mikespeed95

iTrader: (1)

easy. take the stock gm line, take the nissan line, and just put them together.

i woudl offer to get the fittings and measurements, but honestly i will forget to ever do it. its easy though, just take both lines to a hose shop and they can put them together, just make sure you tell them how long you need it.

Preston99WS6

iTrader: (7)

thanks mike, im a huge fan of your car. it convinced me to pull my s15swap and toss in a built ls1. im just collecting the last few parts to do my swap.

oops, posted under a friends name

p51

What radiator besides hinson will work ? Im thinking a ka koyo aluminum s13 radiator should work b/c it fits with out modification , has inlet outlet on the pass side ls1 water pump is on that side so pluming should be easy but will it be enough to cool the ls1 . its only 2 1/16 thick

mikespeed95

iTrader: (1)

im goign to be switching to a sumitt nascar radiator soon. the one i have currently just doesnt cut it for anything other than grandma driving in 80* overcast weather.

p51

the hinson radiator dont keep the engine cool? how thick is the core ?? i seen your car and lukes fd up close and the radiator seems big enough to do the job . i figured a universal alumuminum radiator with inlet outlet on the same side 2.5 thick core should work ? and keep the hoses simple . only problem is they dont really make any in 26with x 14~15height. or at least i havent found one

mikespeed95

iTrader: (1)

i dont know, something isnt right in my cooling system and ive replaced every item but the radiator. i know their FD kit works fine but its the last possible problem on my car. and the headgaskets arent blown

Slo_240sx

iTrader: (17)

Better fix it before you do blow one.

The koyo fits and works great on my car. Heres a pic:

mikespeed95

iTrader: (1)

another thing im wondering in relation to your setup and mine is the height of the motor.

the hinson kit lowers the subframe, but the mounting system still has like 2'' gap between the oil pan and the motor, even with the stock intake manifold it would still stick out the hood. what im wondering is if possibly the top of the radiator sits lower than the highest water passage in the motor. but i dont know how sound that theory is, ive topped it off even with the front of the car raised 3' in the front, so i really dont know.

on a side note, thats a damn clean engine bay. mines getting there. i need valve covers bad.

p51

thats good to hear .. i wasnt shure if it would work out on the v8 . so you dont have any issuse at all . sitting , driving up hill , doese the temp fluctuate or stay pritty much even ..

icantdrift

iTrader: (1)

if the koyo can keep the higher strung turbo four cool then the V8 shouldn't tax it too bad.

owen v8litew8

mike can you burp your coolant on the engine with the steam tube on the top of each head? thats an easy way to burp out any air...

good luck.

these LS1240sx's ROCK.

mikespeed95

iTrader: (1)

i didnt know you could do that.......!!

mikespeed95

iTrader: (1)

<-- fuckn n00b

the.erinyes

iTrader: (3)

SLO_240SX - Which Koyo version radiator did you use: SR or KA? Also, did you fab up your own hoses or stock for SR or KA? All information would be appreciated! Thanks, Ken.

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

I tried the hooker super comp block huggers and they spot where the collector was at pointed right at the rack. Having something exit at the rear just is going to be tight, especially if it's a shorty set and a collector is right in that are. The big thing for me when I was looking around was that something needs to exit straight down between cylinders 3 and 5, most headers and even cast manifolds exit under 5 or between 5 and 7 which just down't work well with the LS1/S13 swap. I have the engine about ~2" further back from where some people have their's at so that might make a big difference for me though so take this info with a grain of salt.

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

I've had issues with all the headers that are off the shelf that I've 'looked' at for the collector is just in the wrong spot. (either points at the rack or steering shaft or just plain wouldn't even bolt in for the collector wouldn't allow them to fit.) The only headers I've found that might work are the ones that Slo... found that are from JBA that are off of '97 to '00 C5's and those are expensive and they also still need some modding to make them work.

I'm currently trying to get a set of C5 Manifolds to fit in my swap for I to need to pass a visual inspection for emmisions in GA here. (I've got pictures up in the thread I started titled 'Project 346SX...') I might get a set of long tubes made later but for now the manifolds should work okay. It's still pretty tight fit but the '07 to '00 C5 Manifolds are stainless steel so they can be welded on pretty easily. Make sure though that they are the ones that are welded together if you do buy or get a set from somebody for I'm not 100% sure which years got the stainless manifolds.

HTH!

owen v8litew8

r u serious?
if you are glad I could help
if youre joking, uh, it was just an idea...

datboibrad

iTrader: (1)

how is this done? do they just put spacers between the frame rail and the acutal subframe?

also, has anyone else tried running the rb x member? and to the guy that did (Slo_240sx) did you have to cut up your subframe any? it looks like you did a bit in your pictures just not really sure.

mikespeed95

iTrader: (1)

i 100% honestly didnt know you could do that.


pretty much.

datboibrad

iTrader: (1)

any pics of this mike? also i would think this wouldnt be needed on an s14 since hood clearance would be alot more forgiving would it not? also wouldnt this affect the fitment of the steering rack??