Ls1 into 95 Buick Roadmaster Wagon?
#21
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thanx guys i cant wait to start this project! i hope to have the motor by next week then i need to buy all the belt driven parts.im waaaay excited!i just dont think i am satisfied with my lt1 any more and its starting to feel like old technology lol!I want to use the same trans thats in the car now that 4l60e what would i have to do different to use that?
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thanx guys i cant wait to start this project! i hope to have the motor by next week then i need to buy all the belt driven parts.im waaaay excited!i just dont think i am satisfied with my lt1 any more and its starting to feel like old technology lol!I want to use the same trans thats in the car now that 4l60e what would i have to do different to use that?
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your using the one from your ss?i thought you could use an fbody harness
#24
fbody is different length and has what i would think completely different set-up as far as what goes thru the firewall.
the truck oil pan will clear are motor crossmembers but hangggggggg wayyyyyy to low.
the lh8 kit fits better yet still 's about a inch and a half under the cross member.personally cutting to get a corvette or gto pan....maybe a cts pan is worth the effort.
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fbody is different length and has what i would think completely different set-up as far as what goes thru the firewall.
the truck oil pan will clear are motor crossmembers but hangggggggg wayyyyyy to low.
the lh8 kit fits better yet still 's about a inch and a half under the cross member.personally cutting to get a corvette or gto pan....maybe a cts pan is worth the effort.
the truck oil pan will clear are motor crossmembers but hangggggggg wayyyyyy to low.
the lh8 kit fits better yet still 's about a inch and a half under the cross member.personally cutting to get a corvette or gto pan....maybe a cts pan is worth the effort.
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You could buy a harness from one of the suppliers (Wait4Me, Speartech, Etc) ORRRRRRR use your factory harness, and remove unneeded stuff, and wire it into what's left of the car's fuesbox. It's pretty easy. I used a 2004 Yukon harness, it has plenty of length to get the PCM into the stock spot. Don't rush the swap, take your time. You'll thank yourself later. I rushed mine and I've been fixing little things that have been irking me for a while (A/C, hose routing, etc.).
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ok ill try not to rush!this idea seems like a real fun project and i cant wait to get started but i do want things to go right.ill keep you guys posted on my progress im thinking about just buying the shortblock off the guy because i plan to buy some ls6 heads,cam,intake. you guys think thats a good idea?
#29
i need info on the flexplate spacer. i have a 6.0 that i have started buying the parts for the swap and i would like to keep the lt1 4l60 just to save the cash.
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I just completed installing a LS6 in my 95 Caprice. I used all corvette accessories up front, S&P (headers, engine mounts and their straight thermostat housing). I notched the frame slightly for the A/C compressor and I made a custom bracket that keep the A/C compressor tucked up snug to the block. This will be a fun project.
I built my own wiring harness and used a PCM holder out of a S10 pickup truck to mount everything in the original location.
Oh yeah, if you use the straight thermostat housing then you can flip-flop your radiator hoses and they bolt right up. The bottom becomes the top hose and the top hose becomes the bottom hose. Slick!
I built my own wiring harness and used a PCM holder out of a S10 pickup truck to mount everything in the original location.
Oh yeah, if you use the straight thermostat housing then you can flip-flop your radiator hoses and they bolt right up. The bottom becomes the top hose and the top hose becomes the bottom hose. Slick!
-SS
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The part number for the spacer is 12563532. It's the same one used for the 4L80E tranny. 12563533 is the part number for the longer bolts you'll need. Also, you need to see if your flexplate is curved or not. If it is, the spacer goes on after the flexplate, if not the spacer goes on between the crank hub and the flexplate.
Last edited by GA95DCMSS; 08-18-2009 at 04:10 PM.
#33
The part number for the spacer is 12563532. It's the same one used for the 4L80E tranny. 12563533 is the part number for the longer bolts you'll need. Also, you need to see if your flexplate is curved or not. If it is, the spacer goes on after the flexplate, if not the spacer goes on between the crank hub and the flexplate.
Last edited by ssimpala1995; 08-19-2009 at 09:04 AM.
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Back up top with this. Got sidetracked on the project(you know how it is) but have fully and officially decided to go ahead and do this. Im no longer looking for a shortblock im looking to buy a complete motor. I put the car in the garage and disconnected the battery. Now im hoping this will be done by spring.
I have never stopped doing research tho and i have ran across a few nice bbody lsx swap kits like this one http://www.brphotrods.com/LSX%20Swap...M%20Parts.html. I am also gonna buy those headers and the cts v oil pan. So with this kit just to be clear i dont need to do any frame notching?
I have never stopped doing research tho and i have ran across a few nice bbody lsx swap kits like this one http://www.brphotrods.com/LSX%20Swap...M%20Parts.html. I am also gonna buy those headers and the cts v oil pan. So with this kit just to be clear i dont need to do any frame notching?
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On the positive side, I don't know how tight Hughes' tolerances are for their machine work. The GM unit will hold itself to the crank without the bolts and has two threaded holes for a puller if needed but I feel more secure bolting everything together instead of a friction fit between the flexplate and TC.
Last edited by gofastwclass; 12-04-2009 at 11:07 AM. Reason: f#$%^&* typing
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perrfeect!im getting my lt1 transmission built at cahall performance transmission in delaware. Any other parts i need besides this one to get the lt1 4l60 to work with the ls1