Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 12:22 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by bbeck
If I remember right, I read somewhere that you used the truck oil pan? If so, how much did you cut it down? If so, do you have pics of it?
I did use a truck pan but by the time I cut it down enough it only held 4 qts. I had to extend the front of the sump out for extra capacity plus modify the pickup tube. Now the pan looks just like an F-body pan. Just get one of those, it's would be way easier.
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 02:36 PM
  #22  
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well, I'd rather spend some time fabricating instead of spending a couple hundred bux..
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 08:05 PM
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If you've got the skill and equipment then sure, maybe it's worth it. I'd agree in almost anything else but reworking that oil pan wasn't worth it. Don't forget you have to baffle the new sump when you're done. My pickup was way at the back of the pan for the first year and pressure would drop if I got on the brakes hard. I reworked the pan baffles and pickup tube a few weeks ago and it's better now, but pressure still drops on a 100mph-0 run, even without extreme braking.
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 08:29 PM
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alright, I'll look into another pan then. It's just another couple hundred I wasn't planning on. Are the 5.3 pans different at all? I saw a page once that gave all the details to the different pans, but I forget where it was.
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 08:30 PM
  #25  
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n/m.. at the top of the conversion page
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 10:35 PM
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Truck pans are all the same. It's up to you whether it's worth it or not to modify it. I did another LS1 conversion this winter on my wife's 91 Camaro and I used an F-body pan. I got it from the classifieds here for $75 with pickup. It was slightly damaged but not enough that I actually had to fix it. I just used it as-is.
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Old Apr 25, 2009 | 01:47 AM
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Yeah, I'll just have to keep an eye out. The truck motors are cheap, but these other parts add up quick..
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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 07:00 AM
  #28  
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Could someone do me a favor that has as LSx flywheel sitting out? Please measure from the mating surface that bolts to the crank out to the clutch disc surface with a straight edge?
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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 10:42 AM
  #29  
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I just measured with a straight edge but used a tape measure so take note of that. 15/16" disk face to crank face on a stock ls1 flywheel.
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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 11:11 AM
  #30  
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thanks JDishong, now I just need to see if the stock 6.0L flywheel is at approximately 1/2"
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 08:36 PM
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Stock short crank (2001+) flywheel measures 1.1875 or 1 3/16".
JDishong could you measure from the flange to the ring gear on your flywheel? Thanks
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Old May 3, 2009 | 11:31 PM
  #32  
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In my 1961 Corvette I used a special GM flywheel and a pilot bearing made for the LS1 to Muncie trans. The bell housing I used is an old Lakewood blow proof model that has the bracket for the ball pivot. The bolt lined up, for most of the bell housing to engine, but for 2 of them. You can spend the extra money for the right bell housing, but I don’t think it’s needed. I got it on Ebay for $40 bucks. I also used a long adjustable pivot bolt for the clutch and had to weld and additional nut inside the bell housing for more adjustment. The clutch and pressure plate I used was a Center force set-up.

GM Early style 4 speed flywheel- PN 12561680
GM Special Pilot Bearing PN 12557583

Dave
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 08:58 PM
  #33  
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just some follow-up to this whole thing so far..

The crank to bellhousing is the same on the traditional big/small block compared to the 2000 6.0L ~ 11/16".

Now, the bolt pattern on the crank flange at the flywheel is completely different than my big block. However, it is very similar to newer one-piece rear main small blocks but all the holes don't line up- i compared an 80's flexplate to my 6.0.

Now, my big block flywheel is just shy of an inch- 31/32. From crank flange surface to clutch surface. So, as long as my BB clutch will bolt up to an ls1 flywheel or I can find one that has the correct depth and spline, I'll be all set. Anyone know if my old clutch will bolt up to the ls1 flywheel?
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by bbeck
just some follow-up to this whole thing so far..

The crank to bellhousing is the same on the traditional big/small block compared to the 2000 6.0L ~ 11/16".

Now, the bolt pattern on the crank flange at the flywheel is completely different than my big block. However, it is very similar to newer one-piece rear main small blocks but all the holes don't line up- i compared an 80's flexplate to my 6.0.

Now, my big block flywheel is just shy of an inch- 31/32. From crank flange surface to clutch surface. So, as long as my BB clutch will bolt up to an ls1 flywheel or I can find one that has the correct depth and spline, I'll be all set. Anyone know if my old clutch will bolt up to the ls1 flywheel?
I think small block clutches are very similar and you can just enlarge the holes a little bit. If BB clutches are the same you're golden.
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 09:18 PM
  #35  
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I know that the older SB and BB are the same- as I've been running a borg/beck three finger that I had built that my dad used to run on his SB. So, I might be all set to bolt up.
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 08:00 AM
  #36  
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I looked into this before I bought a Richmond 6 speed.
Get an LS1 flywheel, 621 BBC bell housing, and LS7 pilot bearing.
Now look up aftermarket clutch manufacturers, some list the same PN for 26 spline BBC disk and LS1 disk. That means both work with the same LS1 or BBC pressure plate. They also list the BBC 10 spline disk that work with the BBC pressure plate. So that 10 spline disk should work fine with the LS1 flywheel/pressure plate
I found all this in the Summit catalog.

Last edited by garys 68; Jan 26, 2010 at 12:43 PM.
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