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LS1 Foxbody... need some help

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Old May 15, 2009 | 10:38 AM
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Default LS1 Foxbody... need some help

Gathering up info and stuff for my next project here.

Ive been reading around a bit but i cant get some clear answers on some things for myself.

already found my radiator, swap headers from dynatech and AJE 4.6 Tubular K-Member. My question is, the car will be going 5 lug with Cobra IRS swap out back, im assuming strongly that the 4.6 K member for 96-98 and 99-04 are all the same, so id like to use the SN95 (96-98) k member so i can use SN95 spindals and suspension parts so i wont have to worry too much about bump steer issues or the possibilities of, i know how to make the SN95 stuff work properly. Should i just go ahead and use a 96-98 Power steering rack as well? or will anything interfere with the LS1?

Also mounts. Am i correct in assuming that with the LS1 Mounts on a 4.6 Tubular K Member, that it will bolt right in and all ill have to do is worry about trans crossmember? Or is there some modifying to do in that area too.

Then theres the issue of wiring for me. I have not found anyone thats posted a pinout for this conversion, which wire goes where... is there anything out there for this? Im going to be using autometer pII gauges in the dash and for oil and fuel pressure in the cowl but i would like to make sure i got a good solid pinout and dont wire something backwards, and should i think about the extended Painless Harness or just stick with STOCK LS1?

my final question is about AC. Seems everyone out there with this swap doesnt run AC. is there a reason for this? I would really like to have AC as this will not just be a track car.

Any help is appreciated, i sent out 3 or 4 PM's but recieved no help so im posting it in the open. THANKS AGAIN!

Phil


** found the AJE LSx Swap k member, didnt know they made one. Ignore the 4.6 part of the post

Last edited by Slow50h; May 25, 2009 at 10:12 AM.
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Old May 16, 2009 | 03:16 AM
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AC is not that big of a deal but for most people its just too much of a PITA because you have to take it to the shop and have them evacuate the ac system then recharge it.
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Old May 16, 2009 | 07:58 AM
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well buddy of mine is an AC guy over at the shop that my bodyshop does alignments at he usually hooks me up with that stuff if i need help. My biggest fear is that the compressor would interfere with the frame rail or something of that sort.
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Old May 16, 2009 | 11:59 AM
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Just see if it all lines up... I mean im building a 1991 camaro and the ac compressor clears just fine.
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Old May 16, 2009 | 03:31 PM
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i thought about doing that, but the mustang had more appeal to me for the IRS swap, its gonna be an everything car, not a one trick pony like everyone around here has lol you can make an IRS car run good 1/4 mile and leave well, just gotta know what your doing and with the 5+ years ive got in Nissan 240's in the 1320, ive got it pretty well figured out hahaha
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Old May 16, 2009 | 05:59 PM
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Hey Phil, I'm going to paste the pm I just sent you here. That way if anyone else needs it , its here.

I think that the IRS would be fun.

If you use the 4.6 k-member you will have to run the modded 4.6 mounts....really no big deal there.If you dont have the k-member yet...buy the AJE swap one. I think its the 3030 part number. It come with nice mounts and poly bushings.

The steering rack will swap over. The mounts are the same on the k-member. I'm using a fox rack with a UPR bump steer kit. I'm also using SN95 spindles.

There is a guy on e-bay that sell a bracket that mounts a Sanden style A/C compressor on a LS1. The LS A/C comp. are 2 stage, so they will not work correctly.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Corve...Q5fAccessories

Wiring....your on your own ..lol I know enough to get me in trouble. I am selling my Speartech harness if you decide to go that route. It has all of the wiring for the F-body dash...speedo ,tach ,oil pressure,temp...everything. And it's setup for the T56.
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Old May 16, 2009 | 06:16 PM
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Besides the motor mounts, the k-members for the 79-93 and the 94-04 are the same. You can use any A arms ,spindles or rack with either style k-member.I think either the 96+ or the 99+ A-arms widen the track width. You may want to read more on it at http://forums.corral.net/forums/

Which k-member are the Dynotech headers made for? The Kooks are made for the AJE swap k-member. It will make a big difference on how the headers fit around the steering shaft.....
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Old May 16, 2009 | 08:27 PM
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Then theres the issue of wiring for me. I have not found anyone thats posted a pinout for this conversion, which wire goes where... is there anything out there for this? Im going to be using autometer pII gauges in the dash and for oil and fuel pressure in the cowl but i would like to make sure i got a good solid pinout and dont wire something backwards, and should i think about the extended Painless Harness or just stick with STOCK LS1?


are you asking about the pinouts for the engine? if so there are plenty in the faq. if your asking about the body, thats not that big of a deal. i used the diagram from all data. even with alldata i couldnt find a pinout, but i did find a digram an just traced what i needed (for gauges and such, theres only two wires you need for under the hood. ignition switched and the starter).
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Old May 16, 2009 | 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by leonpiper69
Then theres the issue of wiring for me. I have not found anyone thats posted a pinout for this conversion, which wire goes where... is there anything out there for this? Im going to be using autometer pII gauges in the dash and for oil and fuel pressure in the cowl but i would like to make sure i got a good solid pinout and dont wire something backwards, and should i think about the extended Painless Harness or just stick with STOCK LS1?


are you asking about the pinouts for the engine? if so there are plenty in the faq. if your asking about the body, thats not that big of a deal. i used the diagram from all data. even with alldata i couldnt find a pinout, but i did find a digram an just traced what i needed (for gauges and such, theres only two wires you need for under the hood. ignition switched and the starter).
ahhh okay, i just wasnt sure if anyone sat down and took the time to write a diagram of which wire goes to which wire, GM harness to Ford harness. its very common in the nissan camp, wasnt sure about over here.

djquick, thanks for the extra help! your a saint! youve helped IMMENSELY in just the little bit youve said, thank you again!
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Old May 17, 2009 | 08:02 AM
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Then theres the issue of wiring for me. I have not found anyone thats posted a pinout for this conversion, which wire goes where... is there anything out there for this? Im going to be using autometer pII gauges in the dash and for oil and fuel pressure in the cowl but i would like to make sure i got a good solid pinout and dont wire something backwards, and should i think about the extended Painless Harness or just stick with STOCK LS1?
When you say " I have not found anyone thats posted a pinout for this conversion" I honestly don't know what you are asking for....

