E36 BMW M3 LS1/ M6 has begun
12-25-2008, 07:14 PM
#41
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good info, are you running a throttle cable or drive by wire system? just trying to figure out if that harness schematics would work for my app and give you credit. So did you say that with the steering mod you were able to use some block hugger headers to fit? congrats on the timeline of completion, post up pics!
Last edited by Redy2Go WS6; 12-25-2008 at 07:23 PM.
12-25-2008, 07:22 PM
#42
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12-26-2008, 12:40 AM
#43
The shifter cup is the part that you see when the shifter is actually off of the trans... there is a nylon insert that goes into it. It has to be changed because the Fbody shifter doesnt fit correctly with the GTO cup (handle is positioned incorrectly and gears 1,3,5, & rev are difficult to engage). Search LS1Tech and you will find a great thread on this exact concern.
Regarding the steering column, I moved it toward the driver about 1.5". I cut the stock mounting point off, welded a flat plate & support bracket and drilled a few holes in the plate to match up with the stock bolt location. It sounds much more involved than what it really is. It was necessary to make clearance for the large steering joint that comes immediately out of the firewall. The steering shaft I made allowed me to use a set of Hooker block hugger headers that cost about 220.00, the steering shaft cost about 300.00 (3 joints, the shaft material, and support bearing). For 520.00 and a little patience I was able to avoid the 3,000 headers. Well worth the effort in my opinion. Clearance is tight, but it works...
I will try to get pics posted when it is completed. Sorry... but my time is better used right now finishing the car up so I can go waste my first set of tires!
Regarding the steering column, I moved it toward the driver about 1.5". I cut the stock mounting point off, welded a flat plate & support bracket and drilled a few holes in the plate to match up with the stock bolt location. It sounds much more involved than what it really is. It was necessary to make clearance for the large steering joint that comes immediately out of the firewall. The steering shaft I made allowed me to use a set of Hooker block hugger headers that cost about 220.00, the steering shaft cost about 300.00 (3 joints, the shaft material, and support bearing). For 520.00 and a little patience I was able to avoid the 3,000 headers. Well worth the effort in my opinion. Clearance is tight, but it works...
I will try to get pics posted when it is completed. Sorry... but my time is better used right now finishing the car up so I can go waste my first set of tires!
BOSS APPROVED!
It won't take but a few seconds to load up some pictures.
12-26-2008, 09:38 AM
#45
Congrats on your swap. One of my previous cars was a 99 M3. I loved that car, but it was way down on power in my opinion. You have just solved that problem! I may have to build one of these in the future now. It would make an awesome daily driver. I'm not as handy with a welder as you are though. Would you be able to make that piece you were talking about to move the steering 1.5" or supply some sort of diagram that I can have a shop local to me in Phoenix build one? The steering is the only part of the swap that is scaring me. Otherwise I think my tax refund money is going to be spent on looking for a E36 chassis.
12-26-2008, 09:45 AM
#46
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The shifter cup is the part that you see when the shifter is actually off of the trans... there is a nylon insert that goes into it. It has to be changed because the Fbody shifter doesnt fit correctly with the GTO cup (handle is positioned incorrectly and gears 1,3,5, & rev are difficult to engage). Search LS1Tech and you will find a great thread on this exact concern.
Regarding the steering column, I moved it toward the driver about 1.5". I cut the stock mounting point off, welded a flat plate & support bracket and drilled a few holes in the plate to match up with the stock bolt location. It sounds much more involved than what it really is. It was necessary to make clearance for the large steering joint that comes immediately out of the firewall. The steering shaft I made allowed me to use a set of Hooker block hugger headers that cost about 220.00, the steering shaft cost about 300.00 (3 joints, the shaft material, and support bearing). For 520.00 and a little patience I was able to avoid the 3,000 headers. Well worth the effort in my opinion. Clearance is tight, but it works...
I will try to get pics posted when it is completed. Sorry... but my time is better used right now finishing the car up so I can go waste my first set of tires!
Regarding the steering column, I moved it toward the driver about 1.5". I cut the stock mounting point off, welded a flat plate & support bracket and drilled a few holes in the plate to match up with the stock bolt location. It sounds much more involved than what it really is. It was necessary to make clearance for the large steering joint that comes immediately out of the firewall. The steering shaft I made allowed me to use a set of Hooker block hugger headers that cost about 220.00, the steering shaft cost about 300.00 (3 joints, the shaft material, and support bearing). For 520.00 and a little patience I was able to avoid the 3,000 headers. Well worth the effort in my opinion. Clearance is tight, but it works...
