Jarhead's 1965 F85 with LS3 swap
01-07-2019, 04:28 PM
#161
Three pictures taken today. The first two are of some 4 1/2" stainless round tubing being made into oval tubing to better fit under the Cutlass. Much thicker than exhaust tubing at almost .125 it takes a bit of force to oval them without crushing them. As you can see we used the tubing bender to flatten sections of the tubing. That piece on the ground is half way done. As you can see one side is more pointed than the other. So we will run them through again with the other side down and the oval should be pretty equal.
These oval tubing pieces are going to stiffen the chassis, hold several more body mounts, hold the transmission mount AND the exhaust will go through them back to the cross brace in the back and from there back to 3 inch stainless exhaust kicking up over the axel and on out the back.
I tried some different square and rectangular stainless tubing but it did not fit like I wanted and cost over $450. So Rick, the ever resourceful scrounger goes out to the metal rack out back and produces this tubing. A friend built a new house and cut down his old volleyball nets, these were the poles. BTW they are seamless tubing, not welded.
The other picture is my latest score a 2013 6 liter out of a Chevy 2500. I got good news today when I went over to pay for the core at the dealership. Turns out to be $400, not $600 like I thought. Such a deal! I bought $50 of BBQ and took it to the shop for lunch.
As we get back on the chassis work I think you will finally see how the PWTBs fit into the entire chassis to strengthen the chassis and to slick up the underside.
Jarhead
01-08-2019, 04:06 PM
#162
I thought you might enjoy seeing this 37 Pontiac sedan. Built in this shop from a nice stocker to a really nice ride. Front and rear suspension upgrades (4 link and coil overs and a Mustang type from setup. Has a 455 Pontiac (of course) with a 700R4 and dual quads. Gets around 17MPG on road trips and it has been on some long runs all over the USA. Now having a Vintage Air system installed, Rick is a dealer for Chizenhall who we have known since he and his brother Gordon were college kids hanging out with the San Marcos Texas rodders 50 years ago.
A note on the oval tubing, started 4.5 inch and down to just over 3.25 and I am sure we can get it down to around 3 inch thick which is target height.
Jarhead
01-16-2019, 04:47 PM
#163
Pictures taken today of the PWTB being fitted under the passenger side. The other picture is of a Moser A car 9 inch housing that I am working on for a friend on here with a 65 Cutlass.
Notice the bright aluminum dog bone on the rear. That is used to depict pinion center, pin location and exact axle lengths when shortening a rear. This rear is for a 68-72 and is 61 inches wide from axle flange to flange with Torino ends and drum brakes. The housing itself is 56" wide plus the 2X 2.5" offset with Torino ends gives 61.
I am going to narrow it an inch per side and set it up for 98-02 Camaro discs just like my Cutlass has. The Strange axle set for a Camaro that I bought on here will furnish one of the axles and brake backing plates, it is exactly the right length.
I will get some proper lighting set up tomorrow and take some more pictures.
Jarhead
Last edited by jarheadl34; 01-18-2019 at 08:17 AM.
01-17-2019, 05:00 PM
#164
Some pictures taken of the floor cuts to allow the oval frame/exhaust tubing to fit under the car and not hang any lower than the frame rails. The rear floor pans are the lowest spot on the floor pan and the only place we had to cut the floor. We did have to notch both body braces and "move" some spots a bit with a hammer. Also the T400 case is now in place and you can see that there is plenty of clearance.
Jarhead
01-17-2019, 05:33 PM
#165
Pictures of the 9 inch housing, the dog bone and how to measure axles accurately. Note the tape on the dog bone showing 26.25" that is to the bearing outside. Then see the axle with same measurement showing that the dog bone works. Such a deal!
Jarhead
01-18-2019, 05:17 PM
#166
Rick using the plasma torch to trim out some floor board material for the driver side frame/PWTB. Second picture showing the two oval frame members where they will be welded in. The bottom is exactly the same height as the frame rails. Diagonal bracing will tie into the boxed area of the frame rails. The transmission mount will be short,bridging between the two oval frame rails and will also help stiffen the entire chassis. There will also be some more tie togethers farther back, including a drive shaft safety loopand a rear loop that will also be another body mount. Floor board repairs and strengthening and adding more body mounts will follow soon as we continue to pick at my car between other real jobs at the shop.
Jarhead
PS That is a 1939 Chevy panel wagon behind my car. Chevelle front clip with tall spindles, tubular a arms 1LE Camaro brakes. Roller cam Chevy 350 with 5 speed and 12 bolt 3.73 chevelle rear end.
Last edited by jarheadl34; 01-20-2019 at 08:17 AM.
