jashell1562

iTrader: (2)

Edelbrock Victor JR....

DrededSS

iTrader: (4)

Have any of you 68-72 nova guys installed a manual flaming river setup in the car? Instructions tell you to drop the engine in and find the highest possible spot to install the rack, but I'd like to have everything else done before I get the engine.

BTW, I'm doing a LQ9 with 8-71 in my 72 SS.

68 RS Convertible

iTrader: (1)

I think I have just under 4 1/2 inches, just eyeballing it with a tape measure. Hope that helps.

coolguy802000

iTrader: (1)

Bump My thread...

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

here's my fuel system. i went the walbro and vette fpr route. ran lines from my fuel cell in front of my rear bumper, down the inside of the driver's side rail. walbro pump and trick flow pre-filter sit above the rear axle, and the vette fpr is ahead of them connected to hard line to the front. those were the best places i could find for the stuff to keep it tucked away.

philntx

iTrader: (8)

Just read this:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...1972-nova.html

coolguy802000

iTrader: (1)

Bump 4 the nova lovers

burntblues

I've got a 1972 nova w/ an inline 6 that I'm planning on swapping a 5.3 into. It looks intimidating. My main concern right now is 1. I want to bolt it up to the Powerglide in the car (money reasons). Will the thing just drop in? I don't understand why it is people are buying these set back plates (haven't done a single measurement)? I think I have to get a set of v8 engine mounts for the frame. Did they move the location of the engine mounts or something? Other issue is bolting the torque converter up. Has anyone done that with a powerglide? I seem to recall that the powerglide and TH350 are common on their bolt patterns etc.

And do we know for sure that an F-Body pan will work?

I don't meant to hijack, but I want to atleast see the motor in the car... properly.....

Thanks!
Mike

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

This is sketchy. Any properly-engineered rack system (power or manual) needs to be located at a specific spot on the front subframe in order to get proper steering geometry. Any slight variations (maybe even down to 1/8") in mounting location from what the manufacturer designed on their computers could severely alter the steering behavior, in particular the bump steer, which is desired to be as little as possible.

If in the instructions, the rack mounting location is left completely arbitrary and up to the installer's discretion, this should throw up bright red flags. You should try to get exact location dimensions, or ideally a template, from Flaming River...

Midnightnova

iTrader: (1)

Another option is converting your stock tank to a sump tank for little or no money and using a inline pump that is what I did.

strtlegal

iTrader: (2)

where did you mount your pump at?? how close to the outlet was it??

Midnightnova

iTrader: (1)

I mounted the pump it on the back side of where the back seat would be under the car(sorry if my wording is confusing). The actual sump it self was welded on the lowest point of my stock tank. Here is the link they come in 3/8 and 1/2 you get the picture.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CEE-4040/

strtlegal

iTrader: (2)

Thats not to high??

Midnightnova

iTrader: (1)

High for what if the sump is at the bottom of the tank if you undo the hose at the pump the gas will just shoot out it is gravity fed to that point.

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

my walbro's right at the bump stop for the rear axle, driver's side. haven't tested it yet though.

coolguy802000

iTrader: (1)

Has Anyone used Trans-Dapt Motor Mounts??? And I Need a Set of Headers...Cars out the Body Shop...I need to Re-Wire the Car and I Need a Good Radiator and a Nice Set of Headers.

coolguy802000

iTrader: (1)

I thought I would Post more pics up...Cars almost Done...

coolguy802000

iTrader: (1)

UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE

coolguy802000

iTrader: (1)

UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE

coolguy802000

iTrader: (1)