*vids on pg 5* 6.0L LSX/T56 in a 1991 Z28 convertible
11-01-2009, 07:27 PM
#21
Ya, the only thing is I have the torque arm that goes with this one, and so I've already got a good chunk of money in this stuff. I don't mind notching it, just from eyeballing it last night it won't make it less durable by cutting the part that is in the way 
11-05-2009, 07:11 PM
#23
I got the driver side header on tonight, didn't want to put the other one on yet because I haven't finished wiring up the starter yet and the header would just be in the way. From my initial impression, it looks like the only things that are close to the header that could potentially be a problem are the brake lines. They get within an inch or so of the primaries. Other than that, the master cyl. line that goes to the transmission is somewhat close to it, but I think I can zip-tie it to the driver side o2 sensor to keep it farther away. Regarding this master cyl. line, does anyone know if it is just supposed to snap into place on the trans? I was going to put it in there tonight and it seemed to just snap into place, almost like it was magnetic? I couldn't pull it back out, so I think it's on there good, but at the same time, visually it looks like there hardly any of the line that went into the hole on the trans.
Pay no attention to all the random wires all over the place. They each have a home, I'm working on finding those right now haha
I also got the radiator put back in tonight, and then I went to try and put the LS1 dual fans in and noticed that it's a really bad fit. What does everyone to to make these fans fit nicely behind the radiator? I'm thinking that the little "cup" on the driver side of the radiator shroud, where it holds the stock coolant hose, can be cut off to make a little more room, is that correct? You don't run any coolant lines over to that side of the block anyways, if I remember correctly, because all the outlets on the water pump are on the passenger side?
Pay no attention to all the random wires all over the place. They each have a home, I'm working on finding those right now haha
I also got the radiator put back in tonight, and then I went to try and put the LS1 dual fans in and noticed that it's a really bad fit. What does everyone to to make these fans fit nicely behind the radiator? I'm thinking that the little "cup" on the driver side of the radiator shroud, where it holds the stock coolant hose, can be cut off to make a little more room, is that correct? You don't run any coolant lines over to that side of the block anyways, if I remember correctly, because all the outlets on the water pump are on the passenger side?
11-06-2009, 10:02 AM
#24
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Why not use the stock thirdgen fans if you're still using the thirdgen radiator? The fan plugs should either be the same or easily adaptable on the ls1 harness.
11-15-2009, 09:50 AM
#26
The connectors are the same for 3rd gen electric fans and LS1 dual fans. I am using LS1 fans becuase I only have ONE of my fans from my stock setup. The other is on the IROC-Z that me and my wife sold, because one of her's stopped working and we put it on as a temporary fix. These will work just fine.
Ok, now the only things left to do are install the torque arm, re-do the wiring that went to the auto shifter for the p/n switch, starter switch, and reverse lights, disable VATS, and install radiator/heater hoses, a CAI, and the PCV system and it is ready to rock.
I got the Scorpion 1.7 rockers installed last night with the help of a friend, and my dad and I finished up the fuel line. I did it a little differently than most of you, I am going to change out the fitting on the fuel rail to a 90* angle and run it straight back to the firewall and down the trans tunnel away from the header. It comes out right by the cross member and I ran it down the frame rail like stock with the brake line, using the factory mounting tabs.
I should have undercoated the driveshaft before I put it on....oh well. I think I can manage doing it by spinning it.
Crappy pictures sorry. I'm going to get the car on a lift at my friend's work after it's running and take lots of pictures with my GOOD camera.
Also got the trans fluid changed and the Hurst re-installed, although I found that one of the bolt holes is stripped out. I'm getting a hold of a thread chaser to fix this problem.
And have no fear, I'm not done undercoating the car yet. I just wanted to cover enough that wouldn't be in the way after the fuel line was ran lol
Let's see, another thing I got done was installing the LS1 ebrake conversion cables from Ed Miller. Man they are so awesome.
And last but not least, another question for those who have already done the swap. What do you do with these hoses that went to the heater core? I don't think they'll work because they are not angled to go to the water pump on an LS1. What hoses do you guys use for this, and which hose goes to the small nipple on the radiator?
Ok, now the only things left to do are install the torque arm, re-do the wiring that went to the auto shifter for the p/n switch, starter switch, and reverse lights, disable VATS, and install radiator/heater hoses, a CAI, and the PCV system and it is ready to rock.
