Removing stubborn harmonic balancer bolt
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Removing stubborn harmonic balancer bolt Any tips?, I'm trying to remove it (5.3) to swap a Fbody HB in it's place.
I've even used my impact wrench and it's not budging.....Next step is a breaker bar, where can I insert something to keep the harmonic balancer from moving?
Bolt comes out counter-clockwise correct?
I've even used my impact wrench and it's not budging.....Next step is a breaker bar, where can I insert something to keep the harmonic balancer from moving?
Bolt comes out counter-clockwise correct?
Last edited by 1976CamaroGuy; Mar 29, 2018 at 10:01 AM.
It has regular threads.
I made this https://ls1tech.com/forums/tools-fab...made-tool.html and it makes removing and installing the balancer bolt pretty easy - it is now painted a nice coat of rattle can black
I made this https://ls1tech.com/forums/tools-fab...made-tool.html and it makes removing and installing the balancer bolt pretty easy - it is now painted a nice coat of rattle can black
Yes it comes out counter-clockwise. The same thought crossed my mine when I was taking mine off.
I had mine on an engine stand when I took mine off so I had more room to work. I had someone stick a 4ft pry bar between two of the three spoke (truck balancer) while I got my 24" 3/4" drive breaker bar pulling like a mad man and it finally broke lose. It just takes some time, muscle, and a few adult beverages
to break it lose. Don't get frustrated and rush it will eventually come off with enough pressure. Some guys say to heat up the bolt (I wouldn't) and it will breakdown the sealant on the head, but if you do this give the bolt head enough time to cool down so you don't round it off since the metal will be softer. I also used a 15/16" socket because it fit better than the 24mm.
Good Luck!!
I had mine on an engine stand when I took mine off so I had more room to work. I had someone stick a 4ft pry bar between two of the three spoke (truck balancer) while I got my 24" 3/4" drive breaker bar pulling like a mad man and it finally broke lose. It just takes some time, muscle, and a few adult beverages
to break it lose. Don't get frustrated and rush it will eventually come off with enough pressure. Some guys say to heat up the bolt (I wouldn't) and it will breakdown the sealant on the head, but if you do this give the bolt head enough time to cool down so you don't round it off since the metal will be softer. I also used a 15/16" socket because it fit better than the 24mm.Good Luck!!
counter clockwise to remove, yes
Force your compressor to pump up more by holding the shut off switch or just blow some air out to cylce it and see if you get enough pressure build to bust the bolt loose. I only remove mine with the impact.
Force your compressor to pump up more by holding the shut off switch or just blow some air out to cylce it and see if you get enough pressure build to bust the bolt loose. I only remove mine with the impact.
its the combination of that orange stuff on the washer head of the bolt and the fact that they are torqued to 250ft lb! they are a bitch. can you find a way (a friend)to hold the flexplate still? then put a breaker bar on the bolt. yes, it comes out counter clockwise.
I agree with jo... have someone hold the flywheel or use a screwdriver while you turn. Some cheap no name air ratchets are not very stout, if yours isn't a top brand that could be part of your problem.
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Lossen the bolt That bolt is tight no question.
If it's in the car take out the starter and clamp a vise grip to the flex plate so it comes up against the block. Works the same way if the engine is on the stand. The vise grip has to be ttttttite.
If it's in the car take out the starter and clamp a vise grip to the flex plate so it comes up against the block. Works the same way if the engine is on the stand. The vise grip has to be ttttttite.
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I found that a little heat goes a long way. Mine would not budge until I hit the bolt head with a little heat. Not enough to damage anything but enough to soften the sealant on the bolt head.
balancer bolt removal this is really ghetto but its how I removed mine 14" 1/2 inch drive breaker bar
6x6 wooden block put the breaker bar on the bolt rest the end of it on the 6x6 and just tap the starter, do not to start the engine, just bump it a couple of times and it will loosen right up.
Its best if you can have a buddy watch so that you know when its loose.
6x6 wooden block put the breaker bar on the bolt rest the end of it on the 6x6 and just tap the starter, do not to start the engine, just bump it a couple of times and it will loosen right up.
Its best if you can have a buddy watch so that you know when its loose.
That's a great way to break the starter flange off the block. Do a search about that if you want to see how much fun that fix is
Manual guys, leave the trans in high gear and yank on it with a breaker bar
Auto guys lock the flexplate. Theres a special tool for this or jam a screwdriver in
Engine stand, use a pneumatic gun. 350+ lb/ft will knock it off with a couple dugga dugga's
Manual guys, leave the trans in high gear and yank on it with a breaker bar
Auto guys lock the flexplate. Theres a special tool for this or jam a screwdriver in
Engine stand, use a pneumatic gun. 350+ lb/ft will knock it off with a couple dugga dugga's
There's a link in post 12 above. This tool is cheap and also comes in handy when you have to reinstall the bolt since you have to torque the living **** out of it. It helps to have the flywheel securely locked and not worry about it moving during reinstallation.