Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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2001 porsche 996 ls1 conversion

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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 11:04 AM
  #141  
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the cool thing is it is '01 model so its not as complicated as the newer ones ( where you have to have a degree in nuclear physics and be a member of MENSA just to change the battery )
as for the seperate OBD ports that is definatly what i will be doing . the engine will have its own standalone harness and port , and the car will retain its own harness and port . the only place where the porsche harness will touch the ls engine is where it needs to get info like oil pressure , temp , etc. and even then it would most likely use porsche sensors adapted to fit on the engine.

funny thing is i found a place that makes a box that converts CAN signals to traditional , but i need the opposite to use the stock guages.
http://sailesmarketing.com/all-produ...us-interfaces/
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 03:55 AM
  #142  
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some pics of audi 6 speed front wheel drive only trans , good to 360 ft/lbs torque. found in a5 2.7tdi. maybe good for porsche swaps. especially boxster.
first two is an automatic a5. third pic is 6mt.
Attached Thumbnails 2001 porsche 996 ls1 conversion-0b2-1.jpg   2001 porsche 996 ls1 conversion-0b2.jpg   2001 porsche 996 ls1 conversion-a5-2.7tdi.jpg  

Last edited by r8dream; Apr 5, 2010 at 02:08 PM.
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 05:05 PM
  #143  
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dude i dont belive it , it is actuly coming together , gooooood luck bro , i hope to see it running soon , and kiking some *** at ream track , with the porsche club guys
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 01:38 AM
  #144  
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incase you guys are wondering ,,, this is the guy (sultan) who found the car for me


not much going on right now , i took the center console , shifter mechanisim , and E-brake cable all out , i also took out the stero and cd changer , and the climate control unit , and i'm in the process of removing the dash in anticipation for the new pedal assembly ( it comes as a whole peice connected to the bracing behind the dash .

the headers also should be here today and that (along with getting the stock exhaust ,,,, which i did not )should get me rolling again on mounting the engine.

i was also contacted by LAdismantlers sayign all my parts are ready
http://www.ladismantler.com/index.ph...em&inv_id=2263
they should ship out monday or tuesday !

so , next up on the list
- remove dash (tons of fun right there )
- mount headers and mock engine in and finalize both engine cradle designs
- seperate the wires i need from the porsche wiring harness.
- figure out what else i need to do
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 03:24 PM
  #145  
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Great!
By the way, are you going 4 wheel drive? what transmission are you going to use?
Tons of pictures please.
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 03:57 PM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by 1dirtyZ
i was also contacted by LAdismantlers sayign all my parts are ready
http://www.ladismantler.com/index.ph...em&inv_id=2263
they should ship out monday or tuesday !
i beleive he is using this one
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 04:55 AM
  #147  
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well finally some progress to report
i finally got the damn dash out ! man is that thing a pin in the rear ! 10 gazzilion screws and then some !

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also vette shorty headers cam in today ! and might i add they are blingy :

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i put them on the mockup engine and started thinking about crossmember placement and exhaust routing . the headers fit nicly and clear everthing around them using this cradle .

the plan is to run them so they face towards the back of the car like so :

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and have a 45deg. elbow right after the flange so the exhaust becomes horizontal , then it makes a 180 deg. u turn towards the front of the car into a 10" muffler or bullet (wich will be horizontal too), after that the exhaust exits the muffler and makes an upwards sweeping uturn into another bullet or muffler that will be 17" long and sits right above the other muffler/bullet. after that the exhaust can either go straight out to the tips or i can run it into the stock muffler for more noise reduction .

another thing i noticed is that with this cradle i have no clearance issues between the motor mounting plate and the header, but if i go with the other design cradle (using the F-body motor mount ) it might touch or be too close to the header. so the solution would be to use the vette style aluminum pedestal and doughnut mount for a clean and nice fit.
i should have the welder back in a few days , so i can finish up this cradle and start mocking the engine and exhaust on the other cradle too ( don't ask me why i'm doing things twice , i don't know )

on a side note, all the trans stuff should be shipping out tomorow !

so , next up is :

- order mufflers and u bends for exhaust system
- weld up first virsion of cradle to make it officially finished
- strart tacking together the second cradle and see how everything fits
- remove pedal assembly
- figure something else to do while i'm there
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 04:54 AM
  #148  
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well a minor setback but not major i guess;

in my infinite wisdom i welded the engine pedestals to the hoop i made without double cheking pan clearance ( i went off the side of the block ) . i later noticed that the oil filter kicks out a bit and it would not clear the pass. side engine mount .

