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Auto pulls through brakes when in gear, ideas?

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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 07:15 PM
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Default Auto pulls through brakes when in gear, ideas?

So one of the few bugs I have is that the car idles really low (650-700) until its in gear, then it goes to 1000-1500 and sometimes higher once rolling...but its loading up and actually pushing hard on the brakes to keep it stopped.

I am sure part of it is due to the cam, but I still would not expect the stock stall to be fully loaded this hard until a higher rpm. Am I mistaken or is there something else I'm missing? Tune maybe?

The tranny also seems to "rush" gears at light throttle. For example once I put it in gear say at a stop sign, I get a 1-2 shift by the time I get half through the intersection and 3rd shortly after. It will kick down fine but I just find it awkward.
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 07:48 PM
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Details on the set-up....

What trans?
EFI right?
What size cam?

Tune would affect the idle being low in neutral that should be easy to fix. That is a decent jump in RPM when going into gear, I'd say something was deff off. Have you checked for vacuum leaks?
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 08:45 PM
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What are the specs on your cam? Larger cam's with an insufficient stall are bad about trying to push through.
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Old Nov 3, 2008 | 02:27 AM
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its a comp grind based on the TR230/224 on xe lobes

a friend rode today and says he thinks its just the cam, his car behaved similar it turns out
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Old Nov 3, 2008 | 10:40 AM
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Maybe the TQ is not unlocking? just a thought. also I would not think that Idle would be low out of gear and higher in gear have you checked with you Tuner. I guess they could have it set lower out of gear for a nice idle lope?
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Old Nov 3, 2008 | 11:09 AM
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It doesn't take much cam at all to pull hard on the brakes, even the baby gmpp hotcam in my 4th gen pulls hard with the stock converter.
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Old Nov 3, 2008 | 11:09 AM
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What transmission are you using? Is it controlled by the PCM or stand-alone system?

What stall converter are you using?
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Old Nov 3, 2008 | 12:39 PM
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stock idle in gear is 500 rpm...need to get your idle as low as you can with that cam...or get a higher stall converter
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Old Nov 3, 2008 | 03:49 PM
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I vote for higher stall converter. They just like to push through the brakes otherwise.
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Old Nov 3, 2008 | 10:58 PM
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did you ever hook up the TCC yet? Saw mention a few days ago that you didn't.
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Old Nov 3, 2008 | 11:41 PM
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I did, it seemed to be working as well.

But the last time I plugged the car in there was a code for low TCC signal. But the car was doing this before it was hooked up, while it was hooked up, and so on.

My friend explained that the cam causes a drop in engine vacuum under the load of being in gear causing the idle to come up which loads up the converter. This makes sense to me so I'm guessing that might be the case.
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 12:00 AM
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I'd try lowering the in gear idle speed (if you can and it will still run).
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 12:15 AM
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I don't have any tuning software yet, it was a mail order tune, but that is a good idea
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 10:06 AM
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You really can't lower the idle speed with the screw on the Throttle body.. the PCM will pickup the change in RPM and will try and adjust it with the IAC back to what it thinks it is suppose to be, which is the high RPM in gear.
It has to be adjusted via the PCM and tuning software.
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 10:21 AM
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with my scanner I can manually control the IAC (but not permanently) and I found I can bring it down several steps before the idle starts to get erratic
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 10:53 AM
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Sound like you really need to get a good tune.. How do you like that CAM 230/224.. what is the LSA ?

I was thinking about the same cam from TR with a 111 LSA... I know it will be different with a T56/M6.. but any info on it would be great...
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 08:50 PM
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my cam is based on the TR230/224, same duration, lift, lsa, and ground in advance...only difference is my cam is on the comp xe lobes which are supposed to be less aggressive (didn't know much about comp lobes when I ordered it) and according to one of the cam gurus on here will make about 5-10 hp less than the TR version

so why did I get this one? I got a good deal and it wasn't backordered when I needed it

the less aggressive lobes might help me out since in theory they will be less harsh on the valvetrain and my car is a daily driver and usually my only car...so I don't consider that a terrible thing

I like it...but don't have anything to base it off of except a friend's T/A which has a Torquer v.3...but he has a 4000 stall too. His car I can tell pulls a little harder but how much I don't know and I don't know what my car weighs in comparison either.

I know the cam comes on VERY hard at 32-3500ish and pulls harder and harder until the car shifts at 6200. The cam is still pulling hard when it shifts. If you have better rodbolts I would think spinning to 6500-6700 would be easy and gain some more power.

It sounds pretty good to me, especially with the cutouts open. There is power all through the powerband and I can drive around town easily without it kicking down unless I want it to.

Overall, if I were doing it over I would either get the same thing or at most have it ground on the more aggressive lobes after getting some input from Pat or another cam guy here for what would work well but still not require larger springs or flycutting or that kinda crap.
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