buddies 6.0, pt88 mustang
10-13-2009, 01:01 PM
#42
Hi Parish,
Great thread. I am building my LQ4 based 88 5.0 hatch mustang, with a glide and probable S400 turbo for mostly 1/8 th mile drag racing. I may use a PT88 based on this thread.
I plan on keeping the fuel injection and runniung MSII mega squirt to control the injectors only and use the MSD box for the ignition.
I assume the MSD box to LS motors simply plugs in and I can control all timing functions (such as rev limiter, 2 step for launches & burnouts, to pull timing under boost etc). almost like a digital 7 right? I too am brand new to LS motors. So the engines come factory with the crank fired ignition, no distributor, and the MSD box just plugs in and is programable on a lap top for timing control right?
Because I am in California I cannot drive my car on the street and learn how to tune it as a daily street/strip driver car. How hard do you think this setup (MS for injectors, MSD box for timing) will be to tune for a race only track car at the track for a beginner?
My goal is about 1000 flywheel hp with the stock lQ4 short block with ARP rod bolts ARP head studs and cam and springs replacement, with maybe LS6 car intake or the new edelbrock XT, 80lb injectors, meth injection, air to air intercooler, 3.73 gears. I am debating whether to run the 317 stock heads or a set of patriot stage III heads for about 1200.00.
Have you heard anything about these patriot heads? They are 1/2 the price of AFR's. The main advantage to me would be a thicker deck over a L92 or 317 GM casting. And the flow numbers shown for stage III's on the patriot website are about 320 CFM for the intake. To me a budget turbo car does not need the best heads on the market because you can just add a couple pounds of boost to make up the difference.
I was contemplating H beam rods, forged pistons with patriot heads, but you have me thinking about just pushing a stock bock with ARP rod bolts! lol
My goal is a recession special, simple, cheap and fast to have fun at the track with. I would luv to see high 5's in the 1/8th ultimately. I will lighten the car as much as possible. I am thinking about 2800 lbs with a 10 pt cage and stripped out interior, fiberglass hood.
I am defintiely keeping an eye on this thread!
Thanks for any advice in advance.
Hpbob1
Great thread. I am building my LQ4 based 88 5.0 hatch mustang, with a glide and probable S400 turbo for mostly 1/8 th mile drag racing. I may use a PT88 based on this thread.
I plan on keeping the fuel injection and runniung MSII mega squirt to control the injectors only and use the MSD box for the ignition.
I assume the MSD box to LS motors simply plugs in and I can control all timing functions (such as rev limiter, 2 step for launches & burnouts, to pull timing under boost etc). almost like a digital 7 right? I too am brand new to LS motors. So the engines come factory with the crank fired ignition, no distributor, and the MSD box just plugs in and is programable on a lap top for timing control right?
Because I am in California I cannot drive my car on the street and learn how to tune it as a daily street/strip driver car. How hard do you think this setup (MS for injectors, MSD box for timing) will be to tune for a race only track car at the track for a beginner?
My goal is about 1000 flywheel hp with the stock lQ4 short block with ARP rod bolts ARP head studs and cam and springs replacement, with maybe LS6 car intake or the new edelbrock XT, 80lb injectors, meth injection, air to air intercooler, 3.73 gears. I am debating whether to run the 317 stock heads or a set of patriot stage III heads for about 1200.00.
Have you heard anything about these patriot heads? They are 1/2 the price of AFR's. The main advantage to me would be a thicker deck over a L92 or 317 GM casting. And the flow numbers shown for stage III's on the patriot website are about 320 CFM for the intake. To me a budget turbo car does not need the best heads on the market because you can just add a couple pounds of boost to make up the difference.
I was contemplating H beam rods, forged pistons with patriot heads, but you have me thinking about just pushing a stock bock with ARP rod bolts! lol
My goal is a recession special, simple, cheap and fast to have fun at the track with. I would luv to see high 5's in the 1/8th ultimately. I will lighten the car as much as possible. I am thinking about 2800 lbs with a 10 pt cage and stripped out interior, fiberglass hood.
I am defintiely keeping an eye on this thread!
Thanks for any advice in advance.
Hpbob1
10-13-2009, 07:52 PM
#44
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Hi Parish,
Great thread. I am building my LQ4 based 88 5.0 hatch mustang, with a glide and probable S400 turbo for mostly 1/8 th mile drag racing. I may use a PT88 based on this thread.
I plan on keeping the fuel injection and runniung MSII mega squirt to control the injectors only and use the MSD box for the ignition. .....
