My Nova's LM7 Transplant
02-21-2009, 03:13 PM
#21
Staging Lane
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If you were to depin the circuits from the pcm connector that pertain to the transmission and had your vats disabled you will be fine.
If it is not programmed to a manual transmission you will just set circuit codes for things like shift solnoids and trans temp sensor. Your engine will not be in limp mode nor will your TAC be effected. If you have a check engine light connect (which i assume you wont?) you will never know.
All you HAVE to do to make the engine run/work is disable VATS
If it is not programmed to a manual transmission you will just set circuit codes for things like shift solnoids and trans temp sensor. Your engine will not be in limp mode nor will your TAC be effected. If you have a check engine light connect (which i assume you wont?) you will never know.
All you HAVE to do to make the engine run/work is disable VATS
02-21-2009, 06:45 PM
#22
As ForcedInduction said it's really the only thing that would need to be tuned out so the car can run (unless you get a "VATS box" but there's lots of varying opinions on those). W/o the VATS the engine is allowed to start and continue to run, and all the PCM will do is throw codes for whatever EGR/rear O2/manual trans/etc. sensors you haven't included in the conversion and thus the PCM cannot detect.
As for the other stuff about de-pinning... I have no idea, I just chose to tune my PCM instead.
02-21-2009, 10:23 PM
#23
Staging Lane
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VATS = Vehicle Anti Theft System
As ForcedInduction said it's really the only thing that would need to be tuned out so the car can run (unless you get a "VATS box" but there's lots of varying opinions on those). W/o the VATS the engine is allowed to start and continue to run, and all the PCM will do is throw codes for whatever EGR/rear O2/manual trans/etc. sensors you haven't included in the conversion and thus the PCM cannot detect.
As for the other stuff about de-pinning... I have no idea, I just chose to tune my PCM instead.
As ForcedInduction said it's really the only thing that would need to be tuned out so the car can run (unless you get a "VATS box" but there's lots of varying opinions on those). W/o the VATS the engine is allowed to start and continue to run, and all the PCM will do is throw codes for whatever EGR/rear O2/manual trans/etc. sensors you haven't included in the conversion and thus the PCM cannot detect.
As for the other stuff about de-pinning... I have no idea, I just chose to tune my PCM instead.
Another question. How hard is it to change fly-by-wire to cable? Do I just need to get the appropriate throttle body? Also, will an LS1 TB fit on a 5.3 intake?
02-21-2009, 10:37 PM
#24
So if I got my PCM tuned they could get rid of the VATS and all of the other codes (EGR/rear o2/manual trans/etc.)..?
Another question. How hard is it to change fly-by-wire to cable? Do I just need to get the appropriate throttle body? Also, will an LS1 TB fit on a 5.3 intake?
Another question. How hard is it to change fly-by-wire to cable? Do I just need to get the appropriate throttle body? Also, will an LS1 TB fit on a 5.3 intake?
You would need the cable throttlebody and possibly a different sensor connector at the TB end of the wiring harness, not sure on that though. Would also need to tune out the TAC/pedal throttle position input in the PCM. Obviously you would not need to source a DBW pedal and TAC box though, which is nice if you don't already have one.
I'm not positive whether an LS1 cable throttlebody will fit on a truck intake, but I believe the LS1 TB is 75mm and the truck TB is 78mm, and they both have a triangular 3-bolt pattern, so I would guess that they are interchangeable.
02-23-2009, 12:26 AM
#25
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Yes, there is a boatload of stuff that you can tune/tune out on the PCM, including all of what you mentioned.
You would need the cable throttlebody and possibly a different sensor connector at the TB end of the wiring harness, not sure on that though. Would also need to tune out the TAC/pedal throttle position input in the PCM. Obviously you would not need to source a DBW pedal and TAC box though, which is nice if you don't already have one.
I'm not positive whether an LS1 cable throttlebody will fit on a truck intake, but I believe the LS1 TB is 75mm and the truck TB is 78mm, and they both have a triangular 3-bolt pattern, so I would guess that they are interchangeable.
You would need the cable throttlebody and possibly a different sensor connector at the TB end of the wiring harness, not sure on that though. Would also need to tune out the TAC/pedal throttle position input in the PCM. Obviously you would not need to source a DBW pedal and TAC box though, which is nice if you don't already have one.
I'm not positive whether an LS1 cable throttlebody will fit on a truck intake, but I believe the LS1 TB is 75mm and the truck TB is 78mm, and they both have a triangular 3-bolt pattern, so I would guess that they are interchangeable.
02-24-2009, 03:46 AM
#28
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I did it on a newer drive by wire manifold, I had to cut off a vaccum nipple and plug it on the passenger of the manifold because the vaccum line is part of the throttle body on drive by cable. I just found a plug for the hole and used RTV to hold it in place(black), can't even tell there was a hole there. I also had to add a stud on the newer manifold to hold the throttle cable bracket in place on the top of the manifold. It would be easier to find a cheap good used one. Why not go with drive by wire? Whoever does your harness can give you everything you need to make it work or tell you where to find it.
02-24-2009, 10:15 AM
#30
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I did it on a newer drive by wire manifold, I had to cut off a vaccum nipple and plug it on the passenger of the manifold because the vaccum line is part of the throttle body on drive by cable. I just found a plug for the hole and used RTV to hold it in place(black), can't even tell there was a hole there. I also had to add a stud on the newer manifold to hold the throttle cable bracket in place on the top of the manifold. It would be easier to find a cheap good used one. Why not go with drive by wire? Whoever does your harness can give you everything you need to make it work or tell you where to find it.
And do you have any pictures of the cable-driven setup?
Last edited by 74NOVA; 02-24-2009 at 11:46 AM. Reason: Additional Question
02-24-2009, 11:37 PM
#32
I would PM John Spears. He's very knowledgeable and if anyone he's be able to help ya, assuming that doesn't go against his business morals!
02-26-2009, 10:27 AM
#34
for a return-style regulator, having it closer to the fuel cell cuts down on the length of the return line, making it a lot less cluttered under the car. it makes no difference otherwise, and it doesn't matter for dead-heads (which i wouldn't run anyway). i plan to run a corvette-style (WIX PN 33737) filter/regulator.
02-26-2009, 10:47 AM
#35
Staging Lane
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for a return-style regulator, having it closer to the fuel cell cuts down on the length of the return line, making it a lot less cluttered under the car. it makes no difference otherwise, and it doesn't matter for dead-heads (which i wouldn't run anyway). i plan to run a corvette-style (WIX PN 33737) filter/regulator.
02-26-2009, 11:24 AM
#37
Staging Lane
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I don't know maybe it just looks big to me haha. Anyways I just ordered one. Can't I just use FI hose with FI clamps?
02-26-2009, 11:31 AM
#38
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the one side "looks" so big because it is a 3/8" female quick connect fitting. It is the opposite of the other side which is the 3/8" male quick connect. of course the return is 5/16" male quick connect.....
Rob
Rob
02-26-2009, 11:33 AM
#39
Staging Lane
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Thanks man, gotta start eating breakfast before I post up.. Haha
02-26-2009, 11:43 AM
#40
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).Nevermind.. Just looked it up and they just sell the RUS-639210 equivalent (SUM-2200077)
Last edited by 74NOVA; 02-26-2009 at 12:02 PM. Reason: Correction