so to cure this i had to cut and grind the welds i made the engine mount plates ( the "L" ) and reweld them at an angle - basically a few inches away from where they were before . this was the best way to do it since it still gives me the room i want to run the exhaust .


and to further clear things up , i can not use the F-body mounts with the vette headers ( they touch ) , so if i am to go with the other design , i have to get some vette mounts and pedestals .

so i guess now i just have to wait for the trans and exhaust bends and stuff to show up so i can finish the bottom part of the car ( i know i 've been saying that for a month now )
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 06:20 AM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by 1dirtyZ
well a minor setback but not major i guess;

in my infinite wisdom i welded the engine pedestals to the hoop i made without double cheking pan clearance ( i went off the side of the block ) . i later noticed that the oil filter kicks out a bit and it would not clear the pass. side engine mount .

so to cure this i had to cut and grind the welds i made the engine mount plates ( the "L" ) and reweld them at an angle - basically a few inches away from where they were before . this was the best way to do it since it still gives me the room i want to run the exhaust .


and to further clear things up , i can not use the F-body mounts with the vette headers ( they touch ) , so if i am to go with the other design , i have to get some vette mounts and pedestals .

so i guess now i just have to wait for the trans and exhaust bends and stuff to show up so i can finish the bottom part of the car ( i know i 've been saying that for a month now )
Just take your time and have a perfect finished product it will be well worth it in the end.
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 05:20 PM
  #150  
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thanks, i keep reminding myself that i don't need to rush things , this is not a race car that i have to get done before a set date to make a race
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 08:06 PM
  #151  
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Should use a Mendeola Transaxle. They have 4-5-6 speeds all mountable to LS motors.
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 10:18 PM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by wicked st
Should use a Mendeola Transaxle. They have 4-5-6 speeds all mountable to LS motors.
they have to be rebuilt all the time and are not intended for street use
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 03:17 AM
  #153  
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that and they cost somewhere between 2 to 3 times the price of the stock one .
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 01:59 PM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by 1dirtyZ
that and they cost somewhere between 2 to 3 times the price of the stock one .
its only money
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 12:12 AM
  #155  
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very cool thread, cant wait till the car is finished.Great pics.
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 12:52 AM
  #156  
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Amazing idea for a swap... It looks like it will turn out badass
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 05:55 AM
  #157  
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Nice work. In for finished product!
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 11:21 AM
  #158  
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I continue to enjoy following your build, it's a great read. Keep up the good work, very interesting.
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 05:31 AM
  #159  
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well i have some good news and some bad news,,,,
the good news is that the transmission and other things needed for converting the car from an auto to a manual showed up ! :

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,,,, the bad news is that my worries about not being able to push the transmission further towards the front of the car became true.

it is so cramped where the transmission mount is that is almost impossible to push the tranny forward more than where it is stockbecause of how the coolant pipes are routed.
now i didn't think of this option last night when i was under the car , but i might be able to relocate the transmission mount further if i notch the floor pan and push the hoses into the recess therby clearing some room to relocate the trans mount . but that has to wait till i go back there.

any how , its a good thing i didn't weld up the mounts according to the measurments i had before . and guess what !!!??? i have to redo the cradle again !!
the reason for redoing it is that the oil pan will hit the bar if i use the stock trans location. here's what i mean :

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so ,,, the new mounts will be much simpler , i just have to get some 90 deg. bent tubes today and start chopping away .
after that is done and i'm happy with where the engine sits i will have to start looking into where i have to notch the rear brace ; the engine will be moved so far back that in order to run a water pump and power steering i have to clerace the brace a bit to make them fit . here is how the engine should sit compared to the brace when done :

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(don't mind my "air gap" oil pan )

the brace should be notched to about where the spot welds are in the bottom pic or where the latch starts in the top pic. , offcourse after notching it i have to run a brace ( most likely a tubelar one ) from one side to the other to maintain the integrity of the body.

and in another moment of "DOH!" i noticed that the AC compressor and mount i had on the real engine ( which i was using for measurements for accessory drives) was of an F-body ,,,, and the bracket and AC i am intending to use are off an LS3 ,,,,, which means the engine is going to be overall narrower than what i had annticipated,,, which means i can't cut the brace till i get an accurate measurement .... (man this measure twice, cut once stuff is killing me ! )


i should have the tranny in the car by tonight , and i will know then if i can relocate the coolant hoses or not. i decided to try and focus on the bottom side of the car first and leave the top part ( interior, dash ,wiring , etc.) for later till i can get the car off the lift . that way i can roll it out somewhere whare i can have more working room next to the car.
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 12:48 PM
  #160  
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Would eliminating the PS gain you anything?
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