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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 12:10 AM
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Unhappy car will not start?

the car will crank but it will not start what should i look for i got fuel i got pressure i got power what sensors should i check i read something about the crank sensor if its bad the car will not start any info will help thanks
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 11:02 AM
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Default VATs turned off

Did you have the VATs turned off in the PCM? What kind of harness are you using?
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 11:53 AM
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i got the stock tune i just check if i had power and ground on the coil harness and i do and my harness was done by speartech and i just also change the crankshaft sensor and same thing it does not wanna start
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 01:22 PM
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Maybe, no inj pulse????? Check inj pulsing w/ a noid lite.
Maybe, no fire at the plugs?? Just because you have power at the coils, does not mean the plugs are firing...Check the plugs w/ a timing lite..
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 01:47 PM
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Also grounds... double check all of your grounds.
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by chuys98ls1
i got the stock tune
Does this mean no tune work at all on the PCM?

If you have not sent the PCM to anyone, your issue is VATS(vehicle anti-theft system) You MUST tune it out OR try to integrate all the factory stuff.
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 08:03 PM
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Per my previous post. VATs is going to cause this problem.
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Old Nov 6, 2009 | 03:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Old Geezer
Maybe, no inj pulse????? Check inj pulsing w/ a noid lite.
Maybe, no fire at the plugs?? Just because you have power at the coils, does not mean the plugs are firing...Check the plugs w/ a timing lite..
today i just might check for inj pulse i have have to go buy the noid lite or rent one out of autozone
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Old Nov 6, 2009 | 03:20 AM
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Originally Posted by rotor vs. piston
Also grounds... double check all of your grounds.
the only grounds that i know that are in the harness are the ones that are located in the driver head which are to 15m bolts right


Originally Posted by Lil'John
Does this mean no tune work at all on the PCM?
no work tune at all everything should be good i just swap that engine/tranny of a 2000 camaro and put on a 93 trans am. so should i go and send out my pcm to get it that vats remove then

If you have not sent the PCM to anyone, your issue is VATS(vehicle anti-theft system) You MUST tune it out OR try to integrate all the factory stuff.
well the harness was done by speartech they are really good at lt1 to ls1 swap harness i was told and i search that everything work perfectly but if i have to get tune then i will but how much will this cost me cus i;m over the budget already
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Old Nov 6, 2009 | 05:43 AM
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VATS won't keep it from starting. It will just make it die 3 seconds after starting. What kind of car is the engine in? Make sure you have power to the pcm when cranking the engine and make sure you have a good ground to the back of the head.
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Old Nov 6, 2009 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1MCSS
VATS won't keep it from starting. It will just make it die 3 seconds after starting. What kind of car is the engine in? Make sure you have power to the pcm when cranking the engine and make sure you have a good ground to the back of the head.
i check the grounds and they are good now the engine when in to a 93 trans am it come from a 2000 camaro and like i said the harness was done a speartech a sponser here which they do this kind of swap and harness and they never had problems which i search for nearly a year on people that got there harness rework by speartech i'm about to give up and send it to the shop and see if they can find the problem
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Old Nov 6, 2009 | 06:54 PM
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Are you getting 12 volts to the harness? Remember your keyed power should NOT be the power for the distributor you took out. If it is an aftermarket (speartech, etc.) harness - do you have good fuses in the fuse holder?

Someone mentioned grounds... you need a ground from the engine to the harness, from the engine to the battery AND from the engine to the body / frame.

Do you have 58 - 60 PSI of fuel at the rail? Does the fuel pump come on?

I know this sounds obvious but sometimes it's the obvious that gets us frustrated.
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Old Nov 6, 2009 | 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by gofastwclass
Are you getting 12 volts to the harness? Remember your keyed power should NOT be the power for the distributor you took out. If it is an aftermarket (speartech, etc.) harness - do you have good fuses in the fuse holder?

Someone mentioned grounds... you need a ground from the engine to the harness, from the engine to the battery AND from the engine to the body / frame.

Do you have 58 - 60 PSI of fuel at the rail? Does the fuel pump come on?

I know this sounds obvious but sometimes it's the obvious that gets us frustrated.
i check all fuses and they are all good , now the grounds the engine to the harness they are good and from the engine to the battery its good but from the engine to the frame i dont know because i dirent see any ground wire for engine to frame
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Old Nov 7, 2009 | 07:29 AM
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As LS1MCSS said above, make sure the 'switched' power wires have power in CRANK as well as the KEY ON position. I have seen where people hook them to an accessory port on their vehicle fuse box and when the key is in CRANK there is no power at these wires.
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by juced211s
As LS1MCSS said above, make sure the 'switched' power wires have power in CRANK as well as the KEY ON position. I have seen where people hook them to an accessory port on their vehicle fuse box and when the key is in CRANK there is no power at these wires.
I had this problem with my LS6 Miata swap. Good call on that.

Frank
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 02:10 PM
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Try a small blast of starter fluid (ether) in the intake and hit the key, if it fires you know you got spark and you got a fuel problem. My conversion I had plugged fuel injectors...I swapped them out with some others I had around and it fired right up.
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 02:41 PM
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Default me to bad injectors,

all 8 of them. cost me 200.00 from the injector connection
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 04:41 PM
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I thought about soaking my bad ones in seafoam, but I had the spares right there (and they were 5 years newer with less miles on them), so I gave them a try and worked right off the hop.
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 03:08 AM
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Originally Posted by juced211s
As LS1MCSS said above, make sure the 'switched' power wires have power in CRANK as well as the KEY ON position. I have seen where people hook them to an accessory port on their vehicle fuse box and when the key is in CRANK there is no power at these wires.
where can i find this wires at i dont cus i diren't do the harness i send them to get it done

Originally Posted by cutlass_455
Try a small blast of starter fluid (ether) in the intake and hit the key, if it fires you know you got spark and you got a fuel problem. My conversion I had plugged fuel injectors...I swapped them out with some others I had around and it fired right up.
i try that already and nothing i got fuel pressure i just change the fuel pump cus it was bad now i check and i dont have spark at all what can it be?i also cahnge the crank sensor already and nothing
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 03:16 PM
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Make sure you got the cam sensor plugged in properly, its at the back on top, just behind the intake. The sensor could be bad. Do you have gauges hooked up, or HP Tuners to see what the sensors picking up?? Can you see RPM while rolling?? Like those other guys were saying, make sure that the coils are gettin power during CRANK and RUN.

John at Speartech does a great job, he did mine as well as many other members here. Make sure you follow the instructions that came with your harness. He sends nice instructions that you have to read very carefully, if you miss a step you will end up in a pickle. If yours is like mine, you probly have a small fuse block added to your harness by John, one of those was for ignition wasnt it, that should be hot in CRANK and RUN.

Do you smell fuel in the exhaust??

Also consider adding that ground from engine to frame, its not hard to do, and its good insurance.
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