This will sound odd, but I had one car make that type of noise. The problem? A bad PCV valve. Replaced it and the noise was gone. I think it has to do with vacuum in the crank case. Dunno. Maybe the valve is fluttering and that's what you hear.

 

Turned out to be the power steering pump was misaligned. Actually the entire pump was slightly racked so the pulley was at a slight angle in relation to the rest of the pullys. I had to remove the entire bracket off the front of the engine in order to grind a little aluminum off of it. Still has a little chirp from time to time, but its a lot better than it was.

 

Gauges are finally ordered and should be here in 5-7 days.

Worked on the hood.
Added a bunch of Bondo, sanded it off.
Added a bunch of Bondo, sanded it off.
Added a bunch of Bondo, sanded it off.
Added a bunch of Bondo, sanded it off.
Added a bunch of Bondo, sanded it off.

Doesn't look too bad in the pics but I'm gonna redo it with a fiberglass scoop at some point.

 

Looks good. I just sold a home made XJ cowl hood last week. Was going to use it but it would ruin the sleeper image I'm trying to project. The hood was a good 50 footer, but it had waves you could surf on.

 

I tried every trick under the sun to keep the hood from warping...nothing worked. So I invested heavily in Bondo.

 

Carve-a-car. Hopefully it resembles a hood when it's done.

 

Decided it was time to flex out the heep and make sure the front drive shaft would clear the drivers side exhaust pipe and that the oil pan would clear the diff.

Plenty of clearance for the exhaust.



Oil pan looks safe.


Gratuitous flex pics.

 

Sweet XJs!!!

 

Thanks. The Briarwood is my son's.

 

looks like one heck of a project but it turned out great, it makes me want another XJ

 

Worked on the gauges today, a few more solder joints and I can button up the dash.

Started with a piece of 1/8" Aluminum.


Prettied it up a little.


Viola'!!

 

In order to use the aftermarket fuel gauge a corresponding float and sender must be used as well. VDO includes a float/sender in their kits, at least they did in the one that I bought. The sender must have a rating of 10 ohms empty and 180 when full.

So here's how it's done:.

Step #1
Get your junk in the general vacinity of the gas tank.


Step #2
Obtain the appropriately sized "I Can't believe it's not Butter! container, 1.75" holesaw, and a drill.


Step #3
After confirming that there is no butter present in said recptacle, insert thusly into the gastank.


Step #4
Whilest holding the aforementioned container, proceed with using the holesaw to cutout the Rollover Valve.


Step #5
Upon completion of the boring operation, remove the container from the gastank. DO NOT LEAVE IT IN THE TANK!!!! You may need it for another project.


Step#6
Verify that you had the container positioned properly by confirming the presence of debris from the boring operation. DO NOT DUMP BACK INTO THE GAS TANK!! That would be silly.


Step #7
Disregard the piece of circular steel you fabricated prior to getting started on the tank in favor of a piece of aluminum from a different project. It looks better and won't rust from all the water in the cheap gas you buy.


Step #8
Using the gasket as a template, pilot drill the correct bolt pattern and bore out the center of the disc as well.


Step #9
Double check that you did a good job locating holes. If done correctly you may pat yourself on the back.


Step #10
Insert the float assembly into the tank with a liberal coating of Right Stuff Gasket maker to the float assy flange, the aluminum disc, and both sides of the gasket. Install the gasket through the pump assembly hole followed by the aluminum clamping flange (formerly known as the aluminum disc).

***NOTE***
You must fumble around for a minumum of 15 minutes before getting all 5 self-tapping screws started in the appropriate hole. If your hands, wrists and forearms are not stained with Gasket Maker....your doing it wrong.


Step #11
Make sure the float is in the correct location and moves freely.


Step # 12
Order another fuel pump assembly since you broke a nipple off the damn thing when you lowered the tank.

 

Installed 2 new teflon lined braided steel fuel lines, new fuel pump, Fuel Composition Sensor (for running E85), new fuel filter, finished wiring the gauges and indicators.

Gauges are now 100% operational.
At night this....

Looks like this...

 

WOW! That flex pic is awesome! Nice job on the swap, you've come a ways.

 

Well it's been a good news/bad news kinda day. Good news is that I finally finished connecting the vapor return lines and vapor canister vent solenoid and do not have a check engine light as a result. Yippie!!

Bad news is that the latest round of 90+ deg weather has confirmed that I need a 3 row radiator. I kind of figured I would but was hoping I could get by without one. Driving around town the temp creeps up to 225-230 on long uphill grades but the temperature drops down to a more manageable 200-215 on the flats. This is after I bypassed the #1 fan and wired both fans to come on at the same ttime (195 deg. f.)

Although I won't have a problem on most days, we are just getting into summer and I really don't want to push the motor to extemes for no good reason.

So I'm looking for a viable solution and am considering a standard construction 3 row radiator or a 3 row aluminum if I can find a drop-in replacement.

So far I've not had any luck finding a 3 row aluminum, ebay is littered with single pass aluminum and those just don't fit the bill.

I've been trading emails with the folks a http://www.ffdynamics.com reguarding their radiator. They told me that it's a two row and I'm waiting to hear back as to whether or not they can supply me with a 3 row aluminum. If you've never heard of them, this is their complete fan/radiator kit (XJ of course):
http://www.ffdynamics.com/jeepradB1.html

Since I've already installed 2 (97+) electric fans I only need the radiator.

So there you have it. Everything is functonal but running a bit warmer than I like.

Now before you guys start suggesting a $750 radiator from Novak....It ain't gonna happen. No way no how. It might be a great piece of hardware, but my heart, soul, wallet, and wife all know that I'm not about to drop that kind of coin on a radiator.

Now if one of you are feeling extremely generous I'd be happy to provide you with my shipping address.

 

Do you have any shrouds on so it would pull air thru the whole rad and not just where the fans are? It's a little thing but might help.

I've heard mixed results from using a stock rad with the swap. I know of one guy I believe we've talked about before that ran Ultimate Adventure with his swap and he ran a stock rad.

 

This set up makes me wanna get a 5.3 and do a swap on a dodge Caravan . But that would be nice. Nice build.

 

yes, the fans are shrouded (OEM XJ Fans) and I added a block-off panel between the shrouds to maximize the airflow through the radiator/fans.

Now that would be a screamin' grocery hauler!!

 

Now that would be a screamin' grocery hauler!![/QUOTE]

YES SIR!!! Some one should do that. Maybe that someone will be Me . But what kinda of van.

 

I seen a first gen Caravan tubbed and a 440 under the hood years ago. Looked good.