1963 Impala Convertible LQ4/80E Swap
01-02-2010, 01:22 PM
#1
Launching!
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1963 Impala Convertible LQ4/80E Swap I'm starting off with a Canadian Built, 1 of 3116 Impala Convertible. It came with 283 2 barrel from the factory, but needed a better swap. I picked up a 6.0 LQ4 and 4L80e combo out of Texas with 40,000miles. Came pretty much complete. Missing is the ECM and mass air flow sensor, and some of the harness. I'll be going with a replacement unit from http://ls1wiringharness.com/
The 283 and powerglide before
Dropping it with the oil pan and tranny in place
The clearence issue with stock pan
The transmisson hump needed some cutting to make the fit. After checking pinon angle, the first floor support will need to be cut. I have to replace it anyways as it is rusted out, but will need modify the new one to keep the structural intergrity.
The custom motor mounts. I'm trying to build this on a budget and spending big bucks on the junk I've seen out there, I'll fab my own.
These pics are for mock up. I need to drill in more holes to be able to bolt them to the crossmember. Passenger and drivers are different in shape, so the plates are contured to the frame.
I wanted to save some cash and see if it would work. I modified the stock truck pan. I sectioned out the biggest piece I could safely do without going too far. With the engine installed, and the pan fitted, It will sit about 5/16-3/8" at it's lowest point of the pan above the k member. I didn't have access to a band saw, so I used a sawzall.
Now, the problem is that the lower drain plug piece will not fit on the pan. I will be using 3/8 aluminum plate to bridge the gap between the two. The plate will then be cut out to allow oil flow to drain plug. Mock up fit up.
This is what the crossmember clearence must be to clear the the lowest point of the K member. I will have to notch the passenger side very little to clear the a/c bracket.
Motor mount mocked into place.
Much more to come as time progesses.................
The 283 and powerglide before
Dropping it with the oil pan and tranny in place
The clearence issue with stock pan
The transmisson hump needed some cutting to make the fit. After checking pinon angle, the first floor support will need to be cut. I have to replace it anyways as it is rusted out, but will need modify the new one to keep the structural intergrity.
The custom motor mounts. I'm trying to build this on a budget and spending big bucks on the junk I've seen out there, I'll fab my own.
These pics are for mock up. I need to drill in more holes to be able to bolt them to the crossmember. Passenger and drivers are different in shape, so the plates are contured to the frame.
I wanted to save some cash and see if it would work. I modified the stock truck pan. I sectioned out the biggest piece I could safely do without going too far. With the engine installed, and the pan fitted, It will sit about 5/16-3/8" at it's lowest point of the pan above the k member. I didn't have access to a band saw, so I used a sawzall.
Now, the problem is that the lower drain plug piece will not fit on the pan. I will be using 3/8 aluminum plate to bridge the gap between the two. The plate will then be cut out to allow oil flow to drain plug. Mock up fit up.
This is what the crossmember clearence must be to clear the the lowest point of the K member. I will have to notch the passenger side very little to clear the a/c bracket.
Motor mount mocked into place.
Much more to come as time progesses.................
01-03-2010, 08:39 AM
#2
Hahaha. Making of the old mounts yourself I see. Nice. Did you really think it was necessary to use 3/8 steel and make two passes with your welder? With the way your welds look I am quite sure one pass would have been quite sufficient. 
What are you doing for headers, are you making those too? I've got a 61 but I'm not at the point of mocking up the engine. For the oil pan I was going to use the GMPP "muscle car oil pan kit" in mine and see how it fits. The whole thing is $150, comes with all the bagpipes and BS necessary to work and is built similar to the Gen I oil pan that used to live in the car. You are right about the kits, I've not seen one that had quality worth the $$$ spent for the fit I wanted compared to what I can fab for a fraction of the cost. One would think someone would make a kit that actually fit for that kind of dough. Maybe something from S&P will actually fit properly but I don't have access to S&P kind of cash without doing something I would later regret so for me it's backyard bookie all the way!
Nice job so far, keep us posted.
What are you doing for headers, are you making those too? I've got a 61 but I'm not at the point of mocking up the engine. For the oil pan I was going to use the GMPP "muscle car oil pan kit" in mine and see how it fits. The whole thing is $150, comes with all the bagpipes and BS necessary to work and is built similar to the Gen I oil pan that used to live in the car. You are right about the kits, I've not seen one that had quality worth the $$$ spent for the fit I wanted compared to what I can fab for a fraction of the cost. One would think someone would make a kit that actually fit for that kind of dough. Maybe something from S&P will actually fit properly but I don't have access to S&P kind of cash without doing something I would later regret so for me it's backyard bookie all the way!
