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Hello I have a 1938 Oldsmobile business coupe I had some codes come up po171and po174 which is lean on bank one and two and po332 knock sencer 2
what I did is clear the codes and then started up the car and I took starting fluid with a straw and sprayed around the intake and injectors and map sencer and evaporate valve and throttle body and all of the intake tube connections after the maf and the two hoses that goes to the valve covers and the motor didn’t rev up any time I sprayed around any spot I did it while the motor was cold and nothing then I waited tell it was warm180deg or so and still nothing so I took it for a drive and the check engine light didn’t come on I drove for 5 miles or so.
I shut off the car and then restarted it and let it idle for a while and that is when the check engine light comes on
ive read that when both banks are lean it has a leak.
Second problem
when i floored it and it was like it was bogging and had no power tell I lifted and it got to less then half throttle then it ran like a rapped ape from 1/2 throttle or less .
third thing
when cold the oil pressure is like around 40lbs when idling
and I noticed when it was warm at idle it was like 25 lbs and I reved it up to 2000 rpms and it went up to like 32 or 35 .
my motor is a lq4 out of a 2006 Chevy express 3500 van with 199852 miles on it motor is stock except the intake and I have 2 1/2 exhaust on it with flowmaster 40’s and flex fuel injectors and a computer I got from psi with emissions and vats turned off psi had all this info when they sent me the computer .
I also used a stock harness made to a stand alone it has a 4l60e transmission with around a 2500 to 3000 stall and a 323 gears and a pozzie trax no slip in the rear end and coil overs and a triangulated 4 link
tires are 275/40/17 all the way around and it has a hydro boost brakes so no vac leak their
And it has new o2sencers
Sorry it’s so long winded
Have you checked for an exhaust leak anywhere? If there is a leak it will peg the long term fuel trims and make it sputter and run rough. Could also be a dirty maf sensor. If no leaks and clean maf maybe it needs to be tuned and its actually running lean. Knock sensor codes could be the sensor, harness, or even getting actual knock if it's too lean. That one's a deep web of checks and eliminations to fix.
I have not since it’s on both banks.
when I installed the motor and got it running their was no codes and have put on around 30 miles total.
i went and looked at obd2 scanners today and found a Bosch 1050 and 1100 they both have live stream and freeze frame data read and erase.
The old obd2 reader I had only read and erased no freeze frame or nothing .
so my thought is clean maf see if that helps and change knock sencer and wire harness and change the intake gasket even though it didn’t show a leak since it not a lot for the gasket and injector o rings while I have it apart
also I’m going to buy a hp tuners this summer and I’m a newbie so it’s going to be a slow process I’m sure and I’ve also thought of having it tuned the first time and then get the tuner program.
and when I first got this running their was no codes and I’ve put around 30 to 40 miles on it so far.
Not a lot of miles since it started throwing the codes
I dont remember the throttle acting like it is now I’m thanking it might be from the knock Sencer outing it in some safe mode I’m not sure though. I’m going to call psi and ask a few questions
Thank you kelly
Last edited by Gksportster; 03-10-2019 at 10:21 PM.
Reason: Thanking of more things to put in
Do you have any kind of scanner you can plug into it? That would probably help. Seeing the O2 Sensors and Fuel Trims would be good.
If you're looking for stuff to do without a scanner, check your fuel pressure and check to see if the MAF is dirty.
Joe
First get a scanner or the app for your phone. This will give rear time date on short term fuel trims. Next is to put a gauge on the system and see what the fuel pressure is at idle and, say 2500 RPM. If it drops off you may have a clogged filter or something wrong with the pump. Last is to check the injectors. Were they clean before startup? Do they match the poundage for that tune? My tune used the wrong injector info and kept throwing those codes 'till I figured it out.
I found out thy I’m getting the p0171 and p0174 lean codes I called psi and they looked at the programming they did for it and it was programmed for 41 lbs injectors not the 33 lbs 25326903 injectors I have.
So im going to send it to them and have it reprogrammed for my injectors and while it’s gone I will change the knock sencer and wire in 2 weeks I have to take it to state patrol inspection to get tags for it.
