swap prices range??????/
swap prices range??????/ i just had a question i have seen alot of you guys are doing or have done lsx swaps to different cars and i was wondering what's a rough estimate on how much a swap costs ........ i have a duster that i am thinking about doing a lsx swap into just don't know how much to expect to invest into this project
LOL...
If you wanna do a budget build... stay way from fast400 estimate.
I am not sure how much modding you have to do the the DUSTER to mount the motor and trans... BUT IF YOU AND your buddies are handy. It can be done on the cheap.
Me and my buddies are building a Carbed LS 5.3 truck motor with TH350 tranny... This is the cheapest way to go ... and we plan to go low 12s on the motor. should make about 375-395 to the wheels
we purchased a 5.3 used from Tahoe (complete for 750.00 no a/c compressor) 60k miles 2002 motor.
We picked up a used cam for $100.00 220 551/551
used edelbrock carbed RPM intake and computer for $450 (new 750)
Used C5 Zo6 manifolds 50.00
used 750 holley carb 100.00
used th350 (had it rebuilt good internals shift kit 500.00 in it)
new 3000 stall converter 250.00
Used set of milled (62cc 6.0 heads) 500.00 (same casting as LS6)
*** you can use 5.3 heads... I would mill them for more compression stock is 9.5 and a set of springs if you plan to change the cam...
We have little less than 3k in our motor with several mods...
customer made motor mounts and lots of little odds and ends. We are close to getting it fired up.
If you wanna do a budget build... stay way from fast400 estimate.
I am not sure how much modding you have to do the the DUSTER to mount the motor and trans... BUT IF YOU AND your buddies are handy. It can be done on the cheap.
Me and my buddies are building a Carbed LS 5.3 truck motor with TH350 tranny... This is the cheapest way to go ... and we plan to go low 12s on the motor. should make about 375-395 to the wheels
we purchased a 5.3 used from Tahoe (complete for 750.00 no a/c compressor) 60k miles 2002 motor.
We picked up a used cam for $100.00 220 551/551
used edelbrock carbed RPM intake and computer for $450 (new 750)
Used C5 Zo6 manifolds 50.00
used 750 holley carb 100.00
used th350 (had it rebuilt good internals shift kit 500.00 in it)
new 3000 stall converter 250.00
Used set of milled (62cc 6.0 heads) 500.00 (same casting as LS6)
*** you can use 5.3 heads... I would mill them for more compression stock is 9.5 and a set of springs if you plan to change the cam...
We have little less than 3k in our motor with several mods...
customer made motor mounts and lots of little odds and ends. We are close to getting it fired up.
For what it's worth, it is rarely cheaper to go carb, just better if you don't understand cars produced in the last 20 years.
The carb intake/ MSD box to run the coils/ carb itself cost can run anywhere from $550 for the used setup above to around $850 for the stuff new.
A harness to make it injected can run from $100-$150 used to $375 new and then a base PCM reflash can be anywhere from $100-$150
There are no savings going carb, that's all.
Read my swap sticky at the top of the page for more budget ideas and good luck, you will love it when it's done. Very much worth the effort.
The carb intake/ MSD box to run the coils/ carb itself cost can run anywhere from $550 for the used setup above to around $850 for the stuff new.
A harness to make it injected can run from $100-$150 used to $375 new and then a base PCM reflash can be anywhere from $100-$150
There are no savings going carb, that's all.
Read my swap sticky at the top of the page for more budget ideas and good luck, you will love it when it's done. Very much worth the effort.
holley505 has a pretty good recipe for a budget build. sounds like he got good deals on parts too.
But his list is missing a large number of incidentals. Like fuel system parts, cooling, gauge updates, wiring, exhaust, driveshaft, not to mentions fasteners-gaskets-chemicals. Each of those things can run from a little to a lot depending upon the specifics of your swap. But believe me the incidentals add up in a hurry. Little things like needing a different shifter, or some type of adapter to run the speedometer, or maybe having to swap out a master cylinder can run into unexpected $$. Not to mention if the truck accesories don't fit under your hood and force you to get a set of F body stuff. Plus the stuff you buy that you end up not using.
For what it is worth, I ended up spending about $14K for my basic motor swap. But that was with a brand new LS2 crate motor, new trans, new bellhousing/clutch, new carb, new ignition box and new headers. made all my own mounts, brackets, sensor changes and wiring. I also splurged on a mandrel bent exhaust ($1200) cause I didn't feel like investing the time
So my swap was definitely on the high side cause of the new parts.
