Wiring a LS1 into a LT1 Car
#102
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This is pretty funny. But it must be an Arkansas thing. There's a POS that talks alot of **** on Thumpertalk too.
As a matter of fact, they kinda look the same. Must be an inbred thing.
On subject: Wiring in with cheap connectors and such is kind of stupid. If it works for one may not work for another. Why compromise performance with cheap hardware.
I've been watching alot of these threads preparing for a LS swap into an S-10 for my son. This is just rediculous. Ignorance shows true personality. Total douche!
As a matter of fact, they kinda look the same. Must be an inbred thing.
On subject: Wiring in with cheap connectors and such is kind of stupid. If it works for one may not work for another. Why compromise performance with cheap hardware.
I've been watching alot of these threads preparing for a LS swap into an S-10 for my son. This is just rediculous. Ignorance shows true personality. Total douche!
#104
10 Second Club
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Got a question for you. I just picked up an incomplete project from a guy. Its a 97 v6 hard top car. Has a full 98' ls swap in it, including the wiring from the firewall-fwd harness (fuse box etc) With the key on and jumping the starter it starts, runs and drives fine. My question is, would it just be easier to get a cluster and dash harness from a 98 car to put in the interior or try to figure out the wiring differences between the two. My main concern is the fat disconnect under the brake booster. The HVAC, Radio, Guages etc are currently INOP. Just wondering if you had ever messed with a setup like this.
#105
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Hey Merv. Out of curiosity, if I swap an LS dash with dash harness into my car (94 Z28), how much easier will all of the harness nonsense be if I get a factory fbody ls harness?
#106
My apologies..just noticed these posts..
That connection under the Booster isnt that big of a concern here..what seems to be the issue is the connections under the Glove Box, that is where the Gauge Signals are. The wires aren't lined up right.
What is wrong with the Radio, just not working?
You swapping in the LS Engine with LS Gauge Cluster too? That is the plan?
Got a question for you. I just picked up an incomplete project from a guy. Its a 97 v6 hard top car. Has a full 98' ls swap in it, including the wiring from the firewall-fwd harness (fuse box etc) With the key on and jumping the starter it starts, runs and drives fine. My question is, would it just be easier to get a cluster and dash harness from a 98 car to put in the interior or try to figure out the wiring differences between the two. My main concern is the fat disconnect under the brake booster. The HVAC, Radio, Guages etc are currently INOP. Just wondering if you had ever messed with a setup like this.
What is wrong with the Radio, just not working?
You swapping in the LS Engine with LS Gauge Cluster too? That is the plan?
#109
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I was wondering the same thing. I found the dash and engine bay harness from a guy out in CA. The dash harness separate from the rest of the body harness? I'm trying to simplify as much as possible.
#110
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My apologies..just noticed these posts..
That connection under the Booster isnt that big of a concern here..what seems to be the issue is the connections under the Glove Box, that is where the Gauge Signals are. The wires aren't lined up right.
What is wrong with the Radio, just not working?
You swapping in the LS Engine with LS Gauge Cluster too? That is the plan?
That connection under the Booster isnt that big of a concern here..what seems to be the issue is the connections under the Glove Box, that is where the Gauge Signals are. The wires aren't lined up right.
What is wrong with the Radio, just not working?
You swapping in the LS Engine with LS Gauge Cluster too? That is the plan?
i ended up getting a 98 interior harness and making everything a direct plug in... radio was INOP because upon further inspection there was no amp in the back (monsoon setup). Got one of those and everything is good now. IGN switch was bad too so swapped that out as well. Been driving it for about 3 weeks now.
#111
hey, i am doing an engine swap in my 1995 firebird. it had a 3.4 v6 that i am replacing with a 1998 ls1 5.7. i need help with the under dash wiring. the 3.4 has four under dash connectors two blacks a blue and a white. the ls1 harness has three a blue a white and a clear. i need to know what wires i need to re pin to my 3.4 harness to make the under dash connections. any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated.
#113
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Can anyone help me here? I feel like I'm missing something from the equation.
I have 1996 V6 complete harness and a 2004 LQ9 engine harness from an escalade that came complete with the LQ9 I got from the junk yard.
I'm trying to incorporate the LQ9 harness to the V6 harness so that it plugs into the C210, C220, and C230 connectors by the passenger side kick panel
The LQ9 harness includes an AWD plug and trans range plug and has the Green/Blue PCM connectors. I guess I start looking at the 2 harnesses and it starts confusing me
I have 1996 V6 complete harness and a 2004 LQ9 engine harness from an escalade that came complete with the LQ9 I got from the junk yard.
I'm trying to incorporate the LQ9 harness to the V6 harness so that it plugs into the C210, C220, and C230 connectors by the passenger side kick panel
The LQ9 harness includes an AWD plug and trans range plug and has the Green/Blue PCM connectors. I guess I start looking at the 2 harnesses and it starts confusing me
#115
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Yeah I'm definitely going DBC. I've been trying to map out what I'm going to need do but I think I'm probably still going to need to build a fuse block/relay type setup like what's shown at lt1swap.com. I'm just going through the main pins on the lq9 harness for the past couple of days and tagging what's not need. Can you think of anything special I should keep on the trans or AWD plug? I'll be going rmvb TH400 w/t-brake. I guess I could always add back what I would be needed if anything.
As far as I can tell right now, I just need to disable the VATS, tie all of my injector power leads together, the same with the O2 heaters and coil leads. Then find a separate 12v source for those. Implant the connectors from the v6 harness onto the lq9 so that its plug and play to the body and it should be done. I'm also wondering if I can use the original 96 U/H fuse/relay box instead of having to build one.
My ultimate goal is to have this running and plug and play so that I should still be able to use the original DLC and CEL
As far as I can tell right now, I just need to disable the VATS, tie all of my injector power leads together, the same with the O2 heaters and coil leads. Then find a separate 12v source for those. Implant the connectors from the v6 harness onto the lq9 so that its plug and play to the body and it should be done. I'm also wondering if I can use the original 96 U/H fuse/relay box instead of having to build one.
My ultimate goal is to have this running and plug and play so that I should still be able to use the original DLC and CEL