96 mustang Gt lsx swap
03-11-2010, 06:40 PM
#42
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Have been sick and havnt really worked on lately. Before car goes to get the cage this weekend take some pics. Waiting on the heads, cam and gaskets to start working on again. All other major parts be here mid next week.
03-11-2010, 06:44 PM
#43
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Car with me my teenage daughter spare tire and lugguge with full tank of gas it weighed 3460lbs with 4.6 5spd. Thinking with swap and cage and that be right at 34 to 35 hundred.
03-11-2010, 08:17 PM
#44
Probably a little more then that. I think a cage is around 35 lbs. The 6.0 lq4 weighs 60 more lbs then a modular 4.6. And the 4l60 weighs like 65-70 more lbs then the t45 trans you had. I am betting you will be around 3600 race weight. About the same as a f-body. Which with you setup you should be around 420-430 rwhp N/A and you should go low to mid 11's at 115 give or take. Remember Our DA averages 3000-3500 ft.
03-17-2010, 09:10 PM
#48
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Car b coming back from getn roll bar Thursday or Friday. Heads will b done Friday and get shipped Friday or Monday. Have all parts and be speeding up the build the following weekend.
03-17-2010, 09:41 PM
#49
03-18-2010, 04:11 PM
#53
my build is on a budget and i really wanna keep the stock gauges
03-18-2010, 04:53 PM
#54
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On the oil and temp gauges just adapt the stock senders to the engine and wire to factory wiring, on the tach just connect the wire out of the engine harness to the vehicle. The speedometer could be tricky depending on trans.
03-18-2010, 08:40 PM
#57
i can see how the oil, temp, voltage, and fuel gauges can be made to work, but i've read something about lsx engine sending out a 4cyl pulse for the tach, so a converter is needed.... any truth to this?
and i'm starting off with a v6 shell. the speed cut off is 120
i'll hopefully be going faster than that at the track.
i wonder if a GT cluster is a plug n play type of deal, or if its best to get some type of overlays and some how adjust them.....
03-18-2010, 09:39 PM
#58
Dan, 1st off, congratulations on getting all the parts out to our shop, it's time to play!!
I was told a few of you have questions about this build and some of the wiring, so I figured I better show up and try to answer as best I can.
As far as the insturments go, i'll be utilizing all his OE dash ones plus his aftermarket autometer ones. The easiest way to do so is like notch5.3 said, use the stock Ford senders in the LS motor. this won't present an issue for the oil PSI as i'm going to remove the stock sender in the back top area of the block. The PCM doesn't need to know oil PSI anyway. I'll place a Y fitting and install both the autometer and stock oil PSI unit. I have also thought about drilling/tapping the stock oil cooler return line pad on the pan for the 2nd sending unit, depending on how putting a Y in the upper one looks.
As far as water temp. It's going to be tough to use both the autometer, stock, and PCM sending units as there is only 1 place on each head for this. I have used the '98 Fbody sending unit before as this unit has two outputs, but I need to verify that the Ford guage uses the same resistance readings vs. temp as the GM. Might get lucky on that one, stay tuned.
Tach and speedo, these are the easy ones. We use HP Tuners for all our swaps/programming. I am able to configure the tach output to whatever I like. However I will have to add a pull-up resistor to the tach output line to get the voltage up to what's needed to drive an external tach. From '94 on Ford uses an electronic speedometer, so basically I just change the pulses/mile in my tune till I get what I need for the Ford speedo head to function proper.
I plan on making this as seamless as possible on the install. I am going to utilize all the stock 4.6 engine wiring I can. Injector power, coils, ect. will all use the stock power feeds the stang already has.
As far as the stock PCM, still working on that. I'm probably going to end up removing it entirely, but am unsure at this point as I don't want any Theft lights and such, again, going to have to take this one as it comes at me.
Plenty of pics will come when we get this in the shop and begin. He's pretty much just been collecting parts for the last 6 months, but now I got all them at the shop, and here we go.
For those of you that MIGHT ask, lol, my username has nothing to do with this swap. I used to own a '96 GT, till I turned to the dark side and made a deal with Satan himself....
Stay tuned!
I was told a few of you have questions about this build and some of the wiring, so I figured I better show up and try to answer as best I can.
As far as the insturments go, i'll be utilizing all his OE dash ones plus his aftermarket autometer ones. The easiest way to do so is like notch5.3 said, use the stock Ford senders in the LS motor. this won't present an issue for the oil PSI as i'm going to remove the stock sender in the back top area of the block. The PCM doesn't need to know oil PSI anyway. I'll place a Y fitting and install both the autometer and stock oil PSI unit. I have also thought about drilling/tapping the stock oil cooler return line pad on the pan for the 2nd sending unit, depending on how putting a Y in the upper one looks.
As far as water temp. It's going to be tough to use both the autometer, stock, and PCM sending units as there is only 1 place on each head for this. I have used the '98 Fbody sending unit before as this unit has two outputs, but I need to verify that the Ford guage uses the same resistance readings vs. temp as the GM. Might get lucky on that one, stay tuned.
Tach and speedo, these are the easy ones. We use HP Tuners for all our swaps/programming. I am able to configure the tach output to whatever I like. However I will have to add a pull-up resistor to the tach output line to get the voltage up to what's needed to drive an external tach. From '94 on Ford uses an electronic speedometer, so basically I just change the pulses/mile in my tune till I get what I need for the Ford speedo head to function proper.
I plan on making this as seamless as possible on the install. I am going to utilize all the stock 4.6 engine wiring I can. Injector power, coils, ect. will all use the stock power feeds the stang already has.
As far as the stock PCM, still working on that. I'm probably going to end up removing it entirely, but am unsure at this point as I don't want any Theft lights and such, again, going to have to take this one as it comes at me.
Plenty of pics will come when we get this in the shop and begin. He's pretty much just been collecting parts for the last 6 months, but now I got all them at the shop, and here we go.
For those of you that MIGHT ask, lol, my username has nothing to do with this swap. I used to own a '96 GT, till I turned to the dark side and made a deal with Satan himself....
Stay tuned!
Last edited by 96gt4.6; 03-18-2010 at 09:45 PM.
03-19-2010, 07:13 AM
#59
After talking to the Tech guy over at dynatech, these headers are meant to fit with the stock steering shaft. And even a flaming river shaft wouldn't fix my issue. Where the column comes out of the firewire, it points directly at the header. Can't get any shaft on there at all.
But I have a thread going here in Conversion section. I'll keep it update, and once I find a solution to my problem, i'll let everyone know.
But I have a thread going here in Conversion section. I'll keep it update, and once I find a solution to my problem, i'll let everyone know.
03-19-2010, 04:58 PM
#60
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no way in hell an lq4 is 60 lbs heavier than a modular iron blocked 4.6. i could lift up a set of ls heads with my middle finger where as pi heads strain a whole arm to pick up. my engine stand was relieved to have the 6.0 in the mods place.