Conversion Wiring Help
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 503
Likes: 1
From: Ventura, Ca
I think a better question is what do I need to keep and what can I get rid of? I don't know if you have looked at there are some very good threads in the hall of fame area. The one that comes to mind for you is this one that has what you need and what you don't need in the pin assignments area. I am sure if you saw this you probably would not have paid somebody for their knowledge. You should be able to decide from there.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...swap-faqs.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...swap-faqs.html
I think a better question is what do I need to keep and what can I get rid of? I don't know if you have looked at there are some very good threads in the hall of fame area. The one that comes to mind for you is this one that has what you need and what you don't need in the pin assignments area. I am sure if you saw this you probably would not have paid somebody for their knowledge. You should be able to decide from there.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...swap-faqs.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...swap-faqs.html
Both harness look very clean right now and routed nicely. Just need to know what else I can pull to clean them up.
We are running dual aftermarket electric fans from "Hot Rod Air". They have two relays and power source wires and where to connect the wiring, is it still a good idea to leave the cylinder head temp. switch connected and run the fans to the pcm or run the fans as stand alone? The harness is labled for fans for primary. What wires are for secondary fans I wonder.
We are running dual aftermarket electric fans from "Hot Rod Air". They have two relays and power source wires and where to connect the wiring, is it still a good idea to leave the cylinder head temp. switch connected and run the fans to the pcm or run the fans as stand alone? The harness is labled for fans for primary. What wires are for secondary fans I wonder.
The PCM does a good job and you can adjust them via the tuning software for on/off cycles, and also run on duration after engine shutdown. Based on your application, you should have two fan outputs, on vehicles with dual cooling fans, and control the -12V through a relay.
T,
Your GPS system will not affect your PCM.
PM me your phone and we can discuss your wiring if need be (instead of asking tons of individual questions).
BTW read your email and print the spreadsheet. It has all the needed connections as I deleted all the unnecessary wires.
PM me your phone and we can discuss your wiring if need be (instead of asking tons of individual questions).
BTW read your email and print the spreadsheet. It has all the needed connections as I deleted all the unnecessary wires.
Also, I was thinking of running the pinks from the injectors to each other at the injectors themselves so I would only run one pink wire from each bank of injectors versus 4 down on each side to the fused additional panel I will be adding. Less clutter and cleaner looking I would think with less bundle and soldered connections in the harness. What are your thoughts on this?
Mark
use the PCM to control, the fans and to also control the Vintage Air. That way the fans will come on low speed and then high speed, as needed. Using the PCM to control the VA unit will also kick the fans on low and bump idle when the AC clutch is engaged and declutch the a/C at full throttle.
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Teching In
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Allpro,
I just completed what you're trying to do and it was my first attempt at the wiring. I bought a complete under hood wire harness on Ebay and when it arrived I said OMG. It contained the dual fuse box and all connectors including the main "C" connectors and the huge bulkhead connector that had about 100 wires going to it. This harness can be overwhelming because it contains lights, horns, ABS, Cruise Control and Emissions to name just a few. I laid the harness on the floor (after awhile my back was killing me) and undid all the tape and loom. I used "Rodder's write-up and a few other's as a guide on what to keep. After hours staring at this mess I took each "C" connector and followed the wires back to the fuse box. Here is what I was left with. One box has the three relays for the fans, 40A fuse(fans), 10A fuse(fans), 20A fuse(fuel pump), 10A fuse (PCM bat). The second box has the relays for the ignition, starter, fuel pump, AC compressor and fuses; 50A (ignition), 50A(engine control), 20A(engine sense), 15A(PCM ignition), 15A (A/C), 15A (inj-1), 15A (eng ctrl), 15A (inj-2) and 15A (starter). I kept the A/C relay and fuse just in case I needed this circuit in the future. After it was all said and done I was left with 4 wires going to the bulkhead connector that I kept; red, pink, yellow which all appear to be 12-14 gauge wires and one gray wire for the fuel pump. I also kept the separate harness and connectors for the dual fans as I have the fan assembly from the Camaro. I will let the computer control the fans and reprogram the set points as required. To test my work, I bought a generic ignition switch and attached the red (batt), pink(ignition 12V hot when you turn the key) and yellow (starter). I then hooked up a 12V - 2amp trickle battery charger to my harness ONLY. I did not attach the computer nor the engine harness as if I was going to fry something I wanted it isolated. With the ignition key in the off position I had 12V to ONLY to the PCM and when I turned the key to ignition on (held my breath) I heard the ignition relay click and had power on all my pink wires. I took a meter and measures voltages at the C connectors and it was all good! I then checked the fuel pump and ran a jumper wire to the relay as the computer runs the FP and it too came to life after I did this. The last circuit I tested was the starter and that was a nightmare. I went over and over the schematic but could not get the relay energized. I pulled the relay and tested it and it was OK (on the side of the relay is a diagram) as I got continuity and the familiar click after I supplied voltage. What the hell! I went back and tested all four wires going to the relay for continuity and found the ground wire have an open internally. In my rush during dis-assembly I must have broke the wire. After fixing this wire the starter relay clicked (key to start position only) and I had 12V on the thick purple wire. This weekend or early next week I'm going to try and start this LS1 but I have to plump the fuel lines and test them first for any leaks.