......Because I am in California I cannot drive my car on the street and learn how to tune it as a daily street/strip driver car. How hard do you think this setup (MS for injectors, MSD box for timing) will be to tune for a race only track car at the track for a beginner?
My goal is about 1000 flywheel hp with the stock lQ4 short block with ARP rod bolts ARP head studs and cam and springs replacement, with maybe LS6 car intake or the new edelbrock XT, 80lb injectors, meth injection, air to air intercooler, 3.73 gears. I am debating whether to run the 317 stock heads or a set of patriot stage III heads for about 1200.00.
Have you heard anything about these patriot heads? They are 1/2 the price of AFR's. The main advantage to me would be a thicker deck over a L92 or 317 GM casting. And the flow numbers shown for stage III's on the patriot website are about 320 CFM for the intake. To me a budget turbo car does not need the best heads on the market because you can just add a couple pounds of boost to make up the difference.
I was contemplating H beam rods, forged pistons with patriot heads, but you have me thinking about just pushing a stock bock with ARP rod bolts! lol
My goal is a recession special, simple, cheap and fast to have fun at the track with. I would luv to see high 5's in the 1/8th ultimately. I will lighten the car as much as possible. I am thinking about 2800 lbs with a 10 pt cage and stripped out interior, fiberglass hood.
I am defintiely keeping an eye on this thread!
Thanks for any advice in advance.
Hpbob1
Great thread. I am building my LQ4 based 88 5.0 hatch mustang, with a glide and probable S400 turbo for mostly 1/8 th mile drag racing. I may use a PT88 based on this thread.
I plan on keeping the fuel injection and runniung MSII mega squirt to control the injectors only and use the MSD box for the ignition. .....
......Because I am in California I cannot drive my car on the street and learn how to tune it as a daily street/strip driver car. How hard do you think this setup (MS for injectors, MSD box for timing) will be to tune for a race only track car at the track for a beginner?
My goal is about 1000 flywheel hp with the stock lQ4 short block with ARP rod bolts ARP head studs and cam and springs replacement, with maybe LS6 car intake or the new edelbrock XT, 80lb injectors, meth injection, air to air intercooler, 3.73 gears. I am debating whether to run the 317 stock heads or a set of patriot stage III heads for about 1200.00.
Have you heard anything about these patriot heads? They are 1/2 the price of AFR's. The main advantage to me would be a thicker deck over a L92 or 317 GM casting. And the flow numbers shown for stage III's on the patriot website are about 320 CFM for the intake. To me a budget turbo car does not need the best heads on the market because you can just add a couple pounds of boost to make up the difference.
I was contemplating H beam rods, forged pistons with patriot heads, but you have me thinking about just pushing a stock bock with ARP rod bolts! lol
My goal is a recession special, simple, cheap and fast to have fun at the track with. I would luv to see high 5's in the 1/8th ultimately. I will lighten the car as much as possible. I am thinking about 2800 lbs with a 10 pt cage and stripped out interior, fiberglass hood.
I am defintiely keeping an eye on this thread!
Thanks for any advice in advance.
Hpbob1
that sounds like a lot to ask...
10-16-2009, 11:36 AM
#45
Yes 1000hp is a lot to ask. With forged H beam rods & pistons its a no brainer.
In the beginning I may just try to push the stock block LQ4 with just ARP rod bolts, cam, springs and retainer upgrades. Obviously the stock LQ4 shortblock can go pop at anytime.
Frank02L went 900hp at the crank on his stock block LQ4.
I am brand new to LS engines. Not to turbo charging and drag racing. Sorry about all the newb questions. Since my last post I have done lots of searching and just learning how to use this site.
Thanks for your patience and any advice guys. I am just about to start my LQ4 in a 88 5.0 mustang turbo build. Almost done with my research and ready to buy my LQ4 motor very soon. I will start a build thread soon too. Also watchin tirefryin s10's build thread. Damn good site guys!
Gettin damn enthused!!!
HpBob
In the beginning I may just try to push the stock block LQ4 with just ARP rod bolts, cam, springs and retainer upgrades. Obviously the stock LQ4 shortblock can go pop at anytime.
Frank02L went 900hp at the crank on his stock block LQ4.
I am brand new to LS engines. Not to turbo charging and drag racing. Sorry about all the newb questions. Since my last post I have done lots of searching and just learning how to use this site.
Thanks for your patience and any advice guys. I am just about to start my LQ4 in a 88 5.0 mustang turbo build. Almost done with my research and ready to buy my LQ4 motor very soon. I will start a build thread soon too. Also watchin tirefryin s10's build thread. Damn good site guys!
Gettin damn enthused!!!
