Camaro Ken

Is there any difference in yeear one big block stands and any other big block stands. I have yet to remaove the existing 454 from my engine bay but i figure if they'll work y not leave them there instead of "locating" the motor.

JML55

what is the part # on those edelbrook headers?
Thanks,

johnson73801

iTrader: (3)

chevy used to frame stands the shortandfat and the tallandskinny. i belieive that the bbc used the short ones

Marktainium

Take a look at this thread, sums up the engine mount situation...



https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ml#post9054000

Najania

How far along are you with the project?

BanditDave

iTrader: (11)

Used BRP's Updated kit along with their stepped headers and am very happy with the fit and finish. Yes I used the LH8 pan and yes I lowered the suspension a lot, but I am not worried. I have a '78 TA, LS1, magnacharged...hopefully be able to drive the stinking thing soon!

camrs73

4572 are just the plates without the early style mounts if you have the clamshell style mounts

Rick Speed

iTrader: (55)

I'll be doing one of these swaps also this summer. Just made a sweet deal on a 79 TA

Jimbo1367

pics people. we need more detailed pics of different mounts with pan and bellhousing clearance. Also. if plates are used. how about stating what "setback" they are.
thanks,
Jim

Ravenous T\A

iTrader: (12)

I swapped my LH8 pan for the Moroso Unit, alot better clearence, That LH8 was a hazard.

Elec87

iTrader: (49)

The brp kits lack quality and real world fitment, I have seen several units that they claim to have built complete cars with that just don't fit. You can't jack a motor up to the moon just to make the stock accessories work, it also creates terrible driveline angles and trans tunnel clearances. I used the carshop 1" setback plates on my conversion, With the 4l60e I will just have to redrill the stock crossmember location for it all to work. The firewall clearance is excellent and the alternator works in the factory location.

shovelhead73

The edelbrock plates work with the clam shell mounts and no motor relocation is required. If you have clam shell mounts don't switch to the big block mounts, you'll have to drill new mounting holes. Also the clam shell mounts are better than the big block mounts, less likley to break with bigger power and provide superior vibration isolation. The edelbrock headers are the best buy for stainless and fit well with no clearance issues. Steer clear of BRP and Street & Performance, overpriced with and no engineering. They're garage shops who throw pieces together, case in point using a truck pan to make their plates work. Good luck, stick with it, you won't be disappointed.....

Elec87

iTrader: (49)

Here are a few pics I snapped










If you have a F body pan I would use it as it has zero clearance issues.

My engine was busy playing in the mud and forgot to take a bath prior to this....

Jimbo1367

LOL. I was thinking the same thing. LOL.Thanks. That helped alot.

Jimbo1367

Don't these f-bodys use a different trans crossmember depending on th350 vs th400? Which did you use?
thanks,
Jim

1976CamaroGuy

iTrader: (8)

I noticed your using the F-body alternator bracketry and alternator.....have you tried bolting up the drag link and pittman arm yet/ Any clearance issues?

I'm at this stage and my pitman arm is hitting the alternator...

What are you other second gen guys using for bracketry?

Marktainium

I used all F-body brackets and accesories. I used the Trans Dapt motor mount plates, no setback, ( I think ), and the pitman arm misses my alternator by very little, maybe 1/2". * I welded up my subframe and positioned the motor where I wanted it for front to back, marked it, then drilled the holes and bolted it down.

1976CamaroGuy

iTrader: (8)

yeah my motor mount plates are 1" set-backs...that may be my problem.

johnson73801

iTrader: (3)

ok finally comin back around to this, ordering the headers and mounts tommorow and working on locating the proper engine and trans for the project.

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

I'm using a 2001 LS1 longblock from a Corvette, with the stock batwing oil pan. The headers are Edelbrock 65073's and my motor mounts are Moroso SB Chevy Solid mounts, and offset locator plates. The mounts are welded to the frame. My trans is a early 70s TH350 in the the stock location, with a stock cross member.

Explanation of pics:

The engine is "mocked up" right now. It's running, but my wires are a bit cluttered.

Pic #1 shows oil pan, with engine in place. Yellow arrow indicates where I drilled and tapped a new oil drain plug. The Red arrow shows the original plug. It won't come out all the way with the engine in place, and would make a big mess on the frame even if it could.


pic #2 shows driver side of engine, with the engine mount appearing clearly. The lower half is welded to the frame. I am using a Holley commander 950 EFI and Edelbrock intake/controller. I wanted my shaker hood to remain operational AND I had the 950 sitting around from a previous engine. It runs beautifully.


pic#3 shows a few mods I did to make this work.

• Blue arrow indicates my positive battery junction post. A BMW 328 gave this up. My battery is in the trunk, and I wanted convenient location to disconnect the battery which I was poking around under the hood. The thick red/green wire coming into the junction is the lead from the battery. The black wire leading away is routed so that it goes nowhere near the header. No seen is the heat reflective wrap around the starter and the wires that lead to it.
• Green arrow indicates where I connected the tach output from the Edelbrock/MSD controller to the yellow/black striped ignition connection on the Holley Commander 950. IMPORTANT: for others considering this setup (doubtful, but you never know), DO NOT connect the yellow lead from the MSD to the solid yellow lead on the Holley. You might cook the ECU. The ECU is set to use GM Square wave tach signal.
• Yellow arrow indicates the relocated stock water temp sensor from the LS1. This is used by the commander 950 as well.
• Red arrow indicates the relocated stock water temp sensor for early chevy small blocks. It is 1/2 inch NPT, and I've got it mounted to/through 1/4 inch angle aluminum which has been trimmed to fit (hacksaw and file). It is grounded via a 6MM mount hole on the valve cover. The T-pipe came from Menards, along with the hose fittings.

I plan on getting the GM accessory drive kit 19155067 (Corvette style, with alternator up high) to complete this build.