LS1 in a Nova
LS1 in a Nova I have recently bought a 99 LS1 Corvette engine and am getting ready to put it into my 1969 Nova. I was just wondering if anyone knew of anyone who put out a kit as far as mounts engine and trans oil pan and headers that will work for this swap. I know Jegs carries such a kit but it is for a 67-69 Camaro and I am unsure if the headers or tran's mount will work. When I spoke with the Jeg's tech he had no clue about what I was talking about and just kept telling medont worry it will work.
BRP (Phil) has been producting and marketing may coversion kits and has worked with Year One. There is also many others.. Edelbrock, Hooker, ATS, S&P, etc.. so some researching on this forum and read the FAQ's at the top.
These conversion are very common now a days.. I am starting to collect parts for my 71 Nova.. my Chevelle has been done for 3 years..
I have picked up a 2002 Z28 donner to use for parts..
These conversion are very common now a days.. I am starting to collect parts for my 71 Nova.. my Chevelle has been done for 3 years..
I have picked up a 2002 Z28 donner to use for parts..
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The subframes for '69 Camaros and '69 Novas are identical. Anything made for the Camaro subframe will fit the Nova.
As for conversion parts, just be carefull you don't get stuck with one of the truck oil pans. They hang way too low. Check the oil pan sticky at the top of the forum.
Ken
As for conversion parts, just be carefull you don't get stuck with one of the truck oil pans. They hang way too low. Check the oil pan sticky at the top of the forum.
Ken
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Verdad Gallardo Hey hookemdevils22 I was just wondering if you had any issues with wheels and tires since you did the drop on the Nova. I did a two inch drop spindle on my 69 and the outer tie rods are now rubbing bad. The back spacing on the wheels I have are a 4 inch and prior to the drop they were still bearly rubbing when I hit any dips.
BRP hotrods has a well built kit, but the motor sits up to high, to far forward and the truck pan hangs to low
As far as dropped spindles, thats what you get, the mounting position of the tie rod does not change from stock, just the center pin moves up, bringing the wheel closer to the tie rod...there is maybe one or two man. factures that allow a little bit more backspacing. I used Superior spindles years ago and was able to run 4.5" but they went out of business.
Im running ATS spindles and coil over and my car can sit in the weeds if I wanted to
As far as dropped spindles, thats what you get, the mounting position of the tie rod does not change from stock, just the center pin moves up, bringing the wheel closer to the tie rod...there is maybe one or two man. factures that allow a little bit more backspacing. I used Superior spindles years ago and was able to run 4.5" but they went out of business.
Im running ATS spindles and coil over and my car can sit in the weeds if I wanted to
Essentially like this guy (granted it takes A LOT of work to get this all-the-time ride height to work and on 18's)...
See that's the one thing I dislike about AirRide, you gotta deflate and then it's undriveable. I aim to have mine sit about 1-2" higher than that... but all the time, no bags.
Essentially like this guy (granted it takes A LOT of work to get this all-the-time ride height to work and on 18's)...
Essentially like this guy (granted it takes A LOT of work to get this all-the-time ride height to work and on 18's)...
kinda like this
this was ocean city Maryland 06 the car is all the way down rolling at 30mph... cant say it wasn't dangerous tho! i can drive with the car all the way down if the inner fenders are out. but its hard on parts expecially here in pa known for the worst roads in America. 
kinda like this this was ocean city Maryland 06 the car is all the way down rolling at 30mph... cant say it wasn't dangerous tho! i can drive with the car all the way down if the inner fenders are out. but its hard on parts expecially here in pa known for the worst roads in America.
this was ocean city Maryland 06 the car is all the way down rolling at 30mph... cant say it wasn't dangerous tho! i can drive with the car all the way down if the inner fenders are out. but its hard on parts expecially here in pa known for the worst roads in America. Yea the pic i showed up there took a lot of work for him to get proper, including using low-profile solid body mounts, Z'ing the front subframe horns to lower the rad support & bumper to keep panel alignment, and massive reconstruction of the inner fenderwells... some of which I'm seriously contemplating doing.
Result is he can run that ride height with total clearance anywhere from lock to lock, including up to about 2" or more bump, with an 18" 245... wicked eh?
Lol well i was cheating if I need make any major turn you hit the up button . But ya it would take major work to get it safe to drive that low. I would think some sort of negitive control arm would be neeeded to move the wheel in from the fender.
. But ya it would take major work to get it safe to drive that low. I would think some sort of negitive control arm would be neeeded to move the wheel in from the fender. Hey do you guys think that with that 2 inch drop spindle I will have any problems fitting a set of 17's all the way around or possible a set or 17's up front and 18's in the rear without cutting or bending the fender lip.
i think it would depend on the tire and the off set of the rim. i would get your suspension work done then measure for your wheel and get the right off set wheel and tire that will work for you.