But the carb did save me money cause I went with crate motor in a car that wasn't set up for FI. If you are going pull out then FI is probably cheaper as long as none of the used parts need replacing.
But his list is missing a large number of incidentals. Like fuel system parts, cooling, gauge updates, wiring, exhaust, driveshaft, not to mentions fasteners-gaskets-chemicals. Each of those things can run from a little to a lot depending upon the specifics of your swap. But believe me the incidentals add up in a hurry. Little things like needing a different shifter, or some type of adapter to run the speedometer, or maybe having to swap out a master cylinder can run into unexpected $$. Not to mention if the truck accesories don't fit under your hood and force you to get a set of F body stuff. Plus the stuff you buy that you end up not using.
For what it is worth, I ended up spending about $14K for my basic motor swap. But that was with a brand new LS2 crate motor, new trans, new bellhousing/clutch, new carb, new ignition box and new headers. made all my own mounts, brackets, sensor changes and wiring. I also splurged on a mandrel bent exhaust ($1200) cause I didn't feel like investing the time
So my swap was definitely on the high side cause of the new parts.
But the carb did save me money cause I went with crate motor in a car that wasn't set up for FI. If you are going pull out then FI is probably cheaper as long as none of the used parts need replacing.
I have about $4500 in my swap but I offset that by $2500 selling the 355 out of my Monza to start with. I know it can be done cheaper but know I have it the way I want it (for now!)
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Verdad Gallardo For what it's worth, it is rarely cheaper to go carb, just better if you don't understand cars produced in the last 20 years.
The carb intake/ MSD box to run the coils/ carb itself cost can run anywhere from $550 for the used setup above to around $850 for the stuff new.
A harness to make it injected can run from $100-$150 used to $375 new and then a base PCM reflash can be anywhere from $100-$150
There are no savings going carb, that's all.
Read my swap sticky at the top of the page for more budget ideas and good luck, you will love it when it's done. Very much worth the effort.
The carb intake/ MSD box to run the coils/ carb itself cost can run anywhere from $550 for the used setup above to around $850 for the stuff new.
A harness to make it injected can run from $100-$150 used to $375 new and then a base PCM reflash can be anywhere from $100-$150
There are no savings going carb, that's all.
Read my swap sticky at the top of the page for more budget ideas and good luck, you will love it when it's done. Very much worth the effort.
I guess you have been swapping into cars that may have had FI to start... your fuel system on a old skool car: High pressure pump, return lines, filter... pulling the tank....etc. cost is higher to me with FUEL Injection...
Unless you buy a pull out 5.3 run all the stock 5.3 harness, computer, and BIG UGLY intake and injectors... make up your on fuel system... to run on old school DODGE?? That was carbed from the factory??
i dunno...
holley505 has a pretty good recipe for a budget build. sounds like he got good deals on parts too.
But his list is missing a large number of incidentals. Like fuel system parts, cooling, gauge updates, wiring, exhaust, driveshaft, not to mentions fasteners-gaskets-chemicals. Each of those things can run from a little to a lot depending upon the specifics of your swap. But believe me the incidentals add up in a hurry. Little things like needing a different shifter, or some type of adapter to run the speedometer, or maybe having to swap out a master cylinder can run into unexpected $$. Not to mention if the truck accesories don't fit under your hood and force you to get a set of F body stuff. Plus the stuff you buy that you end up not using.
For what it is worth, I ended up spending about $14K for my basic motor swap. But that was with a brand new LS2 crate motor, new trans, new bellhousing/clutch, new carb, new ignition box and new headers. made all my own mounts, brackets, sensor changes and wiring. I also splurged on a mandrel bent exhaust ($1200) cause I didn't feel like investing the time
So my swap was definitely on the high side cause of the new parts.
But the carb did save me money cause I went with crate motor in a car that wasn't set up for FI. If you are going pull out then FI is probably cheaper as long as none of the used parts need replacing.
But his list is missing a large number of incidentals. Like fuel system parts, cooling, gauge updates, wiring, exhaust, driveshaft, not to mentions fasteners-gaskets-chemicals. Each of those things can run from a little to a lot depending upon the specifics of your swap. But believe me the incidentals add up in a hurry. Little things like needing a different shifter, or some type of adapter to run the speedometer, or maybe having to swap out a master cylinder can run into unexpected $$. Not to mention if the truck accesories don't fit under your hood and force you to get a set of F body stuff. Plus the stuff you buy that you end up not using.
