G body corvette brake system
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 99
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From: SUN VALLEY
G body corvette brake system has anyone done this conversion yet i seen a website www.poltergeist.us this did the conversion but i need a little more info can anybody help
TECH Regular
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 426
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From: Austin, TX
Try these guys:
http://www.kore3.com/
I have done several cars with his brackets, and his products are incredibly good! They will sell you an entire setup, or just the brackets. I buy just the brackets and hunt down my own used C6 calipers. You end up with way less than aftermarket calipers and rotors, and the performance is just as good. The PBA brakes off a C5/C6 Corvette, are top-notch!
Tobin is a great guy to deal with as well.
Regards, John McGraw
http://www.kore3.com/
I have done several cars with his brackets, and his products are incredibly good! They will sell you an entire setup, or just the brackets. I buy just the brackets and hunt down my own used C6 calipers. You end up with way less than aftermarket calipers and rotors, and the performance is just as good. The PBA brakes off a C5/C6 Corvette, are top-notch!
Tobin is a great guy to deal with as well.
Regards, John McGraw
TECH Regular
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 426
Likes: 4
From: Austin, TX
Here is a pic of the C5 big-brake setup on an A body I am building right now.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-...3/IMG_0406.jpg
Regards, John McGraw
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-...3/IMG_0406.jpg
Regards, John McGraw
Ah, try some fabrication. I made my '99 Sonoma some nasty brakes on the cheap. Some ebay CTS-v calipers, some NAPA Z-51 brake rotors, stock knuckles modded for proper mounting, and machined down the stock rotors for use as hubs with longer 4wd studs. Fits awsome. Looks just as great. Haven't tried them out yet due to the truck not running yet. But I am doing the same in the rear with stock s-10 disk backing plates, rear CTS-v calipers, and some Z06 rotors.
FYI, s-10 and G-body steering knuckles are very similar. Only thing that is differant with the ones I am using in the bosses for the backing plate mounting due to the ABS sensors.
FYI, s-10 and G-body steering knuckles are very similar. Only thing that is differant with the ones I am using in the bosses for the backing plate mounting due to the ABS sensors.
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Verdad Gallardo The spindle is a 1999 2 wheel drive Sonoma, s-10, suv with abs.
You have to cut off the ears (original single piston caliper mounting ears) and grind down till you have enough clearance for the 13.5" rotor and CTS-v caliper to fit just right.
Once that is done, you have to drill out the holes to mount the calipers. I actually bought some thick hollow round stock and cut to length. The welded them into the spindle for a good solid place to mount the caliper. Otherwise, you won't have a flat enough spot to mount the caliper.
I do not have the specs with me about the sleeves I used, not where they are positioned.
Using the Vette rotor moves the caliper and rotor face out. Which means using bolt on type wheel spacers and some off the shelf f-body/vette wheels are needed. Or have some custom wheels made. You will need a minimum of a 17" wheel. Not sure of the backspacing. But I am using 2" bolt on spacers and 17x9 ZR-1 wheels up front. And 2" wheel spacers with 17x11 ZR-1's rear.
You have to cut off the ears (original single piston caliper mounting ears) and grind down till you have enough clearance for the 13.5" rotor and CTS-v caliper to fit just right.
Once that is done, you have to drill out the holes to mount the calipers. I actually bought some thick hollow round stock and cut to length. The welded them into the spindle for a good solid place to mount the caliper. Otherwise, you won't have a flat enough spot to mount the caliper.
I do not have the specs with me about the sleeves I used, not where they are positioned.
Using the Vette rotor moves the caliper and rotor face out. Which means using bolt on type wheel spacers and some off the shelf f-body/vette wheels are needed. Or have some custom wheels made. You will need a minimum of a 17" wheel. Not sure of the backspacing. But I am using 2" bolt on spacers and 17x9 ZR-1 wheels up front. And 2" wheel spacers with 17x11 ZR-1's rear.
