I can't see the difference between the dull and polished headlight. LOL. Nothing like instant gratification.

 

a few more pics of my progress

guage pod still needs a bit of tweaking
:



better pics of the charge pipes and BOV (ignore the bunched up wiring on the right side ,,, it will be cleaned up ) :







and I finally connected the AC signal wire

time to charge It

 

wooot, good work man. Get some videos next time it hits the dyno, want to hear this bad boy in action

 

will do

so I took the car home to drive it around and break it in , sadly the fuel pressure issue is not fixed , fuel pressure still drops at high loads .

and since I ruled out the fuel filter being restrictive , I'm now leaning towards fuel cavitation just before the pump.

I'm thinking that since the pump is sitting above the tank , it might be struggling to suck the fuel out of the tank and thus causing it to "boil" and bubble , which in turn leads to the pressure dropping .

the problem is that I have seen some time ago the pump in this exact location on a yellow RSR racing Porsche , which is confusing me right now .

and doing a bit more research , I seem to need around 375 LPH ( comes out to 600 Lbs/hr or 100 Gal/Hr )of fuel to cover my needs on this setup, and looking at the flow charts on the web it seems the 044 pump can only provide somewhere in the neighborhood of 250 -270 LPH at 60-70 psi of pressure ,,, so this might be the issue I'm facing right now.

so I guess I should give the new AEM 380 pump a try since it fits in the same place as the bosch and takes the same fittings.

so ,,, next up is swapping the fuel pump and seeing what this will do

 

Hi Sammy!


If you have an NPSH problem (Net Positive Suction Head), you need to make sure your suction line is sized correctly.

Unfortunately, the vapor pressure of the gas here in the Kingdom is unknown (we actually have to import - go figure). It could be anywhere from 48 kpa to 103 kpa (7 psig to 15 psig). If you're trying to suck a high flow through a small line, it'll reach vapor pressure and one of the components will out-gas. If there are any options for installing a larger suction line, make sure you choose the largest line possible.

Does the fuel pressure drop all the time or just when the tank is near empty? When the tank is full, that extra 0.5 M of head helps a little.

You'll figure it out. You always do!

See ya!

Craig (in Dhahran).

 

http://sillyrabbitmotorsport.com/996-turbo-fuel-system

Talk to Sean, he might have some ideas and he also has a new brushless pump that can be run via PWM and flows a ton. His stuff is pretty well done and you really just need hanger and pumps. Since you're car isn't a turbo you don't have to sweat siphon tubes either. He's got a 997 he's considered putting an LSx in ;-)

 

hey craig , thanks for the input . currently I'm running 2 -6 lhard lines from both saddles of the tank running in to a y in the bottom of the tank then going up via a -8 line from the y to the bulkhead connector on the top of the tank and then to the pump .
I chose -8 since it was the most convenient and it fits well - if I need to I will change it to a -10 .

at first I thought that might be the problem , but I thought I should go with the easiest , cheapest fixes first; so I changed the filter and I did fill the tank up to full but with no luck .

BLKMGK , thanks for the link ,,,, but I do have a twin turbo Porsche I ditched the stock siphon crap in favor of the more simple setup I have now.


on a side note , i got an AEM 380 external pump ( basically the same size and shape as the bosch but with slightly different fittings and more flow ) and installed it last night and so far the results look promising ( can't floor it for too long since the car starts sliding all over the place once boost kicks in - having no AWD and our streets don't help at all ). so far i managed to glance at the pressure gauge and it never dropped below 68 is i guess ( used to drop to 30 psi!) . i have to find a decent street and giv it a proper test .

I'm also not a big fan of the check valve AEM put in the outlet fitting of their pump,,,, seems very restrictive , so i have to change that out to a regular free flow fitting later.

i also noticed that the car sits a bit lower in the back now , probably because of the extra weight of the turbos, manifolds and intercoolers ; which makes the rear squat a bit and gives a bit more negative camber . this is good if I'm going road racing , but i need all the traction i can get , so i should take it in for an alignment especially since I'm planning on getting a new set of tires for it.

 

As always, very nice work.

