conversion harness?
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Trust me, all it takes is a bit of patience, proper diagrams and time. The least expensive harness I have seen was $400 and didn't include everything I needed. I can read a lot of schematics for that kind of cash. I laid everything out on the driveway, set my schematics under a rock, grabbed a cold drink and my wiring tools then went at it. Honestly most things you do are removing excess wires. For my setup I had to add a few and change injector plugs but it was not a big deal.
Besides you have us to ask questions of...
Many of us traversed the waters alone. 
I'm sure I am not the only one who has discovered more available information after I completed the swap than I knew existed before. That just makes me smarter next time. 
dangit i hate u guys lol i was wanting to b lazy and just buy one but i guess ima keep working on it. but theres wires that i dont know what they r for and they are confusing me. and what do i do if the wattage isnt rite for the wires?
What wires are you unsure of
You shouldnt have to figure out any wattage or anything like that. Reuse stock size wire being 18-20ga. Use all 18ga if you're unsure, TXL jacket. Fuses should be stock size, you shouldnt be rearranging them or assigning more/less duties
lt1swap.com has a good walkthru for what wires are keepers/tossers in most conversions
You shouldnt have to figure out any wattage or anything like that. Reuse stock size wire being 18-20ga. Use all 18ga if you're unsure, TXL jacket. Fuses should be stock size, you shouldnt be rearranging them or assigning more/less duties
lt1swap.com has a good walkthru for what wires are keepers/tossers in most conversions
if you read up a bit on the 98 stuff, its a lot easier to tune and work with the 99+ ecms. as long as you are repinning anyway, tis easy to switch. either way though, keep at it. as long as you get your diagrams and read up, it really pretty simple, just a little tedious. lay things out on the engine, and you can hide the harness and make it look really clean. i'd never touched engine wiring before, and i had no troubles. just went through the diagrams, and started routing the wires where i wanted them. label every single wire end as you are removing pins, and as long as you keep organized with the labels its not hard. it'll run well and look better than what you could buy, and you'll save a ton.
oh ye3ah, and dont worry about 16 ga, thats not a problem. as long as its not too small a wire, you're fine.
oh ye3ah, and dont worry about 16 ga, thats not a problem. as long as its not too small a wire, you're fine.
sh*t i used 16 guage wires for everything. but does it matter cause im using the original wire on both sides of the lengthening. and im using a 98 harness and comp
yea it def sucks. but i found the wires that aren't pinned, pink and black goes to 02, black and tan goes to oil pressure, red goes to alt, green goes to engine temp, black/white and pink goes to maf sensor. so i found what plug they go to can you tell me where they go from the plug?
Red alt wire gets a 470 ohm resistor or a light bulb and sent to a 12v IGN source. Most older cars share this in with the fan fuse. Dont bother to up the fuse, it doesnt pull enough current to register
HO2 pink and blk are for the heaters. Pinks go to the emissions fuse (10A). Blk goes to ground
Oil level wiring gets deleted (pan 2 wire connector). Oil pressure is a single wire connector on the rear china wall and goes to your gauge
Green wire from the 98 CTS goes directly to your coolant gauge
MAF IGN is usually shared with the PCM IGN fuse (15A). Balk is ground once again
Anything else?
HO2 pink and blk are for the heaters. Pinks go to the emissions fuse (10A). Blk goes to ground
Oil level wiring gets deleted (pan 2 wire connector). Oil pressure is a single wire connector on the rear china wall and goes to your gauge
Green wire from the 98 CTS goes directly to your coolant gauge
MAF IGN is usually shared with the PCM IGN fuse (15A). Balk is ground once again
Anything else?