Thank you everyone I will keep everyone posted
Got the pcm back from pciconversion and it still was throwing the p0174 and p0171 codes I changed the rear knock sencer that fixed that code.
So I changed the intake gaskets yesterday and drove the car to state patrol inspection today and drove it around and it didn’t give me lean codes so far.
So spraying with starting fluid didn’t raise the rpm or make no change.
So it’s looking like the intake gaskets was the problem.
I figured I would post my outcome to maybe help somebody else.
You have to love getting a project running and on the road driving local I didn’t have problems but driving it farther and more the problems pop up mostly minor power steering line was leaking then transmission line was leaking plus the check engine codes I have all those fixed I hope.
Had my alignment done and the car still acts like it drives you not the other way around so the alignment shop is going to take a look to see why it’s possably doing that.
the alignment shop told me I only had my rear end 1/4 inch off better then factory does
and all I did is use a tape measure going frount to rear and the diagonal .
Here’s the alignment they did it has a heidets mustang 2 frount end and a triangulated 4 link rear 2001 s10 blazer 10 bolt 7.625 rear end with 232 gears and a power trax no slip
another new problem is vibrations today at30 ish to 40 their is a vibration in the steering wheel and seat of the pants then smooths out tell 55 ish and the faster you go the worse it gets and their is a Howl on acerloration and deceleration and to day when I had it on a lift I went to the rearend of the car and where the drive line connects I could push up the rear yolk 1/8 inch or less.
so I’m thanking that the pinion bearing is going out I’m not sure if that would cause all my vibrations I’m sure of the faster ones for sure.
Also so this has all new ball joints and tie rods and bushings and drive line is new and balanced
I’ve Been driving my car around and I’m still getting the lean codes p0171 and p0174 it only sets the codes at idle and I’ve noticed at idle the motor kinda stumbles a sec and then ok and does the same thing I have a maf ordered and will be here in the next few days . I’ve changed the spark plugs that didn’t help.
Fuel pressure was fine and it has a new fuel filter not sure if the injectors are dirty I would have to get another set of flex fuel injectors 25326903 To run.
i still haven’t baught the code scanner yet
Did your full throttle bog go away with the re-tune for the correct fuel injectors? Could be knock reduction / burst knock. I had similar issues last year with the LQ4 in my 71 GMC. 50-60% throttle would be great, but one in a while it'd pull a bunch of timing on a more or less full throttle stab, in anticipation of knocking. Even with the stock tune, stock timing, and only running 93 octane. Old cars can make more clunks and noises that could be interpreted as knock. I never fully got that one worked out, before I swapped over to a Holley Terminator X ECU.. much happier with the Holley.
Yes the bog went away I have 48 lbs at idle.
I rebuilt the rear end and took the drive line back to the shop that built it their wasn’t any weights on it so they rebalanced had added a weight on the rear of the drive line and I found out my motor was down 2.2 deg and my drive line is down .03 deg and my rear end was up 3 deg so I made the rear end up 2.3 deg that was the closest I could get it to 2.2 deg I have a triangulated 4 link.
im getting closer to getting all the vibrations fixed and fixing the car from driving me.
I took it it to it’s first car show and Cruizin last weekend it drove good only was 30 miles away.
I have another car show this weekend it’s 200 miles away.
Also I’m going to buy BlueDriver so I have live data
Cant afford hp tuners yet.
Ive also been thanking of holley terminator x in the near future so when I change cams it will tune it self and when and if I go turbo it will tune and run that also.
Thank you it’s taken a while to get to this point.
it had 2 bent rims one was bad and one was a little bent so I baught new rims fixed my vibration problem.
I had the motor smoke tested and no vac leaks
so I was told I need to have the tune tweaked a little it runs and drives just goes lean at idle.
and I re read my posts it has 58 lbs at idle
and i I cannot find anyone around here to tune it for less then 715 and they want to tune it their way and on the Dyno
so I guess I’m going to install a sloppy stage 2 cam and springs then take to the tuner.
I was also thanking of a high pressure oil pump also ?
Injectors are 25326903 injectors 38 lbs I’m not sure if I need to change to bigger injectors also ?
03-10-2019, 12:22 AM
Need help with a 06 lq4 
