T56 Floor choppin
T56 Floor choppin Im doing a A body ls1/T56 swap. Gotta cut the floor. Everybody does their floor mods a little differently. Or later wished they did them another way.
Whats the best way to do it and why?
Whats the best way to do it and why?
Andrew
I cut the top off and has a sheet metal top formed and welded in place.
If you have adapter plates that keep the engine forward you might not have to cut as much, but the more you move the engine back and up.. the more likely you will have to cut more of the floor plan and also in to the firewall.
Check some of the A-Body swaps in the FAQ for pictures of who did what and how much they had to cut.
If you have adapter plates that keep the engine forward you might not have to cut as much, but the more you move the engine back and up.. the more likely you will have to cut more of the floor plan and also in to the firewall.
Check some of the A-Body swaps in the FAQ for pictures of who did what and how much they had to cut.
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 109
Likes: 12
From: Memphis, Tennessee
My son and I are sightly ahead of you on a 66 GTO. We installed a 6.0 / T56 in the car. We used new floor pans, and a tranny hump and tunnel from a 2000 camaro. It was a lot of welding, but he will not be worried about clearance issues if he decides to put airbags on the car later. You can see pictures of the Swap (see entry 23 and 24) at my blog (1966GTO) at http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...ournalid=64007
if i could find a floor out of a f body that might work. im at a loss on what to do with it. i cut a huge hole and was going to have a floor fabricated from scratch. the body guys i know told me to pull the engine and trans out before i take it to them.
but if i was going to weld it id want to tac it in place then pull everything out and finish the floor fab. i just dont want to do this over again. and i want access to the bell housing bolts, reverse lockout, reverse switch and hydraulic lines from underneith. im NOT pulling the motor to do a clutch.
another problem i keep seeing is how high the floor should be off the trans. it looks like i could just slide the cross member straight back and the trans would fall but last time i pulled the cross member out i had the tranny jacked so far up the tail shaft was inside the car to get X member turned under the transmission to get it out of the frame. there has got to be a better way.
im to the point were i just want them to weld the floor back in stock location and ill do the T cut myself and ill find out how big the gap should be and have them weld up the gaps.
but if i was going to weld it id want to tac it in place then pull everything out and finish the floor fab. i just dont want to do this over again. and i want access to the bell housing bolts, reverse lockout, reverse switch and hydraulic lines from underneith. im NOT pulling the motor to do a clutch.
another problem i keep seeing is how high the floor should be off the trans. it looks like i could just slide the cross member straight back and the trans would fall but last time i pulled the cross member out i had the tranny jacked so far up the tail shaft was inside the car to get X member turned under the transmission to get it out of the frame. there has got to be a better way.
im to the point were i just want them to weld the floor back in stock location and ill do the T cut myself and ill find out how big the gap should be and have them weld up the gaps.
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 122
Likes: 1
From: Richmond, VA
I did a t-cut forward of the stock shifter hole in my 68 GTO, and completely replaced all of the transmission tunnel rear of that. I cut more and more out as I was putting the drive-train in because I wanted to do the minimum amount of cutting.
Once I got the transmission and engine bolted in I used wood shims to space out the remaining portion of the transmission tunnel and welded about a 3" wide strip of 16gage sheet to give it shape.
After that was done I pulled the transmission out from underneath with the engine still in (so that should prove your clutch swap can be done). I hammered out the firewall where it meets the tunnel so it would match as much as possible and ended up filling in a size-able gap with weld. It's not the prettiest solution, but it works.
For the remaining section I got big sheets of construction paper to figure out what shape the sheet metal had to be before I bent it (basically I made the tunnel out of paper first). Luckily my leg ended up being nearly a perfect buck to bend the steel.
You can look at my thread if you want to see pictures, or let me know if you have other questions.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...version-2.html
Once I got the transmission and engine bolted in I used wood shims to space out the remaining portion of the transmission tunnel and welded about a 3" wide strip of 16gage sheet to give it shape.
After that was done I pulled the transmission out from underneath with the engine still in (so that should prove your clutch swap can be done). I hammered out the firewall where it meets the tunnel so it would match as much as possible and ended up filling in a size-able gap with weld. It's not the prettiest solution, but it works.
For the remaining section I got big sheets of construction paper to figure out what shape the sheet metal had to be before I bent it (basically I made the tunnel out of paper first). Luckily my leg ended up being nearly a perfect buck to bend the steel.
You can look at my thread if you want to see pictures, or let me know if you have other questions.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...version-2.html
