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Those running aftermarket gauges...

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Old 03-16-2009, 03:43 PM
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Default Those running aftermarket gauges...

What is the deal with the tach signal on these engines? I have all autometer gauges, all work but the tach so far. First I need to see if the signal is even present in the wire, so how and what am I looking to see in the test?

Autometer says I need part number 9117 which means I have to cut and splice into my coil power supplies..Obviously this is my last resort. I would like to know what everyone did in order to get their tach working properly. BTW I also have EFIlive if that helps matters.

Let me know, thanks.
Sam
Old 03-16-2009, 03:50 PM
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This is a pretty common question in this forum, if you search for

tach resistor
in this forum, you should find several threads with the answer.
Old 03-16-2009, 04:05 PM
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Not sure which engine or harness you are refering too but the ls1 engines have a single tach wire and to run the autometer tach you have to switch it to 4 cyl setting. To my knowledge the resistor is needed if you want to stop the low rpm 600-1000 needle flutter. Mine flutters a little at idle but I'm ok with it. Works fine for normal operation.
Old 03-16-2009, 04:19 PM
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So if my tach is currently on 8 cyl setting, it should read half as much, right? Are there any calibrations I can change of something with EFIlive?
Old 03-16-2009, 04:32 PM
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Sorry I can't answer that I am tuner illiterate. My autometer tach has a switch on the back of it to change from 4, 6, or 8 cyl.
Old 03-16-2009, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by samh_08
So if my tach is currently on 8 cyl setting, it should read half as much, right? Are there any calibrations I can change of something with EFIlive?
Yes, you should be able to change it with EFI live. Speartech changed mine so that it works with my Sun Tach in the 8 cylinder setting. Don't ask me how though.

Pat
Old 03-16-2009, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Stu Cool
Yes, you should be able to change it with EFI live. Speartech changed mine so that it works with my Sun Tach in the 8 cylinder setting. Don't ask me how though.

Pat
That assumes I even have a tach signal in the first place correct? Anyone know how to test this and what I should see?
Old 03-16-2009, 06:27 PM
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i just cranked my car for the first time today and no tach for me and oil pressure guage not working either. is there a port on these motors to put your own oil pressure sending unit
Old 03-16-2009, 11:19 PM
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If you have room you can pull the oil sending unit at the back of the intake manifold and replace it with your own sender. You will probably need a metric to SAE adapter, The ECU does not use an oil pressure signal, it is only for the gauge. Other folks have drilled and tapped the fitting down near the oil filter.

Pat
Old 03-17-2009, 05:02 AM
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what threads are the hole behind the intake
Old 03-17-2009, 08:18 AM
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...not to be an *** but you should probably make a different thread for your questions unrelated to the tach. I have yet to get my ?'s answered
Old 03-17-2009, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by samh_08
That assumes I even have a tach signal in the first place correct? Anyone know how to test this and what I should see?
Easiest way is to look with an oscilloscope. You should see a square wave with 5 volt (or 12 volt) amplitude. Stock ECM's are roughly 50 Hz or so at idle.

If you don't have a scope, you should measure something with an AC voltmeter if the signal is there. I'm guessing 3 to 5 volts AC.

Don
Old 03-17-2009, 01:18 PM
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I wouldnt have a scope readily available but I do have a hertz scale on my multimeter. Would that give me an accurate reading? Just to make sure, I would connect one lead of my meter to the tach signal wire and the other lead to ground?
Old 03-17-2009, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by samh_08
I wouldnt have a scope readily available but I do have a hertz scale on my multimeter. Would that give me an accurate reading? Just to make sure, I would connect one lead of my meter to the tach signal wire and the other lead to ground?
Yes, that should work for the frequency. It should be quite accurate and the frequency will vary as you vary the engine speed. Exact frequency is not critical. Using your multimeter set to AC volts you should also see the 3 to 5 volts or so.

Don
Old 03-17-2009, 04:42 PM
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I have no signal on the white wire (RPM out) from the PCM. Could I possibly use the Camshaft position sensor or something like that. I assume the PCM uses the cam sensor for RPM, right? Let me know ASAP, Thanks!
Old 03-17-2009, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by samh_08
I have no signal on the white wire (RPM out) from the PCM. Could I possibly use the Camshaft position sensor or something like that. I assume the PCM uses the cam sensor for RPM, right? Let me know ASAP, Thanks!
Why don't you try the 680 ohm pullup resistor from the tach wire to switched +12 first? It might help you. You can check for the signal the same way once you add the pullup.

Other than that I would probably go with the Autometer 9117.

Don
Old 03-17-2009, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by rockytopper
Not sure which engine or harness you are refering too but the ls1 engines have a single tach wire and to run the autometer tach you have to switch it to 4 cyl setting. To my knowledge the resistor is needed if you want to stop the low rpm 600-1000 needle flutter. Mine flutters a little at idle but I'm ok with it. Works fine for normal operation.
Mine flutters at idle also--doesn't read right,until about 1200rpm or so..then it is fine..mine is also 7 years old..5". YOU GOTTA run it in 4cyl mode for some reason.
Old 03-17-2009, 11:24 PM
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Just an FYI for everyone. I did the 680 pull up resistor and it works perfectly! I went in EFIlive and changed my tach signal parameters to what I needed for an 8 cyl. So no you do not have to change your tach to run in 4 cyl mode if you have tuning software to change the signal.



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