looking good though. These builds just keep making me wish I had a garage haha.
Well i finally got around to tearing the Gen 4 down the other night. Everything looks good inside, the cam bearings were questionable but after looking at the 6.0 it has the same wear. I went ahead and ordered LS9 head gaskets, ARP head bolts, new rear and front crank seals and some other odds and ends.
I plan on taking the F-Body pan and taping it for the oil drain line for the turbo, I met the guy for the new RXT 1200 clutch on Tuesday so i have everything i really need with the exception of some small **** to finish the fuel side up.
The axle package should be due to Tin Soldier Race-cars anytime now, they should be wrapped up with setting the rear end up by end of the month. I will probably be stripping the wiring harness that RobertD gave me this weekend to start making the new one. I love messing with these harnesses, its a little soothing for me honestly.
10-05-2018, 12:32 PM