 

time for an update

finally got to put it back on the dyno again.
first off the AEM pump was kinda doing its thing , fuel pressure never dropped below 55 psi , although it needed to be something around 70psi at WOT. I'm not worried about that now since it still has that restrictive check valve in the outlet, I'm sure the pressure will be ok as soon as I remove that valve and replace it with a straight through fitting.

well on to the stuff you guys want to know ,,, but before that I just wanted to let you know I didn't take the car to get the rear alignment yet

so what did it make on the dyno at 14 psi and pump gas???



not to shabby for a daily driver off course there has to be some bad news in there ,,,, apparently the stock clutch has its limits I guess , some where around 600whp or less , since the dyno graph was showing horse power dropping off top end while boost was also dropping , couple that with how fast the engine revs to the rev limiter and the face that the car made more horse power when the it was dialed down ( less timing and richer AFR ) , which means the clutch was holding at lower hp levels but when turned up it slipped.

here is a graph I managed to take of one of the runs ; boost is at the bottom :




all of that was confirmed when I stuck the front driveshaft back in to the car and took it for a spin , the added load immediately showed how bad the clutch was spinning - at around 4500 rpm in 4th the rpm would shoot up .
I couldn't notice it when it was 2wd because the car would loose traction before the clutch would slip and there wouldn't be much load on it then.


any how I'm just giddy with joy right now , knowing this thing has 700+ AWDRWHP in it as soon as I iron out all the bugs . it drives great and pulls in every gear - including 6th ! I just can't wait to get this thing done so I can start picking on some other cars

so next up on the to do list :

- install a better clutch
- remove the one-way valve in the fuel pump
- rear alignment
- new tires
- retune and maybe do a race gas tune
- charge the AC system

 

Guess you found out how much your 'fuse' was rated for! Time for a higher rated fuse Awesome progression on the build, just waiting for those finished videos.

 

loool, come to think of it ,,,, I never did take any videos lately

 

I guess its time for an update ,,,
I did get around to changing the clutch to the one I got from Kennedy engineering. at first I was a bit skeptical thinking that the stock clutch was a twin disk setup ( don't know why I was thinking that ) , but when I took the old one out I found out it was a single disk unit ,,, which meant I felt a bit more comfortable putting the Kennedy unit in since they said that it should hold quite a bit more than the stocker.

I also managed to fix the driver side headlight , It had a bad ballast/ transformer which I just changed ,,,, and now I have two working headlights, all be it one yellowish in color and the other more blue - I changed the bulb a while back thinking It was the culprit and never knew what the original color was

and for some reason the dash lights are all on now . it seems in the re-install process I may have forgotten to connect a ground or something. and my rpm gauge doesn't work either due to a faulty sensor. so if anyone would like to give me suggestions why my gauge lights are not working as well as my oil pressure gauge and horn please chime in

so after all that I put a few miles on the clutch to brake it in and then I took the front driveshaft off to take the car to the dyno .

happy to say I overshot my goals


off course this brought in a new set of issues

first off I don't want it to be that powerful ( can't believe I'm saying that ! ) , 18 psi and climbing is a bit high for what I want . I have to bring it down to a more pump gas friendly 15-16 psi , this way I save the heads and gaskets from getting lifted , plus gives me a good buffer timing wise to take into account varying grades of pump gas.

the other issue is at this power level it was at the limit of the fuel system if not over it , fuel pressure would climb with boost then drop down to 50 psi at the top end , and my injectors were at - get this- %150 duty cycle !!

so now I have to add another fuel pump in parallel to the one already there and get a set of bigger injectors ( I think the ones on there are somewhere between 60 to 75 lbs/hr - not sure since they were taken off my mustang ) , I'm thinking anything over 85 lbs/hr should do the trick .

other than that I'm a happy camper

the plan now is to loosen the adjustment rods on the waste gates to turn the boost down a bit , install the second pump and plumb it , and mess with the wiring to see why I have all the dash lights on

 

KILLER!!

Lets see some vids of it butthurting stuff on the street now

 

Pure. Awesomeness.

 

Awesome work Masha'Allah V

 

badass man! i've been silently watching this build for a couple years. nice work!

 

thanks for the kind words ,,, I will update this soon but first I have to take care of an issue I'm having with procharger and how they screwed me over regarding my mustan's F2 ,,,, as soon as that is taken care of I think you will see a lot more turbos in my future !

 

Subb'd in for vids! Amazing build!

 

subscribed

 

Holy cow, that is amazing! Very nice build. Sounds great as well.