Nice job so far, keep us posted.
01-03-2010, 11:19 AM
#3
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Hahaha. Making of the old mounts yourself I see. Nice. Did you really think it was necessary to use 3/8 steel and make two passes with your welder? With the way your welds look I am quite sure one pass would have been quite sufficient.
What are you doing for headers, are you making those too? I've got a 61 but I'm not at the point of mocking up the engine. For the oil pan I was going to use the GMPP "muscle car oil pan kit" in mine and see how it fits. The whole thing is $150, comes with all the bagpipes and BS necessary to work and is built similar to the Gen I oil pan that used to live in the car. You are right about the kits, I've not seen one that had quality worth the $$$ spent for the fit I wanted compared to what I can fab for a fraction of the cost. One would think someone would make a kit that actually fit for that kind of dough. Maybe something from S&P will actually fit properly but I don't have access to S&P kind of cash without doing something I would later regret so for me it's backyard bookie all the way!
Nice job so far, keep us posted.
What are you doing for headers, are you making those too? I've got a 61 but I'm not at the point of mocking up the engine. For the oil pan I was going to use the GMPP "muscle car oil pan kit" in mine and see how it fits. The whole thing is $150, comes with all the bagpipes and BS necessary to work and is built similar to the Gen I oil pan that used to live in the car. You are right about the kits, I've not seen one that had quality worth the $$$ spent for the fit I wanted compared to what I can fab for a fraction of the cost. One would think someone would make a kit that actually fit for that kind of dough. Maybe something from S&P will actually fit properly but I don't have access to S&P kind of cash without doing something I would later regret so for me it's backyard bookie all the way!
Nice job so far, keep us posted.
Headers.... not sure what I'm going to do there. Living up in Canada makes it hard to buy something and if it doesn't fit, you're stuck with the part. Getting raped with UPS brokerage fees, tax and expensive shipping just adds to the fustration. I don't want to go through the B.S header issues like that 62 Impala build that's on here.
01-03-2010, 11:42 AM
#4
LOL. I am glad someone else questioned the multiple passes when I first seen this thread. 3/8 matrl.... not a biggie. but ya warped the **** outta it. LOL. Why did you cut up the trany tunnel so soon? Good luck with the swap.
Jim
Jim
01-03-2010, 02:53 PM
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It pulled fairly good with the passes. I'll bend it back with the press.
I had to cut the tunnel out, it wouldn't fit any other way. It was too wide with the controls on the drivers side. I still have to build the tranny mount. I need to get a poly unit tomorrow so it's bang on. The pinion also needs to go up another 2 degrees which will mean the floor support will need to be cut out in the center. I am hoping that the driveshaft will not bind against the frame. I am not sure if I will try a one piece shaft or run the upgraded poly carrier bearing with larger drive shaft tube size?
01-03-2010, 03:23 PM
#6
I had the 3/8 material kicking around so why not? Maybe I'll drill out some of plate to change up the bulkyness, FYI it was three passes, but only on the outsides lol.
Headers.... not sure what I'm going to do there. Living up in Canada makes it hard to buy something and if it doesn't fit, you're stuck with the part. Getting raped with UPS brokerage fees, tax and expensive shipping just adds to the fustration. I don't want to go through the B.S header issues like that 62 Impala build that's on here.
Headers.... not sure what I'm going to do there. Living up in Canada makes it hard to buy something and if it doesn't fit, you're stuck with the part. Getting raped with UPS brokerage fees, tax and expensive shipping just adds to the fustration. I don't want to go through the B.S header issues like that 62 Impala build that's on here.
With the look of your flawless welds I seriously think one pass would have been more than sufficient. I've seen some people who look like they threw bubble gum and sand on something and it magically sticks together. I strive for good looking welds too, saves on finish work and worry that it may fail. Hey, living in the states isn't too much better when it comes to internet returns - only we don't have the BS brokerage fees. I'm seriously thinking of buying some flanges and a box of mandrel bends and making my own. Then I can put the pipes where I want them and I will build them around the other things I have going in the engine compartment. I've wanted to do this for years and never had the project worthy, the time to spend or the situation where there wasn't something commercially available.