Danno74z
I just completed what you're trying to do and it was my first attempt at the wiring. I bought a complete under hood wire harness on Ebay and when it arrived I said OMG. It contained the dual fuse box and all connectors including the main "C" connectors and the huge bulkhead connector that had about 100 wires going to it. This harness can be overwhelming because it contains lights, horns, ABS, Cruise Control and Emissions to name just a few. I laid the harness on the floor (after awhile my back was killing me) and undid all the tape and loom. I used "Rodder's write-up and a few other's as a guide on what to keep. After hours staring at this mess I took each "C" connector and followed the wires back to the fuse box. Here is what I was left with. One box has the three relays for the fans, 40A fuse(fans), 10A fuse(fans), 20A fuse(fuel pump), 10A fuse (PCM bat). The second box has the relays for the ignition, starter, fuel pump, AC compressor and fuses; 50A (ignition), 50A(engine control), 20A(engine sense), 15A(PCM ignition), 15A (A/C), 15A (inj-1), 15A (eng ctrl), 15A (inj-2) and 15A (starter). I kept the A/C relay and fuse just in case I needed this circuit in the future. After it was all said and done I was left with 4 wires going to the bulkhead connector that I kept; red, pink, yellow which all appear to be 12-14 gauge wires and one gray wire for the fuel pump. I also kept the separate harness and connectors for the dual fans as I have the fan assembly from the Camaro. I will let the computer control the fans and reprogram the set points as required. To test my work, I bought a generic ignition switch and attached the red (batt), pink(ignition 12V hot when you turn the key) and yellow (starter). I then hooked up a 12V - 2amp trickle battery charger to my harness ONLY. I did not attach the computer nor the engine harness as if I was going to fry something I wanted it isolated. With the ignition key in the off position I had 12V to ONLY to the PCM and when I turned the key to ignition on (held my breath) I heard the ignition relay click and had power on all my pink wires. I took a meter and measures voltages at the C connectors and it was all good! I then checked the fuel pump and ran a jumper wire to the relay as the computer runs the FP and it too came to life after I did this. The last circuit I tested was the starter and that was a nightmare. I went over and over the schematic but could not get the relay energized. I pulled the relay and tested it and it was OK (on the side of the relay is a diagram) as I got continuity and the familiar click after I supplied voltage. What the hell! I went back and tested all four wires going to the relay for continuity and found the ground wire have an open internally. In my rush during dis-assembly I must have broke the wire. After fixing this wire the starter relay clicked (key to start position only) and I had 12V on the thick purple wire. This weekend or early next week I'm going to try and start this LS1 but I have to plump the fuel lines and test them first for any leaks.
Danno74z
Last edited by Danno74Z; Sep 25, 2009 at 09:47 AM.
Allpro,
I just completed what you're trying to do and it was my first attempt at the wiring. I bought a complete under hood wire harness on Ebay and when it arrived I said OMG. It contained the dual fuse box and all connectors including the main "C" connectors and the huge bulkhead connector that had about 100 wires going to it. This harness can be overwhelming because it contains lights, horns, ABS, Cruise Control and Emissions to name just a few. I laid the harness on the floor (after awhile my back was killing me) and undid all the tape and loom. I used "Rodder's write-up and a few other's as a guide on what to keep. After hours staring at this mess I took each "C" connector and followed the wires back to the fuse box. Here is what I was left with. One box has the three relays for the fans, 40A fuse(fans), 10A fuse(fans), 20A fuse(fuel pump), 10A fuse (PCM bat). The second box has the relays for the ignition, starter, fuel pump, AC compressor and fuses; 50A (ignition), 50A(engine control), 20A(engine sense), 15A(PCM ignition), 15A (A/C), 15A (inj-1), 15A (eng ctrl), 15A (inj-2) and 15A (starter). I kept the A/C relay and fuse just in case I needed this circuit in the future. After it was all said and done I was left with 4 wires going to the bulkhead connector that I kept; red, pink, yellow which all appear to be 12-14 gauge wires and one gray wire for the fuel pump. I also kept the separate harness and connectors for the dual fans as I have the fan assembly from the Camaro. I will let the computer control the fans and reprogram the set points as required. To test my work, I bought a generic ignition switch and attached the red (batt), pink(ignition 12V hot when you turn the key) and yellow (starter). I then hooked up a 12V - 2amp trickle battery charger to my harness ONLY. I did not attach the computer nor the engine harness as if I was going to fry something I wanted it isolated. With the ignition key in the off position I had 12V to ONLY to the PCM and when I turned the key to ignition on (held my breath) I heard the ignition relay click and had power on all my pink wires. I took a meter and measures voltages at the C connectors and it was all good! I then checked the fuel pump and ran a jumper wire to the relay as the computer runs the FP and it too came to life after I did this. The last circuit I tested was the starter and that was a nightmare. I went over and over the schematic but could not get the relay energized. I pulled the relay and tested it and it was OK (on the side of the relay is a diagram) as I got continuity and the familiar click after I supplied voltage. What the hell! I went back and tested all four wires going to the relay for continuity and found the ground wire have an open internally. In my rush during dis-assembly I must have broke the wire. After fixing this wire the starter relay clicked (key to start position only) and I had 12V on the thick purple wire. This weekend or early next week I'm going to try and start this LS1 but I have to plump the fuel lines and test them first for any leaks.
