*vids on pg 5* 6.0L LSX/T56 in a 1991 Z28 convertible
01-13-2010, 11:01 PM
#62
Thank guys. Yea I've been to KC numerous times though. A very good friend of mine lives there and I come to visit every so often.
Oh and for an update:
"When I went to crawl under the car tonight my heart sank... not only was there a huge spot of oil on the garage floor, the two parts that I was hoping would be the leaky problem were NOT the problem. The drain plug was dry, as was the oil filter. So I'm thinking "Crap, this sucks fat nuts..."
I look at the back of the block where the oil pan touches the bell housing and I see where the oil had come down the back of the block. I'm instantly thinking rear main seal, which would suck big *********.
This is what I'm looking at:
Then I noticed there was a run of slick spots down the side of the bell housing, a good 6 inches from the backside of the block. So I stood up and looked over the top of the block to find the best finding I could possibly imagine. The leak is coming from the oil pressure sensor, which I remember I didn't have a large enough wrench to get around it and tighten it down nice and good. I used a pair of pliers or a crescent wrench, and it obviously didn't do the job. So as you can imagine, I'm pretty relieved at this point. I'm getting hold of one of those oil pressure sensor sockets (which I didn't know existed until tonight) and will have it fixed up tomorrow.
I still have to work on the issue with the driveshaft and the tailhousing of the transmission though. I was looking at the motor mounts tonight and where the nut is touching the tabs on the GM mounts, it doesn't appear that there is any way of curing it. The "washer" is actually part of the nut itself, and besides that, there is no wiggle room in the holes on the Spohn pedestals, as well as no wiggle room with the bolt going through the middle of the motor mount either. I'm not sure how I could possibly shim the entire block down towards the ground about a 1/4" with everything bolted down. I am thinking I'm going to have to rely on simply moving the tailshaft of the trans higher into the car with some sort of spacer or shim.
Here's how the tab looks at the nut on the pedestals (I highlighted the tab in one of the pictures):
"
Oh and for an update:
"When I went to crawl under the car tonight my heart sank... not only was there a huge spot of oil on the garage floor, the two parts that I was hoping would be the leaky problem were NOT the problem. The drain plug was dry, as was the oil filter. So I'm thinking "Crap, this sucks fat nuts..."
I look at the back of the block where the oil pan touches the bell housing and I see where the oil had come down the back of the block. I'm instantly thinking rear main seal, which would suck big *********.
This is what I'm looking at:
Then I noticed there was a run of slick spots down the side of the bell housing, a good 6 inches from the backside of the block. So I stood up and looked over the top of the block to find the best finding I could possibly imagine. The leak is coming from the oil pressure sensor, which I remember I didn't have a large enough wrench to get around it and tighten it down nice and good. I used a pair of pliers or a crescent wrench, and it obviously didn't do the job. So as you can imagine, I'm pretty relieved at this point. I'm getting hold of one of those oil pressure sensor sockets (which I didn't know existed until tonight) and will have it fixed up tomorrow.
I still have to work on the issue with the driveshaft and the tailhousing of the transmission though. I was looking at the motor mounts tonight and where the nut is touching the tabs on the GM mounts, it doesn't appear that there is any way of curing it. The "washer" is actually part of the nut itself, and besides that, there is no wiggle room in the holes on the Spohn pedestals, as well as no wiggle room with the bolt going through the middle of the motor mount either. I'm not sure how I could possibly shim the entire block down towards the ground about a 1/4" with everything bolted down. I am thinking I'm going to have to rely on simply moving the tailshaft of the trans higher into the car with some sort of spacer or shim.
Here's how the tab looks at the nut on the pedestals (I highlighted the tab in one of the pictures):
"
01-14-2010, 09:20 PM
#63
This will give you guys an idea how the exhaust sounds now that it's finished. I think it sounds pretty darn good if I may say so myself. 
Again, for those that haven't read it earlier, it has the Hawks stainless longtubes with 1 3/4" primaries, 3" collectors, into a stainless y-junction from there it goes into a single stainless Magnaflow 3" bullet that dumps inches in front of the rear end.
You can really hear the exhaust note well towards the end of the video when I am sitting in the driver seat again.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0xeIrSSfeQ
Again, for those that haven't read it earlier, it has the Hawks stainless longtubes with 1 3/4" primaries, 3" collectors, into a stainless y-junction from there it goes into a single stainless Magnaflow 3" bullet that dumps inches in front of the rear end. You can really hear the exhaust note well towards the end of the video when I am sitting in the driver seat again.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0xeIrSSfeQ
01-24-2010, 08:09 PM
#66
I got some stuff done today. I hadn't put on the black plastic trapezoid shaped piece that holds the battery from jossling around, so I got that on there today. I also put together the center console, it looks pretty good with a Hurst **** instead of an auto shifter that's for sure. 
