SN95 Mustang swap...electronics?
SN95 Mustang swap...electronics? I guess I will make a post and find out what I need to find out NOW , rather in the middle of the swap...
I will be putting in an LQ4 and a 5 speed of sorts (Tremec or G-force?) into my 95 Mustang... I will keep this motor fuel injected by a stand-alone form of some sort, havent decided which one, by way of either a stand-alone harness and GM computer with a tune, or MegaSquirt or BS3 or FAST...
Anyways, my concern is with the rest of the electronics in the car....its a V6 5speed car right now....I would like to elimintate the stock engine wiring and computer...
HOWEVER,
I want to be able to retain the functions of the stock dash, my understanding is that I can get all the gauges working except for the tach with the ford sensors in place getting a reading.
How can I make the tach work?
The car also has factory keyless entry and power locks/windows/trunk, how will those stay functioning?
What about the heater and AC control panel? How will those continue to function?
Are all these controlled by the BCM? Will the BCM continue to function without the factory computer in place?
Im sure I can get all these things to stay working, but need to know exactly how....
Any help I can get on this matter is appreciated! I want to retain all of the stock "comforts" as much as I can....
I will be putting in an LQ4 and a 5 speed of sorts (Tremec or G-force?) into my 95 Mustang... I will keep this motor fuel injected by a stand-alone form of some sort, havent decided which one, by way of either a stand-alone harness and GM computer with a tune, or MegaSquirt or BS3 or FAST...
Anyways, my concern is with the rest of the electronics in the car....its a V6 5speed car right now....I would like to elimintate the stock engine wiring and computer...
HOWEVER,
I want to be able to retain the functions of the stock dash, my understanding is that I can get all the gauges working except for the tach with the ford sensors in place getting a reading.
How can I make the tach work?
The car also has factory keyless entry and power locks/windows/trunk, how will those stay functioning?
What about the heater and AC control panel? How will those continue to function?
Are all these controlled by the BCM? Will the BCM continue to function without the factory computer in place?
Im sure I can get all these things to stay working, but need to know exactly how....
Any help I can get on this matter is appreciated! I want to retain all of the stock "comforts" as much as I can....
bump. Just got my K member for my 98 Cobra, I would like it to be a street driver too. According to my Ford electrical manual, the BCM should work without the PCM present. I see a few pins I may need to power/ground but they may work themselves out.
Let me know if you can find a way to get the tach to work - I have just about given up all hope and am ready to pull the trigger on the stupid Autometer setup. That plastic panel just looks so incredibly cheezy.
Let me know if you can find a way to get the tach to work - I have just about given up all hope and am ready to pull the trigger on the stupid Autometer setup. That plastic panel just looks so incredibly cheezy.
Thanks for the info on the BCM! If you get your swap going before I start on mine, please post up what you had to do with the BCM. Otherwise, I'll have to bug you since you have the electric manual. 
If I cant get the stock tach to work right away, I will prolly just install one of those small shift-lights for the time being.
I wonder if a tach adapter of some-sort, from say MSD, might be required to get the stock tach going?
If I cant get the stock tach to work right away, I will prolly just install one of those small shift-lights for the time being.
I wonder if a tach adapter of some-sort, from say MSD, might be required to get the stock tach going?
Well the tach is driven off the ignition output so you'd have to find the operating range of the SN95 ignition output, then somehow use a resistor or an inline modifier/adapter to make the stock LS1 ignition output match the SN95 tach. Not easy.
You could probably disassemble the stock cluster, use a hole saw for a one of the small Autometer 3 3/8" tachometers and put that in the otherwise stock cluster. But that would look dumb, and I'd be afraid of damaging the silver contacts on the circuit board on the cluster.
The way I'm going to figure it out is that I have to remove all the stuff from the Cobra shortly that I'm not using to sell it off (motor, trans, driveshaft, wiring harness, ECM, brake booster and MC, k member, etc.). So as I remove the engine wiring harness and the ECM, if anything goes back to the BCM I am going to have issues to work out. If nothing does, that means the body harness is completely separate from the engine/ECM harness.
The LS1 ECM/engine harness is practically standalone so that would work if the factory SN95 BCM/body harness do not intersect the factory SN95 ECM/engine harness. I see nothing on the electrical manual, but we'll see.
I'm starting mine in two weeks disassemble and put my LS1 k member and spring perches in to get it back to rolling status, but from there it's build up funds. Likely spring. If I'm lucky I will find a cheap LS1 engine harness and computer to play with over winter because that will be quite a project and keep me busy while I build cash.