Danno74z
I just completed what you're trying to do and it was my first attempt at the wiring. I bought a complete under hood wire harness on Ebay and when it arrived I said OMG. It contained the dual fuse box and all connectors including the main "C" connectors and the huge bulkhead connector that had about 100 wires going to it. This harness can be overwhelming because it contains lights, horns, ABS, Cruise Control and Emissions to name just a few. I laid the harness on the floor (after awhile my back was killing me) and undid all the tape and loom. I used "Rodder's write-up and a few other's as a guide on what to keep. After hours staring at this mess I took each "C" connector and followed the wires back to the fuse box. Here is what I was left with. One box has the three relays for the fans, 40A fuse(fans), 10A fuse(fans), 20A fuse(fuel pump), 10A fuse (PCM bat). The second box has the relays for the ignition, starter, fuel pump, AC compressor and fuses; 50A (ignition), 50A(engine control), 20A(engine sense), 15A(PCM ignition), 15A (A/C), 15A (inj-1), 15A (eng ctrl), 15A (inj-2) and 15A (starter). I kept the A/C relay and fuse just in case I needed this circuit in the future. After it was all said and done I was left with 4 wires going to the bulkhead connector that I kept; red, pink, yellow which all appear to be 12-14 gauge wires and one gray wire for the fuel pump. I also kept the separate harness and connectors for the dual fans as I have the fan assembly from the Camaro. I will let the computer control the fans and reprogram the set points as required. To test my work, I bought a generic ignition switch and attached the red (batt), pink(ignition 12V hot when you turn the key) and yellow (starter). I then hooked up a 12V - 2amp trickle battery charger to my harness ONLY. I did not attach the computer nor the engine harness as if I was going to fry something I wanted it isolated. With the ignition key in the off position I had 12V to ONLY to the PCM and when I turned the key to ignition on (held my breath) I heard the ignition relay click and had power on all my pink wires. I took a meter and measures voltages at the C connectors and it was all good! I then checked the fuel pump and ran a jumper wire to the relay as the computer runs the FP and it too came to life after I did this. The last circuit I tested was the starter and that was a nightmare. I went over and over the schematic but could not get the relay energized. I pulled the relay and tested it and it was OK (on the side of the relay is a diagram) as I got continuity and the familiar click after I supplied voltage. What the hell! I went back and tested all four wires going to the relay for continuity and found the ground wire have an open internally. In my rush during dis-assembly I must have broke the wire. After fixing this wire the starter relay clicked (key to start position only) and I had 12V on the thick purple wire. This weekend or early next week I'm going to try and start this LS1 but I have to plump the fuel lines and test them first for any leaks.
Danno74z
Do you have any pictures of your harness on how you terminated the pinks, orange wires and such with relays and fuse blocks?
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Hi Allpro,
I GOT MY ENGINE STARTED!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am so JAZZED you can't believe it. I know this is off the topic but it frickken works. Anyway yes I have some pictures but I will take a lot more tomorrow and send them to you through an email. Please send me your email address through a PM.
Now I know my harness and all the things I did work. This engine was on a pallet in my shop for 1.5 years and I built a test stand for it to test. Anyway PM me and I will send what you need. I did not touch(cut) the ENGINE Harness except unplug the the rear O2 sensors which I deleted from the computer among other things.
I am stoked!!!
Danno74Z
I GOT MY ENGINE STARTED!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am so JAZZED you can't believe it. I know this is off the topic but it frickken works. Anyway yes I have some pictures but I will take a lot more tomorrow and send them to you through an email. Please send me your email address through a PM.
Now I know my harness and all the things I did work. This engine was on a pallet in my shop for 1.5 years and I built a test stand for it to test. Anyway PM me and I will send what you need. I did not touch(cut) the ENGINE Harness except unplug the the rear O2 sensors which I deleted from the computer among other things.
I am stoked!!!
Danno74Z
