fuel level sender in stock sender location

 

finished product

 

Here is mine, 1980 Z-28 Modded LM7/4L60-E;
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=26228

 

How were you able to get the tank to seal up with that depression running through the middle of where you drilled the tank for the new fuel pump cartridge. When you put the new piece on, did the tank "pull up flush"?

 

Yep, it has a 3/16" metal backing ring along with a 3/16" gasket. The backer ring is threaded...so the pressure from the bolts in the top pulled the back ring tight..along with the thin gas tank metal...and the gasket compressed to take up any remaining slack. if that makes sense?

 

Hey 76, I've seen your fuel tank mod on NastyZ28. It looks pretty straight forward. How much time did you spend on the mod? This looks like a great option versus outsourcing the mod or buying a pricey stainless tank.

 

ok so after modding the tank did the fuel lines hit the floor?

 

It will hit, I'm going to fab some sort of access door anyways...and make it raised a bit.

 

Hello fellow F-body poeple , I did a 700-r4 conversion into an 80' Z-28 some years ago and I just moved the cross-member back using the x-member front holes into the sub-frames rear holes and drilled new rear frame holes using the stock tranny mount . The drive-shaft I used was a Chevy Monza drive-shaft which is exactly 3" shorter than the Camaro shaft so with special u-joints (Camaro caps (2) and Monza caps (2) ) it worked perfectly . And for the shifter cable , the newer Camaro cable bracket at the tranny end bolted to the tranny and it worked pretty much perfect stock . It would hit 1st and park just barely , I never had it pop out of park although I suppose it's happened to some poeple . With 3.42 gears , BFG 275-50-15 rear in 4th gear locked up at 85mph engine rpm's were at 2500 , and still had lower 1st and 2nd compared to a hydramatic 350 . I also put rear discs off of a T/A and the posi/limited slip carrier and the fr and rear sway bars with KYB's , big block fr coils . That car handled pretty good and stopped in 126ft. from 60mph .

 

my 1972 fitebird, 6.0/ t-56 swap






i finished the swap but now its in pieces again to repaint it

 

j99fbody
Did you drive the swapped Bird any befor painting? If so, any comments on the power?

 

i am curious is anybody running drop springs?

 

Any one have some photos of the shaker hood hooked up???

 

yes i drove the bird, i dynoed it and it put down 347hp, 378tq and the motor is basically bone stock. Its a blast to drive.

 

my car has 1 in lowering blocks in rear and cut springs up front, the ls motor weighs so much less then the old pontiac that was in it.

 

^^ Nice bird, killer stance.

 

Clean build. That's what I had planned to do with my 74 camaro also. But I sold it to ship my 98 black bird up. I wish the new owner would come and haul it away. I hated selling it.

 

Guys, this is awesome information. I'm very new to the lsx family. I can do carbuerated motors all day long. So thanks for all the information. I'm saving my nickels and dimes to get an ls motor. Do ya'll think it would be cheaper to do a 5.3 vortec or a ls1 in the long run and which would be the easiest?

thanks

 

My personal experience you would be better off getting a complete ls1 F-body motor

By the time I swapped oil pans, intake, accessories on my 5.3 I could have gotten an ls1

 

for any of you converting the ls6 to a 70-81 camaro.. do any of you know if there is any mods needed with the steering at all or will it all be fine in factor location? just got an LS motor and going to swap.. very excited about this change.. save on gas priced totoally over the 12.8 comp sm block i have now..

thanks,
Chris