HpBob
01-12-2010, 03:32 PM
#50
On The Tree
Hey parish, what is the status on the Fairmont? Going to keep beating on it or moving on to new things? That car is still a bad mother!!! Well the baddest I guess as far as stock long blocks are concerned!! Oh yeah, that mustang aughta be pretty insane as well!!!
Oh yeah, that mustang aughta be pretty insane as well!!!
01-13-2010, 01:51 AM
#52
On The Tree
OUCH!! That sucks, but I guess thats the best thing about a fairmont, you really can't get that upset if you bang one up!! Not to mention there are plenty more out there waiting!! That Nova wagon looks bad ***!! One more question, what ever happened to your truck? Haven't seen it since you won drag week with it.
02-08-2010, 06:48 AM
#53
the car is alive. it moved onto the trailer under it's own power. took it to C&S dynoshop and made a pile of runs. best numbers of 560rwhp not sure of the tq and i dont have a chart, we didnt' get a good final power pull that is worth posting up yet. we still need to take care of a couple of things before it is just right. i dont expect the numbers to go up but it should be a cleaner run. we got some wheel slip too on our last run wich help us to show a 1300ft/lb peek
the duel fuel is working great. smooth transition from pump to meth.
we are flowing 820lb/hr of meth and our injectors are at 100% above 5600rpm, thats 10 82lb injectors running 100% and i am acounting for fuel pressure across the injector. we should be ok for awhile since we can add a little more fuel pressure and even run the primary injectors for some fuel.
the monster fuel lab pump is working great so far.
we thought our wg was in a great location but i guess it just isn't enough. with a 5psi spring in there we see at least 10psi by 4000rpm and it is creeping up to 14psi by 5500rpm and then it really shoots up. we are going to stick a 2nd 44mm on there.
i got a few more pics of it and i think some ok video i will post up later. we were hoping for a little higher numbers considering we were seeing 14-15psi up top but tom the dyno owner is telling us that converter is really eating up our power. it is a coen 4000rpm. this was all on a mustang dyno.
car still needs some more work but it should be ready to hit up the track opening day. this car is a lot like the fairmont we had but with all the right places upgraded. our best numbers with the fairmont on that dyno were 535hp and we were able to run a 9.49 with that car. this car should be better in every way. less weight, alot more tire, better converter, more cubes, more turbo....
the duel fuel is working great. smooth transition from pump to meth.
we are flowing 820lb/hr of meth and our injectors are at 100% above 5600rpm
, thats 10 82lb injectors running 100% and i am acounting for fuel pressure across the injector. we should be ok for awhile since we can add a little more fuel pressure and even run the primary injectors for some fuel.the monster fuel lab pump is working great so far.
we thought our wg was in a great location but i guess it just isn't enough. with a 5psi spring in there we see at least 10psi by 4000rpm and it is creeping up to 14psi by 5500rpm and then it really shoots up. we are going to stick a 2nd 44mm on there.
i got a few more pics of it and i think some ok video i will post up later. we were hoping for a little higher numbers considering we were seeing 14-15psi up top but tom the dyno owner is telling us that converter is really eating up our power. it is a coen 4000rpm. this was all on a mustang dyno.
car still needs some more work but it should be ready to hit up the track opening day. this car is a lot like the fairmont we had but with all the right places upgraded. our best numbers with the fairmont on that dyno were 535hp and we were able to run a 9.49 with that car. this car should be better in every way. less weight, alot more tire, better converter, more cubes, more turbo....
02-08-2010, 03:08 PM
#56
yep, squirt for fueling, boost control, fuel pump control. msd box for timing, rev limit, 2step. it is also running a 10 chanel injector driver.
here is where the wg is located. seems like it would work well but it doesn't vent enough i guess. maybe i am looking at this wrong but to me this problem indicates an efficient set up. we need to vent a ton of exhaust to keep the boost down. lots of pics here >> http://www.neufamily.org/images/mike...ry/index_2.htm
here is where the wg is located. seems like it would work well but it doesn't vent enough i guess. maybe i am looking at this wrong but to me this problem indicates an efficient set up. we need to vent a ton of exhaust to keep the boost down. lots of pics here >> http://www.neufamily.org/images/mike...ry/index_2.htm
02-08-2010, 10:16 PM
#58
Parish,
A couple of questions:
Where do you get your hot side bends and flanges?
Do you think that a master power t70 with .96 ar will work OK on a mild 6.0 liter mustang build or is that too small?
Thanks
Chris
A couple of questions:
Where do you get your hot side bends and flanges?
Do you think that a master power t70 with .96 ar will work OK on a mild 6.0 liter mustang build or is that too small?
Thanks
Chris