For what it is worth, I ended up spending about $14K for my basic motor swap. But that was with a brand new LS2 crate motor, new trans, new bellhousing/clutch, new carb, new ignition box and new headers. made all my own mounts, brackets, sensor changes and wiring. I also splurged on a mandrel bent exhaust ($1200) cause I didn't feel like investing the time
So my swap was definitely on the high side cause of the new parts.
But the carb did save me money cause I went with crate motor in a car that wasn't set up for FI. If you are going pull out then FI is probably cheaper as long as none of the used parts need replacing.
TRU incidentals... can cost alot. (helps to have a skilled tech as a good buddy)
But if your doing a lot of mods... (ie big cam and heads) you will save on tuning with a Carb MSD setup, injectors, intake, throttle body
im sittin right about 4200 for my swap that comes from 2400 motor and transmission 600 for headers 500 for custom wiring harness and vats deleted 100 for inline fuel pump 200 for custom diveshaft and 50 for cai 250 for guages 200 for shifter
Cost depends on the vehicle getting the LSX. Im running an LS1 in my 96 Impala SS. So far this is the list:
$3,200 complete 01 LS1 drivetrain from trans to accessories and harness.
$550 for headers
$150 motor mounts
$250 modified oil pan
approx $200 misc items
About $4,400 for me.
$3,200 complete 01 LS1 drivetrain from trans to accessories and harness.
$550 for headers
$150 motor mounts
$250 modified oil pan
approx $200 misc items
About $4,400 for me.
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,148
Likes: 12
From: Downers Grove, IL
I spent $2600 when I first swapped the 5.3L in, and that included the 5.3 and 4l60e.
I like BIG UGLY`s torque Anyway fuel system seemed hard to me the first time.......then I realized I was over-thinking it. Should have wacked a hole in the top of the tank and dropped a late model fuel fuel pump/bucket assembly in like this http://www.cardomain.com/ride/716267/3 I am doing it this way on my brothers conversion and it is much easier. On his the tank was too short to fit the senders in that I could find so I cut the sending unit down and made my own top plate so that it only needed a 6.5" deep tank to fit in.
Anyway fuel system seemed hard to me the first time.......then I realized I was over-thinking it. Should have wacked a hole in the top of the tank and dropped a late model fuel fuel pump/bucket assembly in like this http://www.cardomain.com/ride/716267/3 I am doing it this way on my brothers conversion and it is much easier. On his the tank was too short to fit the senders in that I could find so I cut the sending unit down and made my own top plate so that it only needed a 6.5" deep tank to fit in. 
About 5k for me so far. If you buy a complete pullout from a F body you wont have to buy a new oilpan well depending on what you are going to put the LS in. I bought an LS1 out of a vette so I had to get the fbody oil pan to get it to fit in my 87 camaro. I have done all the work my self so that saved a lot of money. But if you look around you could get a complete pullout for around 3k, Fuel system 500, wiring harness 700 from painless, headers 200-1000 depending on what you want, and then all the little crap that you dont plan on will add up so plan for about an extra 1000 bucks.
[
DONT NEED THIS STUFF WITH A CARB...[/QUOTE]
correct however you do have to purchase item when running a carbed settup that you dont when you run fuel injected such carb intake 300 carb 250 and up a harness and control box for the carbed set up not sure the price but i think around 400 and you still need a fuel pump
DONT NEED THIS STUFF WITH A CARB...[/QUOTE]
correct however you do have to purchase item when running a carbed settup that you dont when you run fuel injected such carb intake 300 carb 250 and up a harness and control box for the carbed set up not sure the price but i think around 400 and you still need a fuel pump
correct however you do have to purchase item when running a carbed settup that you dont when you run fuel injected such carb intake 300 carb 250 and up a harness and control box for the carbed set up not sure the price but i think around 400 and you still need a fuel pump[/QUOTE]
True carb and intake you need to buy. (if you have a carbed car already..you can reuse your carb??)
You don't need a harness with the MSD box. Its plug and play.
True carb and intake you need to buy. (if you have a carbed car already..you can reuse your carb??)
You don't need a harness with the MSD box. Its plug and play.