I will try to get pics posted when it is completed. Sorry... but my time is better used right now finishing the car up so I can go waste my first set of tires!
Its also buried in a few feet of snow right now, so it wont get any more love until its dug out 
glad you got the hookers to fit, I have a set lying around that I've been meaning to test fit as well...nice to know there is another option besides the Sandersons. Throw some pics up when you get a chance! 
12-26-2008, 04:34 PM
#48
Congrats on your swap. One of my previous cars was a 99 M3. I loved that car, but it was way down on power in my opinion. You have just solved that problem! I may have to build one of these in the future now. It would make an awesome daily driver. I'm not as handy with a welder as you are though. Would you be able to make that piece you were talking about to move the steering 1.5" or supply some sort of diagram that I can have a shop local to me in Phoenix build one? The steering is the only part of the swap that is scaring me. Otherwise I think my tax refund money is going to be spent on looking for a E36 chassis.
I will get get pics posted as soon as I can, apparently there is a ton of interest in this project.
12-26-2008, 04:35 PM
#49
good info, are you running a throttle cable or drive by wire system? just trying to figure out if that harness schematics would work for my app and give you credit. So did you say that with the steering mod you were able to use some block hugger headers to fit? congrats on the timeline of completion, post up pics!
12-29-2008, 07:58 AM
#53
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I see that LS1 in M3 is quite popular 
I have BMW M3 E36. Previous engine: 3.2. Right now: 5.7 LS1. Here are some pictures:
http://www.karolinapilarczyk.pl/silnik/silnik.html
And here engine first start up:
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y38...3112008002.flv
I have BMW M3 E36. Previous engine: 3.2. Right now: 5.7 LS1. Here are some pictures:http://www.karolinapilarczyk.pl/silnik/silnik.html
And here engine first start up:
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y38...3112008002.flv
12-29-2008, 12:53 PM
#55
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The shifter cup is the part that you see when the shifter is actually off of the trans... there is a nylon insert that goes into it. It has to be changed because the Fbody shifter doesnt fit correctly with the GTO cup (handle is positioned incorrectly and gears 1,3,5, & rev are difficult to engage). Search LS1Tech and you will find a great thread on this exact concern.
01-14-2009, 09:15 PM
#58
Ok, here is the latest update.
The car runs, I drove it around the block several times. I had to "mark" my territory on the maiden voyage! Good thing my neighbors are good people
There are a few probs that need to be dealt with-
Electric fan blade came apart (didnt destroy radiator)
Hydroboost is binding up, causing front brakes to lock down, gets worse as you drive further distances.
Drive line is rubbing on exhaust heat shield every so slightly
SES light is on, MAF AND o2 codes present
For anyone that is curious how the car stops with the hydroboost, it is incredible. The brakes feel 10x better than they did with the stock master cylinder. As long as you get one that isnt trying to work all the time...
I also picked up a set of E46 M3 front seats, as my driver Vader is torn pretty bad. The bolt holes in the rails are really close to just bolting in, so fitment is no problem. There is a +12 power wire, and a ground wire... and now we have power/ lumbar seats.
Pics of the entire project are coming soon!
The car runs, I drove it around the block several times. I had to "mark" my territory on the maiden voyage! Good thing my neighbors are good people
There are a few probs that need to be dealt with-
Electric fan blade came apart (didnt destroy radiator)
Hydroboost is binding up, causing front brakes to lock down, gets worse as you drive further distances.
Drive line is rubbing on exhaust heat shield every so slightly
SES light is on, MAF AND o2 codes present
For anyone that is curious how the car stops with the hydroboost, it is incredible. The brakes feel 10x better than they did with the stock master cylinder. As long as you get one that isnt trying to work all the time...
I also picked up a set of E46 M3 front seats, as my driver Vader is torn pretty bad. The bolt holes in the rails are really close to just bolting in, so fitment is no problem. There is a +12 power wire, and a ground wire... and now we have power/ lumbar seats.
Pics of the entire project are coming soon!