1dirtyZ's conversion conversion :D
#182
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just kidding , here is a quick update , been busy with other stuff lately but did manage to work on this thing
first off , got the car running and for some reason the front end is sitting so much lower now. it looks awesome , but its riding on the bump stops so you can imagine how that feels driving down the road . here is how it looked :
I did raise the front end again and now it runs a ton better , I still need to scale the car to make sure the corner weights are all ok .
the car was actually sitting so low that the tire was rubbing the fuel line when I turned the steering wheel , which in turn frayed the fuel line , which had to be replaced . and since I was in that general area , I decided to reinstall the transmission cooler tot eh inner fender to try and keep it cooler , and remove the other one in front of the radiator:
and while I was there too , I decided to fab up a shroud to shield the cooler from the engine bay hot air. I started by making a CAD template ( Cardboard Aided Design) of the piece:
then cut , bead rolled it and bent it into shape :
Sorry no pics of it installed
and keeping to the " while I was there" theme I decided to mount the water / meth. pump in the passenger side inner fender , and after looking around for a while I couldn't find a reasonable place to mount the tanks except in the trunk , so I fabbed up a small bracket :
and installed the tank:
I still need to plumb the pieces and wire the pump , and install the injection solenoid in the intake pipe.
I also replaced the walbro pumps with a pair or AEM 380's :
I plan on swapping the tank out to another one that's a bit more stealthy ( has a big pickup tube from the top instead of the two on the bottom , more on the later.
I have been a lot of reading about boost control and different setups , and figured out a pretty nice way to set up my system ; using CO2 to control the waste gates is a very nice way of doing it but I don't like the idea of having to replace and fill the CO2 bottle . so I decided to make my system a dual solenoid bosst controlled setup and added a small viair air compressor, 1 gal tank, and regulator in the trunk to have a constant supply of air tot he WG .
another added benefit is that I can use it to fill tires whenever I want .
here is how it looks all snuggled up in the trunk before I finalized their location :
so after all that I decided to head out to a local mustang club roll race deal , where I could start messing around with the boost settings and what not .
so I loaded my gear :
hit the road tot he track ( I love my 4L80 )
when at the track I found out a few things , I could not control my boost . I turns out there were two reasons, the first was kind of obvious ; I had to high of a WG spring (11 psi) to begin with , and I could not go lower . the other issue I found out later ,,,,, which was my boost solenoids were not wired (in my infinite wisdom I did run the wires to the pcm , but called it quits that night , and the next time I was at the garage I assumed that I had it all done )
so a few connections later and I have control of the boost now , but I couldn't test cause it was raining for almost a week now .
so hopefully I can try to do the following :
- make a few test hits to tune the boost settings.
- scale the car
- install a crotch belt to make it a legit 5 point harness
- fix the turn signal
- start sanding and prepping the new GT nose I got to cover my buck tooth intercooler
- cut the rear fenders a bit to clear the slicks ( they used to stretch out at speed and start rubbing )
wish me luck
first off , got the car running and for some reason the front end is sitting so much lower now. it looks awesome , but its riding on the bump stops so you can imagine how that feels driving down the road . here is how it looked :
I did raise the front end again and now it runs a ton better , I still need to scale the car to make sure the corner weights are all ok .
the car was actually sitting so low that the tire was rubbing the fuel line when I turned the steering wheel , which in turn frayed the fuel line , which had to be replaced . and since I was in that general area , I decided to reinstall the transmission cooler tot eh inner fender to try and keep it cooler , and remove the other one in front of the radiator:
and while I was there too , I decided to fab up a shroud to shield the cooler from the engine bay hot air. I started by making a CAD template ( Cardboard Aided Design) of the piece:
then cut , bead rolled it and bent it into shape :
Sorry no pics of it installed
and keeping to the " while I was there" theme I decided to mount the water / meth. pump in the passenger side inner fender , and after looking around for a while I couldn't find a reasonable place to mount the tanks except in the trunk , so I fabbed up a small bracket :
and installed the tank:
I still need to plumb the pieces and wire the pump , and install the injection solenoid in the intake pipe.
I also replaced the walbro pumps with a pair or AEM 380's :
I plan on swapping the tank out to another one that's a bit more stealthy ( has a big pickup tube from the top instead of the two on the bottom , more on the later.
I have been a lot of reading about boost control and different setups , and figured out a pretty nice way to set up my system ; using CO2 to control the waste gates is a very nice way of doing it but I don't like the idea of having to replace and fill the CO2 bottle . so I decided to make my system a dual solenoid bosst controlled setup and added a small viair air compressor, 1 gal tank, and regulator in the trunk to have a constant supply of air tot he WG .
another added benefit is that I can use it to fill tires whenever I want .
here is how it looks all snuggled up in the trunk before I finalized their location :
so after all that I decided to head out to a local mustang club roll race deal , where I could start messing around with the boost settings and what not .
so I loaded my gear :
hit the road tot he track ( I love my 4L80 )
when at the track I found out a few things , I could not control my boost . I turns out there were two reasons, the first was kind of obvious ; I had to high of a WG spring (11 psi) to begin with , and I could not go lower . the other issue I found out later ,,,,, which was my boost solenoids were not wired (in my infinite wisdom I did run the wires to the pcm , but called it quits that night , and the next time I was at the garage I assumed that I had it all done )
so a few connections later and I have control of the boost now , but I couldn't test cause it was raining for almost a week now .
so hopefully I can try to do the following :
- make a few test hits to tune the boost settings.
