Well the title is bc my shop name is Deadhorse customs. But we do interiors and I am personally swapping a LQ9 6.0 into a 85 C10. Now I�m no doubtebly beating a well dead horse here. I know there are enormous and stupidly lengthy how to and threads about this but frankly I hate reading long articles I�d rather talk with someone who has done this and ask my stupid questions. Let�s just pretend I�m a complete ignorant person when it comes to these and treat it like that. That way I get all the info. I need to start with this:

1.) Motor mounts/Cross member mounts?
2.) I�m going to assume gas pedal
3.) yes I have the ECM AND HARNESS no I haven�t sent it off to be flashed and re wired. Don�t know anyone.
4.) need list of basic for sure need to buy items, list of don�t waste your time items.

 

I'm assuming you are matching the LQ9 up to a newer trans as well? For the mounts I will always lean to the Holley systems if they have an engineered setup for my application which they do for your truck. https://www.holley.com/products/engi...ap_components/

 

Yes I am wanting to use one of my 4L60e trans. For the OD. It has a TH400 now but prefer the 4L60e also because I have a few laying around in great shape. S yes. I�m using that. I have a company that will make my driveshaft once I get the measurements. Basically what I�m wondering is I�ll need the motor mounts, and trans cross member mounts? Anything else? Also plan on running a external pump not internal.

 

I know in 87 they started the fuel injection in the C10 and K10. You might be able to just purchase a 1987 sending unit and use an in tank pump on your 85 tank. Worth looking into if they fit. The in tank is a far more reliable setup.

 

Well in my humble opinion I respectfully disagree. I have a few customers with these swaps one who has I think maybe 30 trucks anyway he just switched from an internal set up to the external and I remember when he had the internal he had issues and it whines like crazy. He switched. No issues whatsoever. Personally I think an external Whalpro is sufficient for me but appreciate the insight for sure. Thank you

 

I'm sure location has a lot to do with it. I went through 3 external walboro pumps failing in the summer here in Arizona and now have internal. The fuel cools the pumps down some. That's why every manufactured vehicle on the market runs an in tank pump. Heat is the enemy and it's too damn hot here. LOL

 

I think you�re def. right. I�m not saying the external is the best option but just going off what I have personally experienced via friends and customers. Plus I�m not too educated on internal pumps with these bc I know there�s something with the air or vacuum idk

 

Understand the direction you're going - gotta go with what you can/want to make work. A loud pump, particularly in-tank, is almost always a function of the pump that was chosen, not that it was mounted inside the tank. You have to try to even hear mine prime with the car not running - can't hear anything at all once it's started. And my car's quiet. If it's a rotary style pump mounted in-tank, it'll likely be quiet as a church mouse. Think of it this way -- HUNDREDS of millions of OEM vehicles with in-tank pumps produced over the last 35 years (since most were injected) - can't hear the fuel pump in any of them.

Good luck with the build!

 

Well I can says for 100% certainty that it wasn�t the pump itself but the location being internal. It was installed by a shop that does LS swaps and builds very high end engines. Their Daily shop car is a 1344 WHP camaro. I wish I was making that up but you can check it out. But I also agree with your assessment and I appreciate the info. I know all this stuff and I don�t want to get off topic here. My original plans for the post was to get a list of parts needed but I�ll have to just research and read stupid articles I don�t want to lol. I thought maybe someone had done it before and had a list they could provide. Thanks for all the help fellas

 

Here's the challenge you, and all of us face when doing a swap of just about any type. There are a thousand ways to skin this cat. Everyone has their own "list" and it's almost always unique to their build.

The big bits are pretty straightforward -- you'll need an aftermarket harness (I used PSI conversions) or you/someone to go through and modify the factory harness. A bit of a searching will turn up LOTS of resources for this. You'll need someone to fix the VATS problem on the ecu and make any other changes you need (usually deleting the charcoal canister purge function and rear O2's) - PSI did mine; lots of folks out there that can do this. You'll need motor mounts/tranny mounts - again, lots of resources for this. You'll need to manage exhaust -- the most important piece is manifolds/headers that will clear. Most everyone fabs or has an exhaust shop fab downstream from the manifolds - duals, large single, whatever you want to do. If you go drive-by-wire you'll need a compatible pedal - I strongly prefer to use the one (or one just like it) that came with the donor vehicle that provided the engine/tranny. Often, oil pans have to be changed to clear cross members -- once you mock up, you'll know. Engine cooling - usually, a radiator with more capacity than the one that came in your truck will be needed. Suspect you'll have plenty of options for a C10. And then, a million details depending on the level of refinement/sophistication you're shooting for. Gauge function, idiot lights, CEL, speedo, A/C, mating up power steering, custom hoses, etc. Everyone tackles this a bit differently -- and very few of us keep a complete "list" of every choice we make.

