1997 Jeep Cherokee LS1 conversion
They look to be high quality from what I can see. Where did you source the materials at a price that allowed you to produce them for profit? My problem is that I build cool #hit but if I sold it I have spent so much making it awesome that there is no room for profit.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
From: colorado Springs
Slow progress, but some is better than none I suppose.
I pushed the rig out of the garage to free up some valuable space and took advantage of the nice weather and got started on the cowl hood. Basically a stock hood with a few stategic cuts. The filler pieces on the sides will be 16ga steel.
After lowering the hood I quickly realized that the alternator and the purge valve were going to be an issue. Actually I knew this when I got started but untill I was standing there looking at it with the hood in place I didn't fully appreciate the "situation."
The alternator sits about 2" above the normal hood line.
Slightly behind the alternator on the intake manifold is the Purge valve. It is higher than the alternator. I'm going to fab up a 90deg adapter for the valve so it really isn't a major issue.
Without modifiying the purge valve and lowering the alternator about an inch or so, the hood is gonna look like crap. So I'm gonna be burning up my bandwidth looking for a bracket that will keep the alternator on the drivers side but allow me to lower it a little bit. If anyone knows of a good solution, please let me know.
I pushed the rig out of the garage to free up some valuable space and took advantage of the nice weather and got started on the cowl hood. Basically a stock hood with a few stategic cuts. The filler pieces on the sides will be 16ga steel.
After lowering the hood I quickly realized that the alternator and the purge valve were going to be an issue. Actually I knew this when I got started but untill I was standing there looking at it with the hood in place I didn't fully appreciate the "situation."
The alternator sits about 2" above the normal hood line.
Slightly behind the alternator on the intake manifold is the Purge valve. It is higher than the alternator. I'm going to fab up a 90deg adapter for the valve so it really isn't a major issue.
Without modifiying the purge valve and lowering the alternator about an inch or so, the hood is gonna look like crap. So I'm gonna be burning up my bandwidth looking for a bracket that will keep the alternator on the drivers side but allow me to lower it a little bit. If anyone knows of a good solution, please let me know.
Last edited by FrankZ; Sep 7, 2009 at 08:45 AM.
Glad to see this project , My daily is a 91 Cherokee, I have been thinking of a V8 swap but I was thinking more like a 6.1 hemi to stay in the chrysler family. Great progress BTW!
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On the evap purge solenoid you can tune it out of the pcm unless you need it on your application. Its just a vent for your gas tank on gm unless the jeep needs it also. I think on the alt and ps brackets you would be best with 98-02 f body
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
From: colorado Springs
One of the folks I wheel with has a TJ with a 6.0L. They've been fighting a constant battle with the gas spewing out of the filler neck, though I don't for certain that it's related to the lack of a purge valve. In an attempt to prevent that on my rig I opted to use a GM pump from the same donor vehicle as my engine. My thought process is that since I need more fuel pressure than my stock pump can supply (non-adjustable FPR in pump assy) and I already have the required fuel lines...why not go ahead and hook it up.
You can easily run the accessories from the front of the fbody on your engine, you might want to do some measuring first though and make sure your steering box wouldn't interfere with the alt then. I take it your a member on PIRATE4X4.COM if not I suggest you take time to log on and read through some of the builds that are already running your particular setup should save you a lot of headaches on your build process. Also keep in mind that to change the power steering and alt locations to another bracket setup the water pump, balancer and AC must all change as well as the offset the belt runs at is different between Fbody, Vette, and pickup.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
From: colorado Springs
Yeah I'm on Pirate. There alot of TJ/YJ swaps, but XJ's.....not really. I know of a few but those all used F-Body motors to begin with.
Replacing the alternator bracket isn't looking so hot if I've got to swap everything else on the front of the motor as well.
Replacing the alternator bracket isn't looking so hot if I've got to swap everything else on the front of the motor as well.
I think you could use one of the alternator brackets that f-body guys use for a turbo swap as stated above but you'd have to shim it. Also most s-10 swap guys use truck brackets for the swap. So maybe you could swap them straight across. With your fab skills you could make some brackets pretty easily. I made mine in an afternoon with a welder and some 1/8 plate. Also gm g body seat track to seat spacers work very well.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
From: colorado Springs
Unfortunetly that won't work on my XJ.
Since there's no easy way to replace the brackets on the front of a truck motor I decided to mod what I had available.
Here's the Alternator/PS Pump before:
...and after:
I still need to add a support arm from the new bracket to the bolt directly below the alternator, maybe tomorrow.
Better clearance now under the hood.
Since there's no easy way to replace the brackets on the front of a truck motor I decided to mod what I had available.
Here's the Alternator/PS Pump before:
...and after:
I still need to add a support arm from the new bracket to the bolt directly below the alternator, maybe tomorrow.
Better clearance now under the hood.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,645
Likes: 526
Alt problems In my first Jeep LS swap I used truck front accessories. The alt is up there a ways with the truck stuff.
My next two swaps of LS motors in to TJ's, an LS6 and a 6.0 using camaro front accessories you always need to watch the left front upper control arm into the alternator. I am running a 1.75 spring spacer with the bump stops lowered by the same amount.
The C5 Corvette accessories look to be the hot set up. Alt lower than the truck and the PS pump high enough not to cause problems. Remote res on the PS pump.
Car Craft did an article on LS front drive assemblys. I think it is Quik Performance that makes brackets for the alternator and PS pump.
On my 4.8 swap I ran the stock 2.5 intank pump and regulator, the stock single line right up to the 4.8 fuel rail. Ran great. No problems. On the LS6 and 6.0 I run a 255 Walbro in tank. Got rid of the stock Jeep regulator and ran a C5 corvette regulator. Both run great.
Just my .02
My next two swaps of LS motors in to TJ's, an LS6 and a 6.0 using camaro front accessories you always need to watch the left front upper control arm into the alternator. I am running a 1.75 spring spacer with the bump stops lowered by the same amount.
The C5 Corvette accessories look to be the hot set up. Alt lower than the truck and the PS pump high enough not to cause problems. Remote res on the PS pump.
Car Craft did an article on LS front drive assemblys. I think it is Quik Performance that makes brackets for the alternator and PS pump.
On my 4.8 swap I ran the stock 2.5 intank pump and regulator, the stock single line right up to the 4.8 fuel rail. Ran great. No problems. On the LS6 and 6.0 I run a 255 Walbro in tank. Got rid of the stock Jeep regulator and ran a C5 corvette regulator. Both run great.
Just my .02