11-25-2020, 07:38 AM
#167
Teching In
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Dash template for the 65 Cutlass 
11-25-2020, 09:22 AM
#168
Been a long time since I posted here about the Cutlass project.
It just so happens that I have just given the shop guys the go ahead to get back on the Cutlass two days ago!
I had them do some work on my 1970 Monte Carlo and put the F85 back in its box to rest.
The Monte is pretty much done so back to the F85.
Currently my wife and I are in Sonoma and will not return to our Texas home until next fall.
The Cutlass is near Austin Texas so I cannot make a copy of the dash insert right now but possibly I can get you a copy.
I sent SLWRDE one for his Cutlass and he might be able to trace you a copy.
If not I will have Rick trace a copy and get it to you that way.
I am seriously thinking of putting fuel injection back on the LS3 instead of using the carb setup.
A friend has a 1965 Mustang straight axle gasser type with 6.0 and 4 speed.
Started out with Performer RPM and Holley using MSD box.
Then changed to LY6 type truck manifold with cable operated throttle and the car runs so much better.
I will update as they get back to work on the project.
Jarhead
It just so happens that I have just given the shop guys the go ahead to get back on the Cutlass two days ago!
I had them do some work on my 1970 Monte Carlo and put the F85 back in its box to rest.
The Monte is pretty much done so back to the F85.
Currently my wife and I are in Sonoma and will not return to our Texas home until next fall.
The Cutlass is near Austin Texas so I cannot make a copy of the dash insert right now but possibly I can get you a copy.
I sent SLWRDE one for his Cutlass and he might be able to trace you a copy.
If not I will have Rick trace a copy and get it to you that way.
I am seriously thinking of putting fuel injection back on the LS3 instead of using the carb setup.
A friend has a 1965 Mustang straight axle gasser type with 6.0 and 4 speed.
Started out with Performer RPM and Holley using MSD box.
Then changed to LY6 type truck manifold with cable operated throttle and the car runs so much better.
I will update as they get back to work on the project.
Jarhead
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123pugsy (11-25-2020)
11-25-2020, 09:52 AM
#169
Teching In
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 22
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Been a long time since I posted here about the Cutlass project.
It just so happens that I have just given the shop guys the go ahead to get back on the Cutlass two days ago!
I had them do some work on my 1970 Monte Carlo and put the F85 back in its box to rest.
The Monte is pretty much done so back to the F85.
Currently my wife and I are in Sonoma and will not return to our Texas home until next fall.
The Cutlass is near Austin Texas so I cannot make a copy of the dash insert right now but possibly I can get you a copy.
I sent SLWRDE one for his Cutlass and he might be able to trace you a copy.
If not I will have Rick trace a copy and get it to you that way.
I am seriously thinking of putting fuel injection back on the LS3 instead of using the carb setup.
A friend has a 1965 Mustang straight axle gasser type with 6.0 and 4 speed.
Started out with Performer RPM and Holley using MSD box.
Then changed to LY6 type truck manifold with cable operated throttle and the car runs so much better.
I will update as they get back to work on the project.
Jarhead
It just so happens that I have just given the shop guys the go ahead to get back on the Cutlass two days ago!
I had them do some work on my 1970 Monte Carlo and put the F85 back in its box to rest.
The Monte is pretty much done so back to the F85.
Currently my wife and I are in Sonoma and will not return to our Texas home until next fall.
The Cutlass is near Austin Texas so I cannot make a copy of the dash insert right now but possibly I can get you a copy.
I sent SLWRDE one for his Cutlass and he might be able to trace you a copy.
If not I will have Rick trace a copy and get it to you that way.
I am seriously thinking of putting fuel injection back on the LS3 instead of using the carb setup.
A friend has a 1965 Mustang straight axle gasser type with 6.0 and 4 speed.
Started out with Performer RPM and Holley using MSD box.
Then changed to LY6 type truck manifold with cable operated throttle and the car runs so much better.
I will update as they get back to work on the project.
Jarhead
Thank you for the reply. I’m in the DFW area so it’s just a quick drive for me. I also get my 65 cutlass parts in Austin as well. I have a LM7 that I will install along with a T56 6 speed. I know a guy selling a LS3 but not sure if I want to pull the trigger on it. I’ve already had the frame powder coated so I just need to start the assembly of parts. I’m sure I’ll make a thread once I get knee deep into the build. Be safe.
Fuel injection would be the way to go if you plan on driving a lot.
11-25-2020, 02:07 PM
#170
Jarhead,
Glad to see you posting again. I was wondering where ya been.
Glad to see you posting again. I was wondering where ya been.
11-25-2020, 11:44 PM
#171
Launching!
11-26-2020, 10:18 AM
#172
I plan to use a Powerglide that I have owned for years. I had it in a TR6 350SBC and it worked well.