I got the Scorpion 1.7 rockers installed last night with the help of a friend, and my dad and I finished up the fuel line. I did it a little differently than most of you, I am going to change out the fitting on the fuel rail to a 90* angle and run it straight back to the firewall and down the trans tunnel away from the header. It comes out right by the cross member and I ran it down the frame rail like stock with the brake line, using the factory mounting tabs.
I should have undercoated the driveshaft before I put it on....oh well. I think I can manage doing it by spinning it.
Crappy pictures sorry. I'm going to get the car on a lift at my friend's work after it's running and take lots of pictures with my GOOD camera.
Also got the trans fluid changed and the Hurst re-installed, although I found that one of the bolt holes is stripped out. I'm getting a hold of a thread chaser to fix this problem.
And have no fear, I'm not done undercoating the car yet. I just wanted to cover enough that wouldn't be in the way after the fuel line was ran lol
Let's see, another thing I got done was installing the LS1 ebrake conversion cables from Ed Miller. Man they are so awesome.
And last but not least, another question for those who have already done the swap. What do you do with these hoses that went to the heater core? I don't think they'll work because they are not angled to go to the water pump on an LS1. What hoses do you guys use for this, and which hose goes to the small nipple on the radiator?
11-15-2009, 10:40 AM
#27
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Nice Conversion!!
If this hasn't been answered already, those connectors are for your wiper motor on the firewall. Interesting what you did with your fuel line..are you worried about the proximity to the driveshaft? I just left my setup stock till the engine bay and put the regulator in there. I was getting huge dead head fuel pressure after the stock filter so i didn't see the problem with it. But I like your idea!
As for your hoses going to the heater core, I just used 5/8" and 1/2" inch coolant rubber line from the water pump to the core. Cut to length you want to run them with and they work well! I had a new rad installed (3 core) so I don't have that nipple on the rad for the stock 3rd gen heater core hoses.
Hope that helps!
Good luck!
Also!!-Where do you get those e-brake cables?? I myself have a 4th gen axle in my car and need to get those hybrid cables so I can get my ebrakes working again!
And lastly, I'll end this post with a question. I found these two connectors on the headlight/washer side of the bulk connector, yet I don't remember where they go to. If anyone can refresh my memory that would be awesome. I know they're not the cruise control, I just yanked all those wires and connectors out tonight as well to clean up the bay a little.
As for your hoses going to the heater core, I just used 5/8" and 1/2" inch coolant rubber line from the water pump to the core. Cut to length you want to run them with and they work well! I had a new rad installed (3 core) so I don't have that nipple on the rad for the stock 3rd gen heater core hoses.
Hope that helps!
Good luck!
Also!!-Where do you get those e-brake cables?? I myself have a 4th gen axle in my car and need to get those hybrid cables so I can get my ebrakes working again!
11-15-2009, 09:21 PM
#29
Nice Conversion!!
If this hasn't been answered already, those connectors are for your wiper motor on the firewall. Interesting what you did with your fuel line..are you worried about the proximity to the driveshaft? I just left my setup stock till the engine bay and put the regulator in there. I was getting huge dead head fuel pressure after the stock filter so i didn't see the problem with it. But I like your idea!
As for your hoses going to the heater core, I just used 5/8" and 1/2" inch coolant rubber line from the water pump to the core. Cut to length you want to run them with and they work well! I had a new rad installed (3 core) so I don't have that nipple on the rad for the stock 3rd gen heater core hoses.
Hope that helps!
Good luck!
Also!!-Where do you get those e-brake cables?? I myself have a 4th gen axle in my car and need to get those hybrid cables so I can get my ebrakes working again!
If this hasn't been answered already, those connectors are for your wiper motor on the firewall. Interesting what you did with your fuel line..are you worried about the proximity to the driveshaft? I just left my setup stock till the engine bay and put the regulator in there. I was getting huge dead head fuel pressure after the stock filter so i didn't see the problem with it. But I like your idea!
As for your hoses going to the heater core, I just used 5/8" and 1/2" inch coolant rubber line from the water pump to the core. Cut to length you want to run them with and they work well! I had a new rad installed (3 core) so I don't have that nipple on the rad for the stock 3rd gen heater core hoses.
Hope that helps!
Good luck!