You could probably disassemble the stock cluster, use a hole saw for a one of the small Autometer 3 3/8" tachometers and put that in the otherwise stock cluster. But that would look dumb, and I'd be afraid of damaging the silver contacts on the circuit board on the cluster.
The way I'm going to figure it out is that I have to remove all the stuff from the Cobra shortly that I'm not using to sell it off (motor, trans, driveshaft, wiring harness, ECM, brake booster and MC, k member, etc.). So as I remove the engine wiring harness and the ECM, if anything goes back to the BCM I am going to have issues to work out. If nothing does, that means the body harness is completely separate from the engine/ECM harness.
The LS1 ECM/engine harness is practically standalone so that would work if the factory SN95 BCM/body harness do not intersect the factory SN95 ECM/engine harness. I see nothing on the electrical manual, but we'll see.
I'm starting mine in two weeks disassemble and put my LS1 k member and spring perches in to get it back to rolling status, but from there it's build up funds. Likely spring. If I'm lucky I will find a cheap LS1 engine harness and computer to play with over winter because that will be quite a project and keep me busy while I build cash.
I take it you went with the AJE LS1 swap K-member? What made you go this route over using your MM 4.6 K-member and modifying the 4.6 mounts for the LSbased motor to bolt in?
More direct swap. After seeing the AJE K member and remembering what my MM K looked like, I don't forsee any problems reusing my MM LCAs and coilovers.
Just one less thing I have to fabricate, and I've seen some great stuff from AJE products at work in the past few years.
It should not be hard at all to sell a 4.6 MM K member for the $309 shipped I paid for this AJE one.
Just one less thing I have to fabricate, and I've seen some great stuff from AJE products at work in the past few years.
It should not be hard at all to sell a 4.6 MM K member for the $309 shipped I paid for this AJE one.
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So what kind of rear are u running?
how much power does the stock rear hold.can any stock rears or swaps from newer cars. hold alot of power?
are 600rwhp possible with beefed up rear that is oem or swap?
im considering into a sn95 swap, i was thinking either a 3rd gen fbody
or a sn95, but i have heard that there are some sn95's running mid 9's with beefed up rear ends
how much power does the stock rear hold.can any stock rears or swaps from newer cars. hold alot of power?
are 600rwhp possible with beefed up rear that is oem or swap?
im considering into a sn95 swap, i was thinking either a 3rd gen fbody
or a sn95, but i have heard that there are some sn95's running mid 9's with beefed up rear ends
the 8.8 is pretty tough..although not so much so in its stock form with the 28 spline axles....but I have seen guys run 10s with them ("soft" launching automatic cars)
Moser, Strange etc, make up to a 35spline axle/spool kits for these rear ends....one of the customers where I used to work, amongst others out there, has gone low 8s, 8.1s@170mph, with an 8.8 rear end with the 35spline goodies, axle brace etc! Seen/heard of a few into the 7s with 8.8...
The V6 SN95s came with the weak 7.5 rearend, as did my car, since its an original v6 car...But now Ive got an 8.8 in my car (out of a 97 Cobra), stock 28 spline axles Trac-Loc and 3.27 gears...my car wont be a drag car, strictly street business....
Moser, Strange etc, make up to a 35spline axle/spool kits for these rear ends....one of the customers where I used to work, amongst others out there, has gone low 8s, 8.1s@170mph, with an 8.8 rear end with the 35spline goodies, axle brace etc! Seen/heard of a few into the 7s with 8.8...
The V6 SN95s came with the weak 7.5 rearend, as did my car, since its an original v6 car...But now Ive got an 8.8 in my car (out of a 97 Cobra), stock 28 spline axles Trac-Loc and 3.27 gears...my car wont be a drag car, strictly street business....
So what kind of rear are u running?
how much power does the stock rear hold.can any stock rears or swaps from newer cars. hold alot of power?
are 600rwhp possible with beefed up rear that is oem or swap?
im considering into a sn95 swap, i was thinking either a 3rd gen fbody
or a sn95, but i have heard that there are some sn95's running mid 9's with beefed up rear ends
how much power does the stock rear hold.can any stock rears or swaps from newer cars. hold alot of power?
are 600rwhp possible with beefed up rear that is oem or swap?
im considering into a sn95 swap, i was thinking either a 3rd gen fbody
or a sn95, but i have heard that there are some sn95's running mid 9's with beefed up rear ends
a lot of guys do ridiculous stuff like swarr auto braces, 9" axle ends, 9" complete housings, spools, etc. I'm a believer in doing it with as little as possible - not in terms of money, but in terms of sacrificing streetability. the explorer differential with terminator clutch packs and gears is going to drive like the car was just rolled off the factory lot and is sub-9 capable. the 8.8 is a very competent third member.