- scale the car
- install a crotch belt to make it a legit 5 point harness
- fix the turn signal
- start sanding and prepping the new GT nose I got to cover my buck tooth intercooler
- cut the rear fenders a bit to clear the slicks ( they used to stretch out at speed and start rubbing )
wish me luck
#183
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time for an update !
I did manage to get the boost control situation sorted out and it now works great ! I love how much control I have in it now with the holley and the onboard air setup. I have a 3lbs spring in the wastegates , and I have the boost ramps setup to give 3 psi in first , ramps up in 2nd up to the desired boost setting , and full boost in third , then if I hit 4th for some reason while under WOT I have it set up to 3 psi ( spring) to save the trans.
I also installed the crotch belt and fixed the turn signal.
I did sandblast the GT nose, and did cut the rear fenders .
I took the car out a few times and did notice a few things : the trans temp was climbing steadily when cruising according to the gauge , but the data log shows is rising and falling with load, which has me thinking I might have an issue with the gauge sensor placement and its proximity to the exhaust heat ( and the fact that I run a full containment tray running from the balancer all the way to the tail shaft - which is not helping in terms of air flow).
moving on , I started noticing that the trans was slipping in third at the track and shifts were getting sloppy ; the pcm would command the 2-3 shift and the car would hit the limiter a few times and take a few seconds to actually shift ( sign that the solenoids were sticking ?) . the trans fluid also smelt burnt a bit.
so it was time to drop the pan and it was confirmed , she be toast
there were no shavings in the pan but this is how the hydraulic fluid looked like :
so I took the thing out and on the bench and started disassembly, I took the pan and valve body out and should be done with the rest soon.
since the car was down I thought this was a good time to do some other things I had on my list ; it was time to do something with the fuel system .
I really wasn't feeling comfortable with the fuel lines poking from under the tank like they did ( it looked cool back then but I matured now )
so it was time to tidey things up a bit.
I swapped tanks to a stocker with a -10 pickup tube that entered from the stock location along with a return line:
and then relocated the pumps to a bracket that held them both together, and redid the wiring to where the pumps and fuel level sending unit where all bundled up into one nice harness with a plug to make servicing much easier :
and that's about it for now
the plan is to see what went wrong in the trans ( talking to rossler I mentioned this issue and he told me something interesting ; he said I should never go WOT while the shifter was in D , and that I should pull it down into 3 whenever I hammer on the thing. he said keeping it in D keeps some valve open and wreaks havoc with the sprag or something like that that would sorta explain my previous issues ).
I also can send in the converter in to get re-stalled for the new combo ( it was setup for the procharger ).
I also plan on removing the front of the car to test the nose , I also might try to move the radiator back a bit to help with airflow and maybe fab up a deflector ( just like the F-bodies have).
and while I'm there I might as well remove the fenders and test fit a new set of air to water intercoolers I got to see how they fit ( more on that later).
I did manage to get the boost control situation sorted out and it now works great ! I love how much control I have in it now with the holley and the onboard air setup. I have a 3lbs spring in the wastegates , and I have the boost ramps setup to give 3 psi in first , ramps up in 2nd up to the desired boost setting , and full boost in third , then if I hit 4th for some reason while under WOT I have it set up to 3 psi ( spring) to save the trans.
I also installed the crotch belt and fixed the turn signal.
I did sandblast the GT nose, and did cut the rear fenders .
I took the car out a few times and did notice a few things : the trans temp was climbing steadily when cruising according to the gauge , but the data log shows is rising and falling with load, which has me thinking I might have an issue with the gauge sensor placement and its proximity to the exhaust heat ( and the fact that I run a full containment tray running from the balancer all the way to the tail shaft - which is not helping in terms of air flow).
moving on , I started noticing that the trans was slipping in third at the track and shifts were getting sloppy ; the pcm would command the 2-3 shift and the car would hit the limiter a few times and take a few seconds to actually shift ( sign that the solenoids were sticking ?) . the trans fluid also smelt burnt a bit.
so it was time to drop the pan and it was confirmed , she be toast
there were no shavings in the pan but this is how the hydraulic fluid looked like :
so I took the thing out and on the bench and started disassembly, I took the pan and valve body out and should be done with the rest soon.
since the car was down I thought this was a good time to do some other things I had on my list ; it was time to do something with the fuel system .
I really wasn't feeling comfortable with the fuel lines poking from under the tank like they did ( it looked cool back then but I matured now )
so it was time to tidey things up a bit.
I swapped tanks to a stocker with a -10 pickup tube that entered from the stock location along with a return line:
and then relocated the pumps to a bracket that held them both together, and redid the wiring to where the pumps and fuel level sending unit where all bundled up into one nice harness with a plug to make servicing much easier :
and that's about it for now
the plan is to see what went wrong in the trans ( talking to rossler I mentioned this issue and he told me something interesting ; he said I should never go WOT while the shifter was in D , and that I should pull it down into 3 whenever I hammer on the thing. he said keeping it in D keeps some valve open and wreaks havoc with the sprag or something like that that would sorta explain my previous issues ).
I also can send in the converter in to get re-stalled for the new combo ( it was setup for the procharger ).
I also plan on removing the front of the car to test the nose , I also might try to move the radiator back a bit to help with airflow and maybe fab up a deflector ( just like the F-bodies have).
and while I'm there I might as well remove the fenders and test fit a new set of air to water intercoolers I got to see how they fit ( more on that later).