its official...nova is gettin a ls!
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looks sweet...i really, really wanted to go turbo...but i really dont have the time to do the fabing right now.....some day!
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Little update...parts have been trickling in, got the accessory drive in and on tonight, also got my push rods this week, painted the valve covers and other little things. what ya think? i think its starting to look good...but you be the judge!
tomarrow i'm getting my oil pan back from the welder too
tomarrow i'm getting my oil pan back from the welder too
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ok now the questions...how do i wire the alternator? looking at it the plug has 4 wires + the bat post, the wire in the picture to the left is a dummy(only 3 prongs on the alt) . ok now dont say the computer controls the voltage...(its a carb set up) so i need to know how to wire this for 1 wire operation i way that it wont cause short life for the alt. i've done a few searchs but coming up empty... help me out!
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thanks frojoe.....i really like your build i would of love'd to gone turbo....but i just dont have the time to do the fabbing right now, so in your defence....you have /had alot of work!
my goal is in and running in may...i still need to get headers/starter/clutch/flywheel, might have to lengthen my drive shaft and waiting on my 6 speed to come back from the trans shop( was popping out of reverse...figured while it was out!)
my goal is in and running in may...i still need to get headers/starter/clutch/flywheel, might have to lengthen my drive shaft and waiting on my 6 speed to come back from the trans shop( was popping out of reverse...figured while it was out!)
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ok frojoe here ya go... she was a very nice complete running car before this build , had a afr headed 355 that was pretty stout, i've owned her since i was 15, the body is pretty nice, help i own a body shop lol ...altho next year id like to swap out the suspension and get new wheels
Last edited by jasonsnova; Mar 29, 2010 at 07:24 PM.
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ok now the next thing ...just got my oil pan back from the welder today, instead of just choping it we took a few inches out of the middle and welded it back together it looks a little more oem this way....now i have to sandblast and paint it.
next that brings us to the oil pick up....for thos of you that have mod'd your pans how much clearance are you leaving between the pickup and the pan? i currently have it mocked up at slightly more than 3/8th's of a inch...is that good ...i forgot to check the clearance on the pan in stock form so i dont have anything to go by.
next that brings us to the oil pick up....for thos of you that have mod'd your pans how much clearance are you leaving between the pickup and the pan? i currently have it mocked up at slightly more than 3/8th's of a inch...is that good ...i forgot to check the clearance on the pan in stock form so i dont have anything to go by.
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408 my...my what a purty engine ya got there. Which AFR heads didchya get?
On my Nova swap, I had the factory LS1 Alt. converted over to a 1 wire setup. A local guy did this by swapping the regulator inside. I have had it this way for over a year and still works great....just run a single wire from the post on the back of the Alt to your battery and done.
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OK guys finished everything up on the engine,got the tranny back and refinished and decided to test fit it tonight so i can check the trans mission hole in the floor (gonna have to be moved forward 2" from the sbc/t56 combo) and get the correct drive shaft length all before i paint the fire wall.......good f-in thing
now the problems beginput the engine in and it seems like the small block engine stands(on frame) are to close together by probally 3/8" on each side which will not let it sit all the way down, i even tried loosening the stands to see if there was any play and retighten( got maybe a 1/8" out of each one) ...no dice. so now as far as i can see i have three options
1 unbolt stands and slot frame and of stands for more adjustment
2 unbolt stands and weld them to frame
3 try removing the plate that is between the carshop plates and the motor mounts( they come with the energy suspenion mounts) , not sure if they will be ok with out them?? i think they will seeing how they would mount against the plates/flat surface.
open to ideas i messed around with it for 3.5 hrs now i'm pissed off and fustrated... am i missing something?
now the problems beginput the engine in and it seems like the small block engine stands(on frame) are to close together by probally 3/8" on each side which will not let it sit all the way down, i even tried loosening the stands to see if there was any play and retighten( got maybe a 1/8" out of each one) ...no dice. so now as far as i can see i have three options
1 unbolt stands and slot frame and of stands for more adjustment
2 unbolt stands and weld them to frame
3 try removing the plate that is between the carshop plates and the motor mounts( they come with the energy suspenion mounts) , not sure if they will be ok with out them?? i think they will seeing how they would mount against the plates/flat surface.
open to ideas i messed around with it for 3.5 hrs now i'm pissed off and fustrated... am i missing something?
I'm not sure about car shop's mounts specifically, but it doesn't look right to me...I think you need to just swap the assemblies (engine mounts and adapters) from side to side.
I'm not using carshop's adapters on my nova, but they're basically the same setup and that's how I have them installed. Though I did move my frame mounts back in order to setback my motor further but that really shouldn't make a difference in how the mounts fit together.
I'm not using carshop's adapters on my nova, but they're basically the same setup and that's how I have them installed. Though I did move my frame mounts back in order to setback my motor further but that really shouldn't make a difference in how the mounts fit together.
Last edited by 350SS; Apr 17, 2010 at 02:51 PM.
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ok ....well i mostly got the mounts figured out, last night i had the mounts reversed , fixed that but it still didnt fit...the oil pan hit the crossmember and the holes didnt quite line up probally 3/8th" away from being able to put the motor mount bolts in, so i ened up makeing up a set of shims and putting them between the frame and the stands.....pain in the *** but every thing lines up now.
next i have to move the shifter hole forward about 2", worst thing about is the the dyna mat stuff i put down is absolutly ridiculess to get off! i dont have much to get off but it is gonna take a while!
next i have to move the shifter hole forward about 2", worst thing about is the the dyna mat stuff i put down is absolutly ridiculess to get off! i dont have much to get off but it is gonna take a while!
I don't know if it works with dynamat but I know some guys freeze the factory sound deadener with dry ice before removal and it makes thing alot easier...can basically chip it out in big pieces.
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ya i dont think dry ice would work on this stuff...it is a bueltle (sp?) based product(same as the stuff around windshields in old cars) either way its gonna be a pain... i'll be getting back on her later this afternoon...