01-05-2010, 08:53 PM
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THREE!!! Holy cow no wonder it was warped! Are you building a 6000 HP drag car? hahahaha!!! I wasn't challenging the 3/8 material as much as the multiple passes really. Granted 11 ga. would have been fine but I can fully understand the "what I had laying around" deal. I have some parts that are about to be made from 1x3 box tubing for the same reason. With the look of your flawless welds I seriously think one pass would have been more than sufficient. I've seen some people who look like they threw bubble gum and sand on something and it magically sticks together. I strive for good looking welds too, saves on finish work and worry that it may fail.
Hey, living in the states isn't too much better when it comes to internet returns - only we don't have the BS brokerage fees. I'm seriously thinking of buying some flanges and a box of mandrel bends and making my own. Then I can put the pipes where I want them and I will build them around the other things I have going in the engine compartment. I've wanted to do this for years and never had the project worthy, the time to spend or the situation where there wasn't something commercially available.
With the look of your flawless welds I seriously think one pass would have been more than sufficient. I've seen some people who look like they threw bubble gum and sand on something and it magically sticks together. I strive for good looking welds too, saves on finish work and worry that it may fail. Hey, living in the states isn't too much better when it comes to internet returns - only we don't have the BS brokerage fees. I'm seriously thinking of buying some flanges and a box of mandrel bends and making my own. Then I can put the pipes where I want them and I will build them around the other things I have going in the engine compartment. I've wanted to do this for years and never had the project worthy, the time to spend or the situation where there wasn't something commercially available.
Just buy to nice heavy flanges and bolt them to some thick steel so they don't pull like my motor mounts!!
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01-06-2010, 08:37 PM
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I'm going to be doing a similar swap with my 62 Biscayne. I'm wondering why you used a 80-e instead of a 60-e, it might have been able to keep you form cutting up the floor. Just wondering, not knocking it. I heard stock manifolds work,just don't know what ones to use. You using a stock column for shifter or going floor shifter. I'm going to use a ididit column /shift with tilt.
01-06-2010, 09:30 PM
#10
'99 F-body stainless manifolds fit a '64 imp SS frame. No trans tunnel cutting for a 4l60E.
Go here and look at the Imp SS pics:
http://s704.photobucket.com/albums/w...afilter=images
Go here and look at the Imp SS pics:
http://s704.photobucket.com/albums/w...afilter=images
01-06-2010, 09:39 PM
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I'm going to be doing a similar swap with my 62 Biscayne. I'm wondering why you used a 80-e instead of a 60-e, it might have been able to keep you form cutting up the floor. Just wondering, not knocking it. I heard stock manifolds work,just don't know what ones to use. You using a stock column for shifter or going floor shifter. I'm going to use a ididit column /shift with tilt.
I went with 80e because it's stronger than the 60e without having to spend more money on upgrades down the road to beef it up. When I bought them, they were bolted together already so flexplate changing etc.
The floor is not a big deal. Someone before me had tried to put in manual so the hole just got a whole lot bigger! Minor sheet metal fab there.
I think I might go with a column out of a 90's chev pickup. I sold some parts to guy who said he used one in his biscanye. He said it had the same overall length and fit right in??? Gotta find out for myself though. That way I'll have cruise, tilt, wiper delay. I want to put in a better wiper motor setup instead of two speeds. It will see some rain, so make it modern. Column shift is plan.
01-23-2010, 10:31 AM
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Ok, here's some updates:
I had an extra Impala rear end that I used to get the brackets off of. I welded a piece of steel across to keep the brackets aligned. Then welded them to the 85 Toyota rear diff.
Stock 7.5" carrier
TrueTrac Locker
After putting in new pinion bearings and races, upsized bearings for the 50mm carrier journals, it was then professionally setup for pinion preloaded/lashed.
I had an extra Impala rear end that I used to get the brackets off of. I welded a piece of steel across to keep the brackets aligned. Then welded them to the 85 Toyota rear diff.
Stock 7.5" carrier
TrueTrac Locker
After putting in new pinion bearings and races, upsized bearings for the 50mm carrier journals, it was then professionally setup for pinion preloaded/lashed.
01-23-2010, 10:33 AM
#13
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I took a trip three weekends ago to pick up a parts car. It's very hard to find vert parts up here so you take what you can. This one was out in Saskatoon.
Doin it's first and last three
Looks to be factory tach hole. Not all hacked.
The front and rear wheels would not spin at all so it was winch time. Good thing for some frost on the deck and no motor to make it an easier pull.
Doin it's first and last three
Looks to be factory tach hole. Not all hacked.
The front and rear wheels would not spin at all so it was winch time. Good thing for some frost on the deck and no motor to make it an easier pull.