I have to repete it for the other side. Theone you see is the drivers side. And it was a test setup that actually worked. So when I do the other side, I want to take measurements and make a guide. But I am unsure as to how long that will be. I'm doing all my frame work on the truck now. It's taking up most of my time at the moment.
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 426
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From: Austin, TX
I hope you don't take this wrong, but here goes anyway. Why on earth would you even consider all this work, cutting, welding and machining on your spindles when a ready made bracket is available for a relatively low cost? This a load of work to save $115, not to mention the question-ability of even considering hanging your brakes on a component that is welded to the spindle. The brackets are milled from a solid billet of steel and bolt directly to the existing mounting holes on the spindles. You then just attach the stock GM calipers to the bracket with any modifications at all. There are lots of places that I will fabricate components, but brake systems ain't one of them!
Regards, John McGraw
Regards, John McGraw
Last edited by John McGraw; Dec 7, 2009 at 11:25 AM.
Well, because I am maybe $300.00 into my braking system. And I am doing all the work myself. Non of the actual structual parts of the spindle are compromised, and yeah, I have the ***** to mess with my brakes.
Look, the guy that made the original setup used 2 piston calipers. I wanted 4. Not to mention, he had to start the same way I did. By machining and messing with things till he found something that would work. I have, and at a reletively low cost.
FYI, you can buy hubs that will fit like my machined rotors. I just didn't want to pay for a set if my setup didn't work.
Look, the guy that made the original setup used 2 piston calipers. I wanted 4. Not to mention, he had to start the same way I did. By machining and messing with things till he found something that would work. I have, and at a reletively low cost.
FYI, you can buy hubs that will fit like my machined rotors. I just didn't want to pay for a set if my setup didn't work.
TECH Regular
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 426
Likes: 4
From: Austin, TX
Actually, I was not busting your *****, I was questioning the OP about why he was considering going that route when he thought that is was too complicated to understand. This is a job for an experienced welder and fabricator, not a beginner! It is still my opinion, that welded components should not be part of a braking system. This stuff is way too important to cut corners on to save a couple of bucks. It would be a different matter if there was not a pre-made alternative, but there is, and it is pretty affordable. By the way, I have right at $300 in the brakes you see in my earlier link. $115 for the brackets, $50 for a used pair of C5 calipers, $24 for caliper rebuild kits. and $114 for a new pair of rotors. The only time I invested was bolting them on, and rebuilding and repainting the calipers.
Yes, I had to machine down my hubs just like you did to get them to fit in the rotor, but that cost me nothing since I have my own lathe. since that pic was taken, I have replaced the 7/16" studs with more substantial 1/2" studs. The car is going autocrossing, and I don't want to take any chances.
Regards, John McGraw
Yes, I had to machine down my hubs just like you did to get them to fit in the rotor, but that cost me nothing since I have my own lathe. since that pic was taken, I have replaced the 7/16" studs with more substantial 1/2" studs. The car is going autocrossing, and I don't want to take any chances.
Regards, John McGraw
Last edited by John McGraw; Dec 7, 2009 at 12:58 PM.
I am sorry. I missunderstood who you were directing that comment to. But I do have to stand behind what I said if someone does question why I did mine. And I will have to say, I have fun playing around and trying to make things that don't fit, to fit. I'm a fabricator, a welder, a machinest, and an certified technition. So playing like this and getting it to work, very satisfying.
Now, I do have to say. The only part that is welded will never have a horisontal load on it. It's function is to add rigidity to where the bolts go through the spindle. And keep the caliper in it's proper position. Being opposing piston calipers, there will never be a load on them as if they were single or duel piston calipers with a slide type mounting system.
Now, I do have to say. The only part that is welded will never have a horisontal load on it. It's function is to add rigidity to where the bolts go through the spindle. And keep the caliper in it's proper position. Being opposing piston calipers, there will never be a load on them as if they were single or duel piston calipers with a slide type mounting system.