A 1344 whp vehicle is NOT the one you wanna reference for fuel pump noise/street use. That thing likely has multiple pumps and noise from them is secondary to being sure you keep that beast fed with fuel. Walbro's 450 rotary pump or anything from Deatchwerks is going to be silent in the tank - well documented. And there are PLENTY of non-rotary in-tanks (or inline's) that make noise - people complain about Walbro's 255 all the time. If you're building a mild 6.0L/4L60 in a pickup -- you have LOTS of options for silent in-tank pumps including the OEM pumps that came in the 4.8/5.3/6.0L truck/suv applications. IF you wanna go that way. If you don't -- I understand, it's your choice. Unless, of course, you use someone else's "list".... and then it's THEIR choice. (big grin)

Again - have fun with the swap. It's death by a million details, but lots of fun once you're there.

 

First-Thanks for the reply
secondy let me address a few incorrect assumptions.

1.) I didn�t reference the 1344 WHP camaro as the fuel pump noise situation. If you read prior to that I actually referenced the person who has that company (with camaro) that built one of his 30 Chevy truck collection. The customer of mine with said trucks has done LS swaps in most of those trucks and it was his 84 C10 I referenced for the fuel pump. He had the shop with the camaro do all the work. They recommended the external to him I used their name and the 1344 HP car as a reference to their capabilities, and vetting their reason for the fuel pump change. His C10 whines like crazy, ran great. But when he changed to external it was perfect. And this guy doesn�t buy cheap ****. He just spent $12,000 on a complete custom interior that I personally did at my shop for his sons chevelle.

2.). The list you provided is what I was looking for. I wanted basically to have someone who has done this swap just maybe point me in some directions as to who to check into for parts and who to avoid. The reason for that isn�t bc I don�t know what I�m doing or don�t know what�s out there. I�m doing that bc it would save me a lot of time. And isn�t that what doing your research is about? Personally I�d rather talk to someone who has done it and get some insight and yes every build is different. I�ve been building custom one off interiors for many years and I�ve done some that ended up in very well known shows, magazines and people. But every swap in this particular truck has common denominators that can be given to someone. I already have the Holley Oil pan and the intake mani.

What i would like to know further is this:

1.) Best mounts to use IE (Dirty Dingo, BRP ect)
2.) I don�t have the donor vehicle I get all my motors from a local salvage yard and they give my shop first crack at every LS motor that gets pulled. They know my criteria and what I want when it�s pulled and I buy about 10 a month. So gas pedal is something I need to locate.
3.) is the LQ9 a fly by wire? I�m positive that it�s not the direct injected newer model.

4.) any suggestions on sending wiring harness maybe someone has someone they sent it to before? I�d prefer to just use the harness it came with unless it�s the same investment buying one from the company you mentioned.

5.) flashing the ECM (same questions as above)

6.) AND finally I�d someone has done this exact swap in similar truck maybe they have some stuff they could point out to save me some time. That�s all I wanted. I have the facility to do this I have the tools and staff. I understand things I own a shop but we do interiors and upholstery. Fabricate and manufacture Suspension. So I�m not a engine shop it like that. The manifold advice I wrote down I thank you for that I have a local guy who can come to my shop and use my equipment and make the exhaust. If theirs anything else or I�m missing something I�m all ears. Thanks again I do appreciate it.

 

Use Holley mounts and associated other parts. They are designed to work together.

 

If you have the Holley pan, I would suggest the matching swap components from them. When you mix components from different manufacturers, the amount of money you save is generally compromised by having to reengeneer stuff...

 

^^^^^^^^ This is what I meant by "associated parts". Applies to headers too.

 

Yes I do have the Holley Pan. I honestly wasn�t really overly aware Holley made many parts like this specific I know they obviously do but maybe bc I keep hearing guys talk about BRP and Dirty Dingo. But let�s say you google it. I never see Holley mounts and such but I�ll check into it. I�m the same way if I have a certain brand part I try to get all the associated parts bc they typically match up and work well in conjunction with one another obviously. Thanks I do appreciate all the help fellas

 

So looking at Holley�s website for 73-87 LS Swap parts they offer. About $500 gets you the motor mounts, cross member, mount inserts, cross member bracket.

 

I've done a couple of these...I have a 1986 C-30 crew cab dually with a 6.0L LQ4/4l80e combo that I drive every day.

I just use cheap trans dapt plates part# 4572, factory motor mounts, the stock GM clam shell mounts with the right side slightly modified to be able to use the factory LS AC comp.

Factory LQ4 oil pan fits perfect.



I used 1987 GM F.I. pump hangers and senders inside my 1986 tanks with dual AC Delco EP-381 pumps running through the factory tank switcher. VERY quiet.

Factory trans crossmember moved back to match the 4l80e mount, redrilled holes in the frame.

Early F-body exhaust manifolds fit very well.

You can PM me with any questions.




Not the cleanest anymore, but I use it every week...