01-23-2010, 10:35 AM
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I couldn't get the car off the trailer so we cut it up right on it. I saved the parts I needed and junked the rest... It was a blakc on black with a 6cyl. I should get my GM docs back for it this week to find out more history.
01-23-2010, 10:36 AM
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I went with the big brake kit from Classic Performance Products. 13" front, 12" rear, drop spindles, upgraded master cylinder and the CPP 500 series steeringbox. Also I bought all new tie rods, ball joints etc at the same time too.
01-23-2010, 10:39 AM
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So I did a little work on the rear end. The toyo bolt pattern is 4.5x5 and the stock impala is 4.75x5. I didn't want to run two different sizes wheel studs threads and different bolt pattern in case something should happen on a road trip.
I took a template and check to make sure I didn't drill any in the wrong spot.
After with new wheel studs
Rear 12" disc
Next was getting a new bracket lined up. The kit comes with one but is designed for the Impala axle not a toyo.
This is a template that I will use. It will be split it in two and weld it togther. It will fit as a flat piece of 3/8" plate with maybe a 1/8" shim to center up the caliper on the rotor.
I took a template and check to make sure I didn't drill any in the wrong spot.
After with new wheel studs
Rear 12" disc
Next was getting a new bracket lined up. The kit comes with one but is designed for the Impala axle not a toyo.
This is a template that I will use. It will be split it in two and weld it togther. It will fit as a flat piece of 3/8" plate with maybe a 1/8" shim to center up the caliper on the rotor.
01-23-2010, 10:39 AM
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Ok, so I spent about an hour last night and finished off the one side of the rear brakes. Worked out real nice. The 3/8" plate was drilled and tapped so it will hold the axles in. The kit came with a 1/8" spacer, which shimmed the caliper out perfect.
01-23-2010, 11:07 AM
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I've got a few of those 63s myself and been debating a similar swap. I used to have one for a DD/toy , but I've already broke the rearend once, broke 3 carrier bearings, and after beefing up the last carrier bearing, I broke the driveshaft. With that said, here's two questions I have for you...
Why did you use a 7.5 toyota rearend?
What are you going to do about a driveshaft? I'd like to make a one piece but the frame is sort of in the way of that.
Why did you use a 7.5 toyota rearend?
What are you going to do about a driveshaft? I'd like to make a one piece but the frame is sort of in the way of that.
01-23-2010, 12:26 PM
#19
I too am curious about the Toyota rear... I've heard of some people using them but never met or talked to one on a forum.
I laughed my a$$ off when I saw this...
I think the cold or chemical solvents are starting to get to you. hahaha!
01-23-2010, 02:53 PM
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I've got a few of those 63s myself and been debating a similar swap. I used to have one for a DD/toy , but I've already broke the rearend once, broke 3 carrier bearings, and after beefing up the last carrier bearing, I broke the driveshaft. With that said, here's two questions I have for you...
Why did you use a 7.5 toyota rearend?
The toyo rear end is narrower and stronger, plus full floating axle.
96 and up axles are 1.5" shorter, 96 and under and 2.5" shorter over all then a stock Impala. Impala diff are garbage.
If...... you ever want to run fender skirts with reverse offset wire wheels, or wider tires, you need to shorten the diff. The cost is expensive for a ford 9, plus you still have to either buy new axles or get them machined...$110hr.
I've been told these can handle up 600hp.....I kinda doubt it but you know know. This conversion is very common in the lowrider world.
What are you going to do about a driveshaft? I'd like to make a one piece but the frame is sort of in the way of that.
Why did you use a 7.5 toyota rearend?
The toyo rear end is narrower and stronger, plus full floating axle.
96 and up axles are 1.5" shorter, 96 and under and 2.5" shorter over all then a stock Impala. Impala diff are garbage.
If...... you ever want to run fender skirts with reverse offset wire wheels, or wider tires, you need to shorten the diff. The cost is expensive for a ford 9, plus you still have to either buy new axles or get them machined...$110hr.
I've been told these can handle up 600hp.....I kinda doubt it but you know know. This conversion is very common in the lowrider world.
What are you going to do about a driveshaft? I'd like to make a one piece but the frame is sort of in the way of that.
I will most likely go with a two piece with an upgraded soild type carrier bearing. There have been guys that have put one pieces in, but you need to notch out the frame pretty good. This is a convertible so I do not have the roof structure needed to be hacking up the driveshaft tunnel. I would have to do major re-enforcing which just isn't worth it.