The glide does not use a brake, just a converter and foot brake.
I had planned to use manual valve body T400 but I used it for drag race car project.
A glide on the street with 3.89 gears and around 500 horses or so should be a fun ride.
The tranny mount will have multiple holes so that other transmissions will fit.
Besides the glide, we will have it also fit a T400 and 4L80E.
Nice to see that a few still recall this very long in the building project.
Happy Thanksgiving.
Jarhead
Lima 3/4 1967-68.
The glide does not use a brake, just a converter and foot brake.
I had planned to use manual valve body T400 but I used it for drag race car project.
A glide on the street with 3.89 gears and around 500 horses or so should be a fun ride.
The tranny mount will have multiple holes so that other transmissions will fit.
Besides the glide, we will have it also fit a T400 and 4L80E.
Nice to see that a few still recall this very long in the building project.
Happy Thanksgiving.
Jarhead
Lima 3/4 1967-68.
11-26-2020, 10:57 AM
#173
TECH Senior Member
On this Thanksgiving day, I sincerely thank all you guys (and gals) who serve and have served. I salute you all!
12-04-2020, 02:19 PM
#174
An update on the Cutlass project.
From the start I have decided to use an electric water pump instead of factory belt driven pump.
They are reliable enough for street use and proven by years of use.
I like a very cleaned up look for the engine compartment, most setups and especially LS motors overcrowd the front of the motor with the accessories.
Especially in a GM A car, the power steering pump almost always just barely clears the steering box.
My plan is to use only a belt driven alternator, no power steering pump or factory water pump.
We are going to adapt Prius electric power steering to the Cutlass, an easy swap that is all hidden up under the dash.
You can Google articles on the swap and how the Prius type seems to work easiest.
I needed a new steering box anyway so I will replace my power box with the Borgenson replacement GM 525 quick ratio manual steering box that gives 16 to 1 ratio which should be perfect for me.
To keep the firewall looking as slick as possible I will use an electric brake master cylinder.
Billy Dawson at Corvette Correction uses them and showed me how well they work.
We will have the alternator mounted on the passenger side down low.
Should end up with a slick looking, uncomplicated by pumps and belts covering everything up.
Jarhead
From the start I have decided to use an electric water pump instead of factory belt driven pump.
They are reliable enough for street use and proven by years of use.
I like a very cleaned up look for the engine compartment, most setups and especially LS motors overcrowd the front of the motor with the accessories.
Especially in a GM A car, the power steering pump almost always just barely clears the steering box.
My plan is to use only a belt driven alternator, no power steering pump or factory water pump.
We are going to adapt Prius electric power steering to the Cutlass, an easy swap that is all hidden up under the dash.
You can Google articles on the swap and how the Prius type seems to work easiest.
I needed a new steering box anyway so I will replace my power box with the Borgenson replacement GM 525 quick ratio manual steering box that gives 16 to 1 ratio which should be perfect for me.
To keep the firewall looking as slick as possible I will use an electric brake master cylinder.
Billy Dawson at Corvette Correction uses them and showed me how well they work.
We will have the alternator mounted on the passenger side down low.
Should end up with a slick looking, uncomplicated by pumps and belts covering everything up.
Jarhead
12-07-2020, 06:25 AM
#176
if it helps you get the car on the road faster, you could at least try the volvo electric power steering pump, see - https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-steering.html
that way you can maintain the factory steering setup.
that way you can maintain the factory steering setup.
12-07-2020, 08:23 AM
#177
Thank you for the information on the Volvo electric power steering pump. A slick looking setup.
I have seen it used in articles.
However, for my project (and some other projects at the shop) we will try the Toyota EPS.
I need a brand new steering box anyway so I will use the GM manual fast ratio box.
You can buy a rebuilt unit, from Rockauto or Autozone etc, they came on various GM cars and ElCaminos.
But for only a bit more you can buy a brand new Borgenson box.
Another reason for wanting to use EPS is to unclutter the engine compartment.
No power steering hoses showing.
As far as the car getting completed and on the road “faster”, the steering isn’t going to really make much difference either way.
Jarhead
I have seen it used in articles.
However, for my project (and some other projects at the shop) we will try the Toyota EPS.
I need a brand new steering box anyway so I will use the GM manual fast ratio box.
You can buy a rebuilt unit, from Rockauto or Autozone etc, they came on various GM cars and ElCaminos.
But for only a bit more you can buy a brand new Borgenson box.
Another reason for wanting to use EPS is to unclutter the engine compartment.
No power steering hoses showing.
As far as the car getting completed and on the road “faster”, the steering isn’t going to really make much difference either way.
Jarhead
