Hello, just thought Id drop a line...
#22
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Not much to update with but I bought a few small things. I got In an accident and had to spend all my extra cash on my insurance deductible, 500.00 bucks that was supposed to be for my wiring harness and now my work might be going on strike
#29
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Just thought I would throw up a little update. I STILL HAVE A JOB!!! So I went out and bought a few parts:
New clutch slave cylinder bracket off Ebay for 50.00 bucks. Its actually nicer than I expected. Im just lining up the slave cylinder to my clutch pedal now.
I also bought some injectors, fuel rail and intake from LQ9CHEVELLE. I guess the factory truck injectors wont work (from what Ive heard) and the ugly truck fuel rail is 6'' above the ls1 intake.
I also guess Ive just had some bad luck lately, because I went to send off my wiring harness and computer to Wait4me performance and I could not find it? The only thing I can guess is it got thrown away when my brother cleared a spot to store his truck in my garage
But I found the wheels I plan to buy. Intro GTsports.....SICK
New clutch slave cylinder bracket off Ebay for 50.00 bucks. Its actually nicer than I expected. Im just lining up the slave cylinder to my clutch pedal now.
I also bought some injectors, fuel rail and intake from LQ9CHEVELLE. I guess the factory truck injectors wont work (from what Ive heard) and the ugly truck fuel rail is 6'' above the ls1 intake.
I also guess Ive just had some bad luck lately, because I went to send off my wiring harness and computer to Wait4me performance and I could not find it? The only thing I can guess is it got thrown away when my brother cleared a spot to store his truck in my garage
But I found the wheels I plan to buy. Intro GTsports.....SICK
#31
trans tunnel modifications
Thanks!!! basically all the truck engine blocks (4.8 5.3 6.0 6.2) are physically identical on the exterior as any ls1 ls2 or ls6, so yes everything from a ls style t56 will bolt perfectly to any truck motor. The only thing you have to buy/install is a new pilot bushing along with the obvious flywheel, clutch and trans. As for the trans tunnel, IT SUCKS!! that was the hardest part of doing the whole swap (so far). Welding, cutting and grinding for a couple of weeks. When using the factory crossmember is pretty easy, just cut and flip the perch and weld it back on. But cutting is optional, I have seen alot of kits that require no cutting for A- body cars, but I dont know how that affects the angle of the driveline and I wanted the engine to sit back and as low as possible. I ended up with 3 degrees on my driveline. I also looked into the area 51 kit and they must have sold to another company, here is the new website. LET ME KNOW IF YOU HAVE ANY MORE QUESTIONS
ALSO Kj598bbc HERE IS THE WEBSITE I WAS LOOKING AT FOR THE LS6 INTAKE SWAP
http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...t=359987&pp=10
http://www.actionspeedshop.com/parts...duct_info.html
ALSO Kj598bbc HERE IS THE WEBSITE I WAS LOOKING AT FOR THE LS6 INTAKE SWAP
http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...t=359987&pp=10
http://www.actionspeedshop.com/parts...duct_info.html
First all, great job so far and I'm following along with you for inspiration!!! I have a 69 Chevelle with no drivetrain and really would like to do a build like this.
Do you have any pictures you can share of your trans tunnel modifications? Did you use a kit of some sort or did you fabricate yourself? This is the one part of the build I haven't convinced myself I can do. I've always wanted LS motor with a 5 or 6 speed manual..
thx
#32
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Thanks for the compliments, and I did all the cutting fabrication myself and Im sorry I dont really have any pics, my camera broke when I cut the tunnel. I have a new camera now to take some pics of the finished tunnel if it helps?
As far as cutting the tunnel yourself I guess there are kits available that require very little cutting for fitting a t56 into 68-72 A-bodys that anybody can do. The reason I cut my tunnel is I wanted to have the engine sit back and as low as possible which the kit does not allow and I didnt have that much cash to spend on a kit. Here is a link:
http://www.brphotrods.com/1968-1972%...0a%20body.html
Hope this helps.
As far as cutting the tunnel yourself I guess there are kits available that require very little cutting for fitting a t56 into 68-72 A-bodys that anybody can do. The reason I cut my tunnel is I wanted to have the engine sit back and as low as possible which the kit does not allow and I didnt have that much cash to spend on a kit. Here is a link:
http://www.brphotrods.com/1968-1972%...0a%20body.html
Hope this helps.
#33
Orange-KR8, thanks for the information. This kit looks really nice. If you could take some pictures of the finished tunnel, that would be great.
I'm 99% sure this is the route I'm going to take with my car. I now need to find a motor and a t56!!!
In smoothing your firewall, I see you also removed and/or covered the heater hose attachments thru the firewall. What's your plan going forward?? A Vintage Air system?? Just curious as I'd like to smooth my firewall as well, but don't have it in my budget now for a Vintage system. Just wondering what other options are out there.
thx
I'm 99% sure this is the route I'm going to take with my car. I now need to find a motor and a t56!!!
In smoothing your firewall, I see you also removed and/or covered the heater hose attachments thru the firewall. What's your plan going forward?? A Vintage Air system?? Just curious as I'd like to smooth my firewall as well, but don't have it in my budget now for a Vintage system. Just wondering what other options are out there.
thx
#34
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In smoothing my firewall I planned to eliminate my heater all together (it barely worked anyway) and I was planning on going with an under dash heating only unit. There are alot of other companys other that Vintage.
This is the cheapest heater only unit I can find that Is actually hidden under the dash. I was planning on going with the upgraded hurricane unit that has defrost. Hope this helps.
ttp://www.oldairproducts.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=30000000_32000000_32300000_3230200 0
This is the cheapest heater only unit I can find that Is actually hidden under the dash. I was planning on going with the upgraded hurricane unit that has defrost. Hope this helps.
ttp://www.oldairproducts.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=30000000_32000000_32300000_3230200 0
#35
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I went with a Southern Air heat & air system from Southern Rods which will allow me to maintain a smooth firewall. It's not a direct-fit system, so there will be some work involved in getting it mated up to the original vents, etc.
#37
Beautiful car, great post!
I'm deep into a swap of my own and my accessories (specifically my power steering pump) doesnt clear my steering box. My motor/accessories are from an Isuzu delivery truck, so does that mean our accessories are different? I assumed that (for the most part) anything with an LQ4 or LQ9 had the same accessories. Your pics make it look like you have miles of room between the power steering pump and the box.
How much clearance do you have there, and did you have to change / modify anything to get that clearance?
Thanks and great build!
I'm deep into a swap of my own and my accessories (specifically my power steering pump) doesnt clear my steering box. My motor/accessories are from an Isuzu delivery truck, so does that mean our accessories are different? I assumed that (for the most part) anything with an LQ4 or LQ9 had the same accessories. Your pics make it look like you have miles of room between the power steering pump and the box.
How much clearance do you have there, and did you have to change / modify anything to get that clearance?
Thanks and great build!
#38
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68HYBRID, I would be shocked to find out that the front pulley setup would be any different, Its all made by GM. As far as my setup, I checked and I could just barely fit my thumb in between the pulley and steering box. All I did to alter any clearance was lift the motor up with thicker motor mount perches (3/8 on each side) HOPE THIS HELPS!!!