Oil pan sealing?
Oil pan sealing? Just got my GTO oil pan welded up but I'm concerned about the gaps left inside the pan. I cut the filler plates to fit the opening closely, then had it welded, but there are some very small gaps on the inside between my 0.190" thick plates and the pan (0.175" IIRC). Should I aluminum solder or JB Weld the joint on the inside? Now's the time to do it since it is clean and it would be nearly impossible to seal once the oil is in there.
Thanks,
Mike
Thanks,
Mike
No sarcasm here - a reminder to self to not overthink the problem!! Just because I have an air compressor doesn't mean it has to be used everywhere. :-))
Thanks,
Mike
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,148
Likes: 12
From: Downers Grove, IL
Water, gas or rubbing alcohol.
When I welded the bung in my trans pan I used gas to check it. I figured the gas was thinner than water so more likely to leak. If I would have had alcohol available I would have used that........thinner solvent = more likely to leak and I wanted to find the leaks before I put that trans pan back up.
When I welded the bung in my trans pan I used gas to check it. I figured the gas was thinner than water so more likely to leak. If I would have had alcohol available I would have used that........thinner solvent = more likely to leak and I wanted to find the leaks before I put that trans pan back up.
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Tried water and found two porosities in the welds. Tried to have them ground out and rewelded but that didn't cure it. I tried some aluminum solder, which flowed on beautifully then cracked as it cooled. %^&*()_ and other terms.
Any suggestions as to some non-metallic solutions? JB Weld? Devcon Metal Repair epoxies??
Thanks,
Leaky Mike
Any suggestions as to some non-metallic solutions? JB Weld? Devcon Metal Repair epoxies??
Thanks,
Leaky Mike
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Teching In
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Waterford, MI
Wicking grade loctite threadlocker. I've got #290, but I tink any wicking grade will do. I've used it before to seal up porosity in an aluminum fuel tank I made for an open wheel formula car. It's the same stuff that they use when they say they are impregnating a casting to get it to stop leaking. Last I checked the gas tank had never leaked and it's had everything from straight gasoline to ethanol and methonal in it through some different fuel system conversions.
Heat the pan up pretty hot to boil anything out then clean the area with rubbing alcohol and let the alcohol leak through the porosity then cool down. Heat it up again to around 150F then apply loctite (it must be for already assembled fasteners). As it cools the contracting air in the porosity will pull the loctite in and then it will set up because the porosity is generally the same size gaps as fasteners have in them. If u've got access to a vacuum tank it works even better. That's what they use to do the castings. The vacuum helps draw it in too.
Heat the pan up pretty hot to boil anything out then clean the area with rubbing alcohol and let the alcohol leak through the porosity then cool down. Heat it up again to around 150F then apply loctite (it must be for already assembled fasteners). As it cools the contracting air in the porosity will pull the loctite in and then it will set up because the porosity is generally the same size gaps as fasteners have in them. If u've got access to a vacuum tank it works even better. That's what they use to do the castings. The vacuum helps draw it in too.