Also!!-Where do you get those e-brake cables?? I myself have a 4th gen axle in my car and need to get those hybrid cables so I can get my ebrakes working again!
Yea I figured out the connectors for the wipers, haha.
I ran the fuel lines the way I did because I didn't want to screw with the factory Fbody return style lines, I wanted just a single line up in the engine compartment.
I got the ebrake cables from here:
http://www.flynbye.com/catalog/i153.html
12-03-2009, 04:07 PM
#30
Last Saturday I had my tuner over to start it for the first time and it would crank but wouldn't fire. It wasn't getting a Tac signal...needless to say I was very dissappointed and bummed out. It was either going to be the wiring (broken wire, or wrong pin, etc) or a bad crank sensor...
I started with the easiest test to do just to see if I could get it to fire, and that was to replace the crank position sensor. I fully trust the wiring job so I really didn't think that the wiring or pinning was the issue. Sure enough, after I put a new sensor in she fired right up! It doesn't stay running for more than a few seconds but my tuner needs to come back over and finish what we started on Saturday, plus I haven't adjusted the screw on the throttle body so the idle is out of whack anyways. But nonetheless, she fired up and I am SO excited!
Just a few videos, it ran for only a second or two in the first one, but the second one it stayed running a little longer. Just enough to hear how completely awesome this thing is going to be once I get it back on the road.
I started with the easiest test to do just to see if I could get it to fire, and that was to replace the crank position sensor. I fully trust the wiring job so I really didn't think that the wiring or pinning was the issue. Sure enough, after I put a new sensor in she fired right up! It doesn't stay running for more than a few seconds but my tuner needs to come back over and finish what we started on Saturday, plus I haven't adjusted the screw on the throttle body so the idle is out of whack anyways. But nonetheless, she fired up and I am SO excited!
Just a few videos, it ran for only a second or two in the first one, but the second one it stayed running a little longer. Just enough to hear how completely awesome this thing is going to be once I get it back on the road.
12-03-2009, 08:03 PM
#31
Hey more good news...it was dying either because it was re-learning the new crank sensor or because of the fact that I had made all new fuel lines and the rails were empty, even priming the pump wasn't filling it up enough or something, because I just went back to it about 10 minutes ago and it ran for a longer amount of time. I'll bet it would have stayed running if I let it, but I shut it off after about 10 or so seconds because it's almost 8:00 here and I don't want to **** off the neighbors (yet).
12-04-2009, 09:43 PM
#33
Yea it does a little bit.I don't know the exact amount because I didn't keep all my receipts for all my tripes to AutoZone and NAPA and hardware stores, but the bulk of it including the purchase of the block, the rebuild, and all the parts I bought are in excess of $9,000.
Here it is, actually RUNNING instead of choking out every two seconds. The second video is after the idle was lowered a bit, I think it sounds pretty sick.
I have to figure out why it's overheating now. Apparently there wasn't enough coolant in the system even after I put 2 gallons in it. It still keeps taking more in. The heater core lines weren't warming up even after the first fan kicked on at 195* or whatever it is set at. I'm gonna try putting more coolant in it and see how much more it takes. If it's not because there wasn't enough coolant or because of air pockets, does this mean the water pump is shot? Or maybe the t-stat?
12-05-2009, 11:33 PM
#39
Here's what I was working on today. I have a pile of screws and bolts, and I can't remember where they all go when putting the center console back in. Also, can anyone show me a picture of how the big black "V" shaped brace is supposed to mount under the steering column? It's a support brace for the column, I can't seem to remember how it went on. :lmao:
12-06-2009, 05:14 PM
#40
My dad helped me finish the cold air intake today. I think it looks pretty good! Everything is 4", and the K&N filter is a 4" diameter, 9" long piece. We ended up cutting about an inch off one end of one of the 90* elbows in order to get it to sit low enough to clear the upper radiator hose.
I'm kind of wondering if it's going to take a long time for the springs to settle again, or if this is really how bad it will look since the block is lighter than the old one plus I have a tubular k-member now. The car used to sit pretty darn low with the Hotchkis springs...
Here is how it sat before.
I'm kind of wondering if it's going to take a long time for the springs to settle again, or if this is really how bad it will look since the block is lighter than the old one plus I have a tubular k-member now. The car used to sit pretty darn low with the Hotchkis springs...
Here is how it sat before.