I just need to figure out why the shifter isn't lined up right in the hole, it's pretty hard to get into reverse because the side of the plate hits the shifter. Tomorrow afternoon I'm going to tackle the rest of the wire loom and trying to get the a/c delete box put on. Then once the hood is installed it will be good to go. 
I just need to figure out why the shifter isn't lined up right in the hole, it's pretty hard to get into reverse because the side of the plate hits the shifter. Tomorrow afternoon I'm going to tackle the rest of the wire loom and trying to get the a/c delete box put on. Then once the hood is installed it will be good to go.
01-24-2010, 11:05 PM
#67
You can probably smell the finish line by now!
01-25-2010, 11:00 PM
#68
I still am not 100% happy with it, but it looks better than it did. I still need to tuck away some of the a/c wiring until I end up getting a/c back on it. And I need to cut the connector off the blower motor wiring in the harness and put some kind of pin on the end of the positive and ground wires so I can re-wire it to work with this older style a/c delete box blower motor.
At least the driver side area looks a little better. I hate how the one piece of loom is huge and then I had to split it into smaller ones, but that's just the way it worked out.
At least the driver side area looks a little better. I hate how the one piece of loom is huge and then I had to split it into smaller ones, but that's just the way it worked out.
02-20-2010, 08:47 PM
#73
I didn't get to finish what I started today because I ran out of daylight and the tendon in my left arm randomly started giving me a shooting pain. 
I don't know what that's all about, but I can barely turn the door ***** in my house right now.
Anyways, I got a 160* thermostat installed from Hypertech, and I swapped out the lower radiator hose from the Silverado hose that hits the suspension to the Ford F350 hose (gates # 21505), and it's definitely bigger in diamater, hopefully I don't have any issues with it leaking. I'm just glad that it's not touching the suspension anymore.
I took the dash apart because I had to get rid of my white face gauge cluster overlay; they stopped working randomly, plus they were causing my speedo to stick at 60mph. So I got those out and changed out some bulbs in the cluster that I knew were burnt out, and when I got it back together (minus the dash pad), turns out the new bulbs don't work either. :doh: I think the plastic recepticals that the bulbs snap into are actually damaged because there isn't any contact made inside them. So I'm gonna have to snag two of them off my dad's parts car...
And I decided that since I no longer have an automatic, I'm ditching the trans temp gauge in my dual pillar pod, might even ditch the a/f one too. I've got my eyes on the AeroForce Interceptor Gen II scan gauge, and will get something like a wideband or something to fill the other spot. I gotta wait till my birthday next month to get those though, because I'm dry out of money right now.
Here's the interceptor that I really want! It shows all the parameters that you can see with a tuning software like HP Tuners, because it hooks up to the OBDII port.
I don't know what that's all about, but I can barely turn the door ***** in my house right now.Anyways, I got a 160* thermostat installed from Hypertech, and I swapped out the lower radiator hose from the Silverado hose that hits the suspension to the Ford F350 hose (gates # 21505), and it's definitely bigger in diamater, hopefully I don't have any issues with it leaking. I'm just glad that it's not touching the suspension anymore.
I took the dash apart because I had to get rid of my white face gauge cluster overlay; they stopped working randomly, plus they were causing my speedo to stick at 60mph. So I got those out and changed out some bulbs in the cluster that I knew were burnt out, and when I got it back together (minus the dash pad), turns out the new bulbs don't work either. :doh: I think the plastic recepticals that the bulbs snap into are actually damaged because there isn't any contact made inside them. So I'm gonna have to snag two of them off my dad's parts car...
And I decided that since I no longer have an automatic, I'm ditching the trans temp gauge in my dual pillar pod, might even ditch the a/f one too. I've got my eyes on the AeroForce Interceptor Gen II scan gauge, and will get something like a wideband or something to fill the other spot. I gotta wait till my birthday next month to get those though, because I'm dry out of money right now.
Here's the interceptor that I really want! It shows all the parameters that you can see with a tuning software like HP Tuners, because it hooks up to the OBDII port.
And it just plugs into the OBDII port, no hard wiring necessary. 
02-22-2010, 08:26 AM
#78
just wanted to say thank you for all the PM's..and if i can get my formula sold and get back into a 3rd gen i am probably going to print this whole damn thread or peices of it to help me with my build..and somebody did a 5.3L turbo..and i figured if a turbo has room on a 5.3L then it should work fine for a 6.0L as well...
02-22-2010, 11:50 PM
#80
Yea my thirdgen.org thread has a lot more info in it, and more bumps that got in the way of progress (most of which Pocket helped me sort out), which I posted the solutions to. You may find that more beneficial to your specific needs.
Linked here:
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/lt...road-6-0l.html
Linked here:
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/lt...road-6-0l.html