Basically , the 2 harnesses (LS1 engine and Mustang body) never intermix.

With my harness (which is for sale btw) , you drop the engine in, pop the harness on, wire the grounds, hot , switched and its running. It has the VSS wiring to hook up to your Factory F-body or aftermarket DIGITAL Speedo (ie autometer), the wire that hooks up to your tach , the oil pressure and temp guage IF you are using the factory gauges .

To use the Autometer gauges, you will have to drill and tap the little adapter above the the oil filter to hook up your oil pressure gauge. Also, you will need a Autometer fitting #2277 http://beta.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-2277/ to adapt your 1/8" NPT temp sensor to the M12x1.5 holes in the head. I had to take a drill bit and open the fitting up a tad to get my temp sensor in it. Be careful and dont over tighten!

Where are you wanting to mount the PCM?

FWIW I like the F-body harness....no sense spending that extra money.
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Old May 17, 2009 | 08:31 AM
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just did some double checking, Dynatech # 115-913400 ($599.75) Swap headers are made to clear everything with the AJE K Member, Also the K Member part number from AJE's Site is MU-30UM. its $349 and comes with mounts

I found a Mishimoto radiator (been using htem for years with great success on my 240s,) #MMRAD-MUS-79 for Foxbody $239.99 Aluminum radiators, very nice products, for a budget build the best thing you can do!

I came across another question tho.

I want to use the SN95 Spindals, which is no biggie, can i still use factory Fox A Arms and Factory style Shocks/Springs?

ive never done hybrid ****, just helped with other peoples 5 lug swaps. but for now i think i may try to stick to stock parts so i can get it done and running and then upgrade after.

Input is appreciated, you guys rock so far! As I go along ill give back what info i find out so it makes things easier for many others to come
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Old May 17, 2009 | 08:40 AM
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I want to use the SN95 Spindals, which is no biggie, can i still use factory Fox A Arms and Shocks/Springs?
Yes , but you will have to use a .330 spacer under the castle nut on the lower ball joint or use SN95 ball joints . I went the spacer route..

Here is a like with a few pics of the spacers..
http://forums.corral.net/forums/show...l+joint+spacer
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Old May 17, 2009 | 09:34 AM
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this is quickly becoming a very informative thread haha Thanks again!
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Old May 17, 2009 | 09:41 AM
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hey, are all Sanden compressors the same? I found one off a 88-90 CRX for $150 new. Are those the same? or do i need a certain one for that bracket?
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Old May 17, 2009 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Slow50h
just did some double checking, Dynatech # 115-913400 ($599.75) Swap headers are made to clear everything with the AJE K Member, Also the K Member part number from AJE's Site is MU-30UM. its $349 and comes with mounts

I found a Mishimoto radiator (been using htem for years with great success on my 240s,) #MMRAD-MUS-79 for Foxbody $239.99 Aluminum radiators, very nice products, for a budget build the best thing you can do!I came across another question tho.

I want to use the SN95 Spindals, which is no biggie, can i still use factory Fox A Arms and Factory style Shocks/Springs?

ive never done hybrid ****, just helped with other peoples 5 lug swaps. but for now i think i may try to stick to stock parts so i can get it done and running and then upgrade after.

Input is appreciated, you guys rock so far! As I go along ill give back what info i find out so it makes things easier for many others to come

A stock F-body radiator and dual fans fits perfect in a fox car with barely any work and cost less than half that. Just sayin.
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Old May 17, 2009 | 01:04 PM
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I don't know about the compressor...it lists the ones that will work it the auction.

Yeah, that's what I'm using , F-body radiator and fans....love them!
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Old May 17, 2009 | 01:11 PM
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id rather an aftermarket setup for a couple reasons. #1 i plan on hitting some serious track time with this car even tho its gonna be a street car, I wanna hit the road course hard with it. Hence the reason for the IRS, and second, piece of mind. Plastic end tanks suck. dont feel like dealing with them. ive had way too many failures on them after running a car really hard.

Last edited by Slow50h; May 17, 2009 at 01:27 PM.
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Old May 17, 2009 | 04:55 PM
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okay more researching done, found Sanden 508, SD5 and SD7 work, 508 seems to be the cheapest and most common.

part number 9537 Multigroove seems to be what they call for on an LS1, but my question is, 9537 is an R12 compressor... HFC R134a is the norm these days iirc, should i just go against what they say and get the R134a one?
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Old May 18, 2009 | 10:58 AM
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was just looking around at EBAY for LS1 motorsets with harness ecu and T56, 3500 seems to be the norm.. am i safe to assume other places can get them cheaper? maybe even used parts yards locally such as LKQ or Greenleaf etc?
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Old May 19, 2009 | 11:07 AM
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anyone got any ideas?
now im stuck on this part. Trying to find wiring info aswell still, cant find factory service manuals for camaro and mustangs